what are easy ways to splice wireing - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 12-07-2009, 10:55 AM   #15
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The best way to seal wire nuts is to squirt rtv or similar into the nut before inserting the wires. Otherwise you have to do it the messy way and poke the goo in with your finget tip. Actually, if the splice is not outside, I wouldn't bother.
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Old 12-07-2009, 01:13 PM   #16
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I guess I also am clueless as to how any crimped mechanical connection can be more resistant to vibration than a soldered connection.
I'm not sure if this is really a valid criticism of any soldered joint, or just over-soldered joints.

When a stranded wire is soldered, solder is drawn up the wire (ie, away from the joint) by capillary action. Enthusiastic solderers are inclined to think that plenty of solder must be better than a little solder and so they get wires that rigid for an inch or two either side of a joint. I believe it is this sort of joint that is susceptible to vibration.

Andrew
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Old 12-07-2009, 01:32 PM   #17
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I have been totally converted to using these.
I have used these [b]Posi-Lock & Posi-Twist and they are great. You can undo and redo at will. They are kinda pricy but EasyPeasy and very strong.

To be honest I mostly use the crimp type, but given the chance I like these the best.
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Old 12-07-2009, 01:45 PM   #18
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Thanks for all the comments. I'll take this all into consideration when figuring it out.
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Old 12-07-2009, 02:01 PM   #19
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Look here for the ratchet crimp tool.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/disp...temnumber=97420
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Old 12-07-2009, 02:01 PM   #20
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Crimp Tool
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/disp...temnumber=97420
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Old 12-07-2009, 04:38 PM   #21
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i am with you Mike the posi tap is the cats meow http://www.posi-lock.com/posiplug.html
i have been using them for a few years now no problems at all with them
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Old 12-07-2009, 10:47 PM   #22
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I'm not sure if this is really a valid criticism of any soldered joint, or just over-soldered joints.

When a stranded wire is soldered, solder is drawn up the wire (ie, away from the joint) by capillary action. Enthusiastic solderers are inclined to think that plenty of solder must be better than a little solder and so they get wires that rigid for an inch or two either side of a joint. I believe it is this sort of joint that is susceptible to vibration.

Andrew

I think that is the case, but it baffles me how this is any different from a connector hanging on a wire.
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Old 12-11-2009, 04:52 PM   #23
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Another strong vote for POSI-LOCKS. They are top quality, use them and forget them!
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Old 01-13-2010, 12:50 PM   #24
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I'll be wiring up the whole trailer shortly, and wondered what people use to splice the wiring runs. For one or two splices, I usually solder the wires and tape them, but I'll be doing a bunch of this and was trying to see what else might be effective. I just read about Scotch locks, but I'm unsure if these work on stranded wires (should I use stranded wiring in the trailer?). I've wired up my house, but I just used the standard twist caps and I didn't think these should be used.
I have had trouble with every sort of connection except a good quality solder and correctly sized heat shrink tubing. If you get set up right it is just as quick as crimp connectors. Get a soldering gun like a 100/140 watt weller, a pencil iron is not suited to wire splicing, and of course use good quality electronic rosin core solder. The best part about solder joints is they are really cheap, if you use scotch locks or posi locks it can get expensive really quick. Wire nuts should never be used in this type of application. Most are not designed for use with stranded wire, they loosen with vibration, and they end up making very bulky and messy connections. Also when you use heat shrink tubing make sure you heat it with a heat gun and not the flame from a lighter, that burns the plastic and it can expose the connection.
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Old 01-13-2010, 06:05 PM   #25
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MILSPEC: Never solder AC wiring. Never "TIN" AC wiring.

I have soldered the DC wiring on the running lights using a "Western Union" splice then solder then heat shrink.

I posted the following in the fuse size discussion concerning inside the camper wiring. Note: The TopHat crimp connector can be used for both AC and DC.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------

Wire Nuts:
Using the proper wire nut and taping it to the wire once it has been twisted properly should remain serviceable without any problems however if you really want to do it right, there is a crimp connector that looks like a top hat where you insert both wires in one end and then crimp the other end and everything is contained inside the connector. The connectors are semi transparent with a copper crimp ring inside. Go to the Home Depot or Lowes and look for them in the electrical department. (See Site Below)

The rule for crimping is:
Crimp once. You never make a second crimp because the second crimp may loosen up the first crimp.

Crimp Tool:
The BEST crimp tool is a Ratcheting Crimping Tool, one that must be squeezed all the way down before it will release. (See Site Below)

WHY:
Because using a cheep tool that does not ratchet may not crimp all the way and you may loosen your grip and the tool may move and you wind up with a less than perfect crimp.

The Crimp Tool
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/disp...temnumber=97420

The Crimp Connector:
http://www.idealindustries.com/prodDetail....insulated_ideal

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