What have folks used to attach bubble levels? - Fiberglass RV

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Old 05-01-2015, 04:29 AM   #1
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Name: Bat Dude
Trailer: Scamp
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What have folks used to attach bubble levels?

Hi all,

One huge tip we learned from Byron while in Death Valley was to get the BAL single axle leveler. Unless the trailer is close to level the fridge does not work well. After nearly 3 months of living in it this was a main set up issue.

I just received our BAL leveler yesterday and we are getting ready for our next travel adventures with our 16' Scamp. I will use a long carpenter's leveel inside to make sure the traileer is side-to-side and front-to-back level then want to attach external bubble levels. How do you attached these to the gel coat exterior? Will silicone hold?

I assume one in the back for side to side by the rear stabilizers and one on a side for front to back.

Next we will tackle the power issues by investing in a generator and LEDs for off grid dry camping.

Conservation biologist specializing in bats. Now stepping aside from paid $ bat work and just Scamping, painting and mentoring students
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Old 05-01-2015, 08:27 AM   #2
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Name: Norm and Ginny
Trailer: Scamp 16
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We've never had refrigerator issues with our 1991 Scamp 16.

We have three levels mounted on our Scamp. One front center just above the belly band and one passenger side center again just above the belly band. We bought ours at an RV supply center and they came with stick backs.

Recently I found a center bubble level and mounted it on the front of the hitch. I use this level after jacking the trailer off the hitch.

Before we disconnect Ginny checks the front side to side level. If she finds it out of kilter she places one or two wooden blocks under a tire on the low side that I back onto. That level of correction has always been adequate, inexpensive and fast. We carry 5 wooden blocks, 2x6x12".

After side to side leveling we use the jack for front to back. The whole process really takes minutes.

Norm and Ginny

2014 Honda Odyssey
1991 Scamp 16
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Old 05-01-2015, 09:17 AM   #3
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Name: Borden and Carole
Trailer: Boler 1978 17' 4" Earlton Ont Model
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We have 4 levels one center each side and center front and back; like your block idea honda03842 ;-)
1978 Ontario made Boler
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Old 05-01-2015, 09:23 AM   #4
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Smile level and powered

Ours are held with 2 sided tape, hate silicone personal experience, has its drawbacks. Make sure the generator is sine wave or it will not work as well. 1825 Watts is the equivalent of a 15 amp fuse in your home. Most 2200 watt units can do this level of output well.
Have fun and stay safe.
1978 Ontario made Boler
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Old 05-01-2015, 10:41 AM   #5
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Name: Darwin
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Our bubble levels came with a peal and stick adhesive on the back. I cleaned the area where I put it with rubbing alcohol first then applied.
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Old 05-01-2015, 10:51 AM   #6
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Name: jim
Trailer: 2016 2ndGen Escape19 Prairie Schooner pulled by 2014 Dodge Ram Hemi Sport
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I'd invest in solar/leds and skip the generator.... the levels are normally self stick. Re;B@l leveler, go to the local pizza shop and ask for an old pizza delivery bag, the B@l fits inside on of these.
Never in doubt, often wrong
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Old 05-01-2015, 10:51 AM   #7
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Name: Gilda
Trailer: 2011 Scamp 13'
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We have had no problems with using a loose bubble level that we keep in the kitchen cabinet for storage.
The Gleeful Glamper
Gilda (Jill-da)
"Here we go again on another amazing adventure"
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Old 05-01-2015, 11:11 AM   #8
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Trailer: Scamp 13
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We just use 1 small magnetic torpedo level and rest it on the belly band where we need it. The magnet doesn't work on fiberglass or aluminium but the level sits right on the belly band and you don't have to hold it unless your moving the trailer. My gal is very handy and can read a level as well as I can. If I was dealing with it alone I would stick a big level on the front of the trailer where I can see it from the drivers seat while backing up.
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Old 05-01-2015, 11:44 AM   #9
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Trailer: Casita SD17 2006
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I only use a center bubble level in the freezer compartment. Had an old 1970 cabover that had a finicky refer that worked great when the bubble was centered, off a tad....not so well. Checked a couple of later rigs between frame and refer levels and they were never the same level. Newer refers are not as finicky but old habits work fine. YMMV
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Old 05-01-2015, 11:59 AM   #10
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Trailer: 2006 Scamp 13' towed with a 2005 Dodge Dakota 4.7l Magnum W/full tow package (over kill)
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Bruce, I have two levels that might not be really accurate attached to outside. They came with a double sided foam strip to mount them with. I leveled the trailer in my driveway with a 4' carpenter level, the a small single all direction bubble level on the bottom of fridge. Once I was satisfied with the leveling I attached two levels on the trailer one on the front and one close to fridge, both just under the belly band. Since the trailer was level all I had to do was make sure they were both level when attached.
When leveling I use the outside levels to get it close, then Anne goes inside and puts a small level in the bottom of fridge for me to finish leveling.
I use the Bal leveler first while still connected. Then disconnect the trailer from the tow. Lower the front with the tongue jack to about 1/2 bubble low in front. Deploy the rear stabilizer jacks, raise the front to level, again Anne is inside with a small level on bottom of the fridge. That's all there is to it.

By the way Bruce, it was really nice get to know you and Caroline a bit. Maybe our paths will cross again sometime. Happy Camping.
Byron & Anne enjoying the everyday Saturday thing.
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Old 05-01-2015, 12:50 PM   #11
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Trailer: 22' Airstream Formerly 16' Scamp
British Columbia
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Mine are all stuck on with two sided tape as well.

I have a 2 way bubble level on the the tongue of my trailer. Makes it simple to look at quickly before unhooking at what the side to side status of the trailer is, as well as fine tuning the back to back while using the tongue jack. Before I stuck it in place I did make sure using a number of different larger levels that the trailer was indeed level in all ways and then moved the level around to various spots on the tongue until I found a spot it would fit and read level.

I should add that although my fridge appears to be level with the floor and the counter above it - it is actually not - its out slightly so before I actually stuck the levels on the tongue I actually did adjust the trailer a bit so that the bottom of the fridge (were I also have a bullseye level) was bang on level rather than using the floor of the trailer to decide what was level.

I also have a couple of levels stuck under the bubble band on the side and rear of trailer - rarely look at them though as the ones on the tongue and fridge seem to be good enough at getting it level.
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Old 05-01-2015, 11:13 PM   #12
Name: Michael
Trailer: In the Market
Posts: 75
Hi, Michael here. I'm a newbie, don't have my trailer yet, and trying to learn. I reading this thread it sounds like getting the trailer level is very important - more than I realized. What are the important reasons it should be level other than comfort? Thanks, Michael
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Old 05-02-2015, 12:06 AM   #13
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Name: John + Linda
Trailer: Scamp 19
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Don't need no stinking level

Whatever happened to a can of beer on the counter - which ever way it rolls to - it's low. Adjust as necessary.
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Old 05-02-2015, 12:23 AM   #14
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Mike, it's not that big of deal anymore. The only thing in a trailer that needs to be level to work properly is the refer. As I said in an earlier post the newer ones can be off to some degree and still work fine. Someone posted once that if the trailer was comfortable to walk in that it would be fine for the refer. I'll have to try that sometime as my refer is an '06 model. Don't loose any sleep over leveling a trailer. Do it twice and it will be as natural to you as pouring a cup of coffee. Nothing about towing a trailer is rocket science, just good common sense.

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