Weigh Trailer Using 2x4/Bathroom Scale??? - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 11-30-2012, 05:25 PM   #15
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Yes keeping the weighed item level counts for something. For instance when determining t/w, the trailer should be level. So the same goes for weight athwartship. Practically, I don't think a few inches out of level in six to eight feet would mean much. A steep pitch would mean most of the weight on the downhill side.

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Old 11-30-2012, 05:28 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by Francesca Knowles View Post
This is starting to look doable... instead of a board I'm thinking of one of our aluminum ramps. That would be stiffer and lighter, but still at least 6 feet long.

Question:

Would raising one side when weighing shift weight to the other side, thereby affecting the accuracy of the reading? Is it necessary to raise that side to a height equal to the scale side?

Francesca
Kinda, sorta, not really. It will, but if you're trying to be that accurate, it's time to drive to a cat scale. It won't hurt to raise the other side if you want to. I'm curious to see the difference, my guess would be maybe 20 lbs.
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Old 11-30-2012, 05:41 PM   #17
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I've used short lengths of iron pipe between the beam (6/4 oak plank in my case) and the platform of the scale and also the brick or block playing the role of the scale height pier at the other end. Bit tiddly to get in place but I survived. Does give more of a precise placement. You do need to scribe a line across your beam at the three measured points at which you will place the two end piers (one incorporating the scale) and the foot of the tongue jack.

I agree with Jared on the CatScale. Don't think the side to side trailer weighing is worth the trouble over 10 bucks out of pocket one time. But it's your trailer, your toes, your ribs so you know what's of greater importance.

jack
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Old 11-30-2012, 05:44 PM   #18
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I've used short lengths of iron pipe between the beam (6/4 oak plank in my case) and the platform of the scale and also the brick or block playing the role of the scale height pier at the other end. Bit tiddly to get in place but I survived. Does give more of a precise placement. You do need to scribe a line across your beam at the three measured points at which you will place the two end piers (one incorporating the scale) and the foot of the tongue jack.

jack
While I agree it's more accurate, she's weighing the whole trailer. I know people have done it, but having a board resting on pipes, with a trailer tire on top, is a recipe for disaster, in my mind. If it was a tongue jack sitting on it, then it wouldn't be as bad, although I still skip the pipes (personal preference).
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Old 11-30-2012, 05:49 PM   #19
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As Jared says, the use of the pipe fulcrums should be restricted to the tongue weighing. If Jared's getting nervous, we ALL should be.

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Old 11-30-2012, 06:04 PM   #20
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Part of me is tempted to go buy a scale and check mine now, even though its torn apart. 2000 just seems light to me.
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Old 11-30-2012, 06:15 PM   #21
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Part of me is tempted to go buy a scale and check mine now, even though its torn apart. 2000 just seems light to me.
If you're talking about that Scamp fiver, I have to say I agree with you! 2,000 pounds seems light to me.

Per accuracy:

Since I have two ramps, I think my plan would be to put both wheels on the ends at the same time, the "no-scale" side propped on a board or something of the same height...unless I can borrow a second scale, in which case I could weigh both sides at the same time. I'd probably also raise the tug/hitch point, too, so it's all level- lynx levelers would work O.K. to do that. Or I s'pose I could just measure the ball height and be sure to weigh the tongue at that level.

I think the hardest thing is going to be backing the trailer that short distance up the ramp without the whole shootin' match skidding away on the shop's concrete floor.....

Francesca
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Old 11-30-2012, 06:23 PM   #22
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I just jack it up and slide the setup under. Much easier. I usually leave the trailer hitched up to the vehicle when doing so, also.
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Old 11-30-2012, 06:40 PM   #23
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Note that my post #8 prefigures Jared's ideas about jacking up and inserting the beam/pier contraption. Great minds--hhmmmm. Just be careful and really think about what Jared and old worrywart me have said about having the tow vehicle as an anchor. If you do the thing with two beams and two scales, don't worry about level fore and aft, please.

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Old 11-30-2012, 06:51 PM   #24
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Francesca,
Just wait for your husband to come home!!
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Old 11-30-2012, 06:55 PM   #25
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Francesca,
Just wait for your husband to come home!!


If you think things are complicated now...

Francesca
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Old 11-30-2012, 07:07 PM   #26
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Francesca, the feller in the Escape is right. Nothing wrong with thinking thru the principle involved and the method and apparatus required and sequence but a segmented scale like CatScale tells all for 10 dollars and a few moments off the ball. No smashed limbs; no worries.

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Old 11-30-2012, 08:14 PM   #27
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Seems like a lot of trouble and damaged back when a short trip to a truck stop and $10 to $15 would do the job. Here in Oregon on the rural roads where scales are installed many are active 24/7. I just drive onto one of them and read the numbers. I can mess around a weigh each wheel if I want.
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Old 11-30-2012, 08:21 PM   #28
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This might help Certified Public Scale Locator

or this CAT Scale Locator | CAT Scale

or this Truck Scales and Weigh Stations Locator for Truck Drivers and Trucking Companies at Truckstops

Sure beats hurting yourself.
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