Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 04-19-2007, 04:49 PM   #1
Junior Member
 
Trailer: 17 ft Boler
Posts: 18
Hello,

I am redoing the exterior caulking on top of the moulding on a 1979 Beachcomber we just bought. The old caulking looks like several layers of whatever tube the previous owner had opened at the time It's a mess. So any ideas on how to remove these caulking would be greatly appreciated.

What I am not sure about is what type of caulking should I replace it with. I'm just back from the Hardware Store and one tells me silicone, one tells me a mono ultra, one tells me silicone attracts dust and unfortunately I know only that I need an ivory color I am wondering what is the best exterior caulking I could use as I don't want to be redoing this again for quite some time. I am not sure of availability here in Canada but perhaps I can hit on something similiar to whatever is suggested. In reading past forums, people speak of butyl ?????????????? what is that.

Also I need to recaulk the windows (the glass to the aluminum frame) also, what is the best type caulking to use for that process....???????Any help is greatly appreciated...

Thanks in advance to everyone for your help...
__________________

__________________
LeeAnne is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-19-2007, 05:16 PM   #2
Senior Member
 
Myron Leski's Avatar
 
Name: Myron
Trailer: 19' Escape
New Mexico
Posts: 531
Registry
Many wise posts have addressed this topic. Your best move is to do a search on it. For me a butyl based caulk is the way to go. Like what auto guys use to seal windshields. Silicone does a poor but short term job. I suggest avoiding all silicone based caulks.

A hair driier works well to soften and remove old caulking.
__________________

__________________
Myron Leski is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-19-2007, 06:20 PM   #3
Senior Member
 
Donna D.'s Avatar
 
Name: Donna D
Trailer: Escape 5.0 TA, 2014
Oregon
Posts: 21,817
Have we got a topic for you..click: Butyl Tape, Silicone and sealing

As far as getting the old stuff off, try a plastic knife, a plexiglass ice scrapper..your fingernails..I found my thumbnails work the best. And be patient..it's not difficult, just time consuming! But you need to get the old stuff off in order for the new stuff to do it's job properly. Stacking gobs of caulk on top of old gobs of caulk just makes a mess.

As a hint, for a neat even line...mask off the area around where you want the caulk to go/flow. I've found without masking, my caulk job looks like I put it on with a wide paint brush! The stuff Per recommends in the above topic is good...but it's extremely sticky and flows on like marshmellow cream. Masking the area really helped.
__________________
Donna D.
Ten Forward - 2014 Escape 5.0 TA
Double Yolk - 1988 16' Scamp Deluxe
Donna D. is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-20-2007, 10:03 AM   #4
Senior Member
 
Carol H's Avatar
 
Name: Carol
Trailer: 92 16 ft Scamp
British Columbia
Posts: 8,717
Registry
Quote:
Have we got a topic for you..click: Butyl Tape, Silicone and sealing

As far as getting the old stuff off, try a plastic knife, a plexiglass ice scrapper..your fingernails..I found my thumbnails work the best.
I have just spent the last 5 days removing a **really** bad silicone caulking job from the belly band of the Scamp. I have no finger nails left! I also took off the smeared caulking from around a few caps. Took off all the old caps to replace and was glad to see that most of the caps had no caulking.

The reason for the caulking on the bellband in the first place is unknown and the subject of a debate here as to replaced or not replace. I understand that leaks would be rare in this area but at the same time I understand that Scamp does on the new units but a bit of caulking in. Having said that the question is if we do recaulk the bellband what type of caulking do we use? Donna what do you use?

I have read the link re using Butyl but came away unclear if the bellband would be a place to use it....

The local marine expert suggested something called Life-Seal by Boatlife. Its a combo of poyurethane & silicone. I am reluctant to use it as I want a small nice neat line and it looks like using ones finger to smooth out may not be an option with this stuff...


As far as caps go we plan on giving the unit a good wash down to look for leaks to see if the caulking under the few caps that had it was really need. If it turns out the caulking was actually doing something we plan to mark the caps for recaulking in the short term and when time permits do it properly by drilling out and replacing etc. But what to use for caulking in the short term?

Thanks in advance for any words of advise.

Carol
Carol H is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-20-2007, 10:45 AM   #5
Senior Member
 
Donna D.'s Avatar
 
Name: Donna D
Trailer: Escape 5.0 TA, 2014
Oregon
Posts: 21,817
I think the caulk around the belly band on a Scamp is mostly cosmetic. The belly band doesn't fit perfectly flush against the body...at least on mine. There's a couple of places that there's about 1/16-1/8 inch gaps. The caulk gives a finished look...and no I haven't replaced it YET...that's on the to-do list. And when I do, I'm going to use a caulk I used on my house (can't remember the name right off the bat ). It is warranteed for 50 years, remains flexible, is paintable and most importantly is good to use on fiberglass. I'll try to get the name by the end of the weekend (it's NOT silicone).

Someone has mentioned using the back of a plastic spoon as a great way to smooth out a caulk line. I personally haven't tried it, but seems reasonable to me.
__________________
Donna D.
Ten Forward - 2014 Escape 5.0 TA
Double Yolk - 1988 16' Scamp Deluxe
Donna D. is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-20-2007, 11:17 AM   #6
Senior Member
 
Carol H's Avatar
 
Name: Carol
Trailer: 92 16 ft Scamp
British Columbia
Posts: 8,717
Registry
Quote:
I think the caulk around the belly band on a Scamp is mostly cosmetic. The belly band doesn't fit perfectly flush against the body...at least on mine. There's a couple of places that there's about 1/16-1/8 inch gaps. The caulk gives a finished look...and no I haven't replaced it YET...that's on the to-do list. And when I do, I'm going to use a caulk I used on my house (can't remember the name right off the bat ). It is warranteed for 50 years, remains flexible, is paintable and most importantly is good to use on fiberglass. I'll try to get the name by the end of the weekend (it's NOT silicone).

Someone has mentioned using the back of a plastic spoon as a great way to smooth out a caulk line. I personally haven't tried it, but seems reasonable to me.
Thanks Donna would appreciate the name. I have used the spoon trick and it works pretty well on latex type caulking not so sure it would work so well on a marine or silicone type though...

Carol
Carol H is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-20-2007, 12:44 PM   #7
Senior Member
 
Trailer: Former Casita 17 ft owner
Posts: 1,498
Hey guys,

Use a Scrape Rite scraper blade. They work better than fingernails and they don't break as easily.
__________________
Morgan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-20-2007, 08:17 PM   #8
Senior Member
 
Trailer: 74 13 ft Boler and 79 17 ft Boler
Posts: 568
yep, funny thing about silicone....it doesn`t stick well to fiberglass! ......it also always leaks! .......and yet you would think that when you wanted it off, it should just fall off....Hmmmmm!....so if it`s always releasing and not sticking there must be something wrong with the way it was put on the first time.....I have very few problems with using silicone as a caulk and have used it for many years successfully......although now for want of trying something better, I use polyurethane caulk and if the area is properly cleaned/ prepped, like it should also be when using silicone, it is something else.......it`s even better than silicone, which I still don`t hesitate to use if need be.....Benny
__________________
Benny K is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-20-2007, 08:42 PM   #9
Senior Member
 
Mike Watters's Avatar
 
Name: Michael
Trailer: Amerigo & Trailmanor (popupish)
Indiana
Posts: 455
I've used acrylic caulk with good success on fiberglass. The main reason I started using it is that it's paintable. Very handy.

Also - for smoothing out a caulk line after you lay it down - fingers work wonders. You have to keep it wet however. If you've got a rag and a bowl (grubby one of course), you're set. If you keep your finger wet, the caulk won't really stick to it and it'll leave a nice coved edge. If you're going to be painting over it all anyway - just feather it out onto the flat parts.

mkw
__________________
Mike Watters is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-21-2007, 06:10 AM   #10
Senior Member
 
jrnutpaul's Avatar
 
Trailer: 1994 20 ft Bigfoot 5th Wheel / Toyota Tacoma SR5
Posts: 229
When using caulks a nice even line can be acheived with painters tape. Put the tape on each side of the seam, about 1/8" away, or just the fiberglass side if it's a window or belly band being caulked.

Apply the caulk, smooth it with wet spoon or finger or even a damp paper towel. After it has been smoothed out remove the tape and you'll have a perfectly straight line. (if your tape was straight)

Paul
__________________
jrnutpaul is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-21-2007, 09:33 AM   #11
Senior Member
 
Carol H's Avatar
 
Name: Carol
Trailer: 92 16 ft Scamp
British Columbia
Posts: 8,717
Registry
Thanks all. The trick of using a wet spoon or finger is the reason I am reluctant to use silicone as I have never been able to get it to smooth out well.


Carol
Carol H is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-09-2007, 10:08 AM   #12
Junior Member
 
Trailer: 17 ft Boler
Posts: 18
Quote:
I think the caulk around the belly band on a Scamp is mostly cosmetic. The belly band doesn't fit perfectly flush against the body...at least on mine. There's a couple of places that there's about 1/16-1/8 inch gaps. The caulk gives a finished look...and no I haven't replaced it YET...that's on the to-do list. And when I do, I'm going to use a caulk I used on my house (can't remember the name right off the bat ). It is warranteed for 50 years, remains flexible, is paintable and most importantly is good to use on fiberglass. I'll try to get the name by the end of the weekend (it's NOT silicone).

Someone has mentioned using the back of a plastic spoon as a great way to smooth out a caulk line. I personally haven't tried it, but seems reasonable to me.

Hi Donna,

Just wondering if you got the name of the caulk you used I went threw a whole lot of work on the Beachcomber then put on an acrylic caulk, won't use that again and it cracked within a week(they tell me at the hardware store maybe it was a bad batch. , after about ten hours of labor) . Am now looking for something that will work better.
__________________
LeeAnne is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-25-2007, 11:49 PM   #13
Junior Member
 
Trailer: Bigfoot 13 ft
Posts: 12
Hello,

I used a product I picked-up at my local RV dealership called ProFlexRV by Geocel to seal up around cracks. However, I recommend getting a ribbon of Butyl-caulk to seat any fixtures first.

G
__________________
GrahamD is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-26-2007, 10:26 AM   #14
Senior Member
 
Trailer: 1985 17 ft Burro
Posts: 134
When breaching the fiberglass shell for anything on our Burro, we first used gray butyl tape to seal the object to fiberglass, screwed it down, let the butyl oooze out, trim gently with razor knife, then seal all outside edges with 3M Marine Adhesive Sealant 5200. The fiberglass professionals that I worked with recommended this product.

We have used 5200 around single screws, around vents, around windows, around running and brake lights. Anything on the outside has a bead of 3M 5200 around it, like caulking in a bathroom.

It can be bought at our local Home Depot near the paint section.
__________________

__________________
D Shubel is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Boler - caulking the seams??? elgin Problem Solving | Owners Helping Owners 2 03-23-2010 11:25 PM
re-caulking roof Tom Byron Problem Solving | Owners Helping Owners 14 12-05-2009 05:19 PM
Cleaning/prep before re-caulking? Mel R Problem Solving | Owners Helping Owners 8 08-16-2008 05:59 AM
Best caulking material? TonyL Problem Solving | Owners Helping Owners 14 12-04-2005 11:35 AM
Removing old caulking Legacy Posts Problem Solving | Owners Helping Owners 9 06-28-2003 08:28 AM


» Upcoming Events
No events scheduled in
the next 465 days.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 03:31 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.

Fiberglass RV News Delivered to your Email!

Stay up-to-date with Fiberglass RV info to your inbox!

unsusbcribe at anytime with one click

Close [X]