What Year am I?

[Robert W.]

I THINK ITS A 76/78 SCAMP 13. WHO EVER HAD IT BEFORE ME, WELL, LET'S SAY SILICONE AND SOME KIND OF TAR CRAZY AROUND WINDOWS? STILL LEAKS. STRANGE WINDOWS PUSH OPEN ON ALUMINUM NOTCHED RAILS?? TINY ROOF VENT POORLY PUT IN LEAKS, AND I HAVE QUITE THE MOLD FARM GOING?? STOVE SEEMS INTACT. NO BUNKS. TOOK OUT TABLE, LIKE TO MAKE IT A BIG BED IN DINETTE AREA. REMOVABLE COFFEE TABLE IN FRONT OF COUCH TYPE OF THING. CAN ANY BODY HELP ME AS TO WERE I CAN GET A FRONT WINDOW AND HARDWARE FOR WINDOW COVER? ANY HELP WILL BE THANKFUL. ROBERT W.

[Raya]

Hi Robert,

Welcome! Say, I have one request: Would you mind using lower case when you type? It's a lot easier to read

I'm wondering if you have a Love Bug trailer (same general shape as a Scamp). The reason I'm saying that is that the Love Bugs had side windows that were one large "piece" that hinged at the top and opened at the bottom. In other words the window was like one large "awning" panel. Is this what yours has? Or are you describing the "normal" jalousie windows that have several "louvers" that all open out at the same time, one above the next?

Raya

PS: And assuming the front window is like a Scamp, the Scamp company in Backus, MN carries pre-cut plexiglass and the rubber gasket and lock-strip that goes around the edge. They also have several sizes of the window cover, and the hardware that mounts it.

[Robert W.]

Yes, the windows are like that. Not like the roll out type. So is there hope for this thing? I like the look. I can do the roof vent; is bigger better? For water I use a table mount water cooler/ with hot & cold water. ...still has sink and after market fridge. Most likely needs tires; been sitting a while.

[Raya]

Well, judging by reading about the fantastic restorations folks have done here, I'd say it's very unlikely that your trailer is "too far gone."

Of course that's not the same as saying that taking on a restoration project is right for you and your situation, but in overall terms I'd say it can certainly be done, with nearly any trailer (just wait till the real project people chime in!)

If you go here you'll find some photos of a 13' Love Bug (that are normally accessed through the home page). The taillight moldings might also help you identify whether it is a Love Bug:

http://album.fiberglassrv.com/main.php?g2_itemId=1850

Do you have a way to take photos of your trailer's issues? It's always much easier to do sleuthing and make suggestions if we can see what's going on (although folks will try to help in any case).

It sounds like the first thing to do is stop the water getting in. Mold just loves a damp environment, and even if you clean it will come right back if you have leaks. From here I'd say you should remove the windows and the roof vent, clean them and the mating trailer surface up (remove all old caulk and googe and use solvent to get rid of any mold-release wax, etc.) and then reinstall them with new sealant and fasteners.

In my opinion, you shouldn't need any caulk or sealants around the outside of the window or vent frames, if you've sealed them properly when you've reinstalled them, with caulk or tape under the flange (between the window/vent flange and the trailer body). I think butyl tape is easier to use, and is nicely removable when the time comes to renew it. You can get it at any rv store or order it from someplace like www.mcmaster.com. I think the tape with butyl in it is superior to the plain putty tape. Caulk works too, but is a bit messier to handle (something like a Sikaflex 291, for example).

Once you've got a dry trailer, you can start cleaning up the mold. A TSP solution might be a good start (although other cleaning products will work too). You might consider just going ahead and getting a good cartridge respirator now, as it will come in handy if you're doing painting, fiberglassing, etc., and then you could wear it against the mold if it's bad (might not be necessary - I can't see how bad it is or isn't).

I hope this helps,

Raya

Edited to add: Bigger can be nice for a roof vent, but you'll have to keep in mind that as you increase the size of the hole, you might need to add (more) support around the edges. One thing to keep in mind is that these trailers, while "tough," are really quite "floppy" (an inherent property of fiberglass), so you want to keep rigidity and "tying together" in mind. for example, if you took all of the "furniture" out of the trailer, but did not add any support, it would tend to sag.

[Roy in TO]

Donna D posted this link to the Scamp VIN decoder in April of last year.

Some one on Bolerama recently posted they had a set of boler benches available, they were in Nova Scotia. You can also buy replacements from Scamp.

Where in the world is Salisbury other than the UK? (I am geography impaired)

[Robert W.]

Salisbury is in Massachusetts next to Hampton Beach, New Hampshire. The inside of this trailer is the same as a Scamp but the windows are like the Love Bug. The tail lights have been changed. Like, grey elephants skin on walls and ceilings, blue checked seat pads like a plaid. Table connects to wall; fold down wooden table leg.

[Raya]

Say Robert, I found a better photo of a Love Bug, showing how the windows open. If you click on it, it will enlarge so you can see it better.





And here is a link to a few more photos showing the inside of this Love Bug:

http://www.fiberglassrv.com/board/index.ph...st&p=200202


As a side note, I'd read somewhere that the front windows on the Love Bugs open (a unique feature for a Scamp-like trailer), and now I can see how this might be possible. Look how there is a built out area of the fiberglass (similar to a Burro or a U-haul), so that the front window is vertical and not compoundly curved.

Note that if your trailer is like that in the front, the front windows that Scamp has would not be a direct fit. On the other hand, you might have a lot more options, such as maybe one of the new-style (flat), opening rear windows for the Scamps (you'd have to measure and get specs and such).

Hope this helps,

Raya

[Robert W.]

Those are the windows, and the front used to open. Oval window on door opens, but no build out on front? The window is curved to follow curve of trailer. I want to make an awning for this. Do they still sell the track that goes on roof for awning to slide into? None there now. Seems everything on this is riveted on; do you silicone the rivet first? Or are there special rivets with rubber washers? I'll try to take some pics. Never put any pics on a computer before, so we'll see what happens?

[Roger H]

Robert, posting photos of your trailer and detail shots of problem areas really help the folks here help you out with suggestions. It sounds like you probably do have an early Love Bug, but without photos we're all just guessing. Scamp sells the entire replacement rivet set for their trailers, and they'd work fine on yours, whatever the brand. They have a nylon washer with a plastic cap to seal the exterior. Many folks also use a dab of silicone to seal the rivet hole. Awning rail is still available. I did a Google search on Awning Rail and this is the first source I found. There are many.

Roger

[Raya]

I looked at (photos of) a Love Bug when I was shopping that did not have the front window build-out, so like Roger says, they may have introduced that later in their run (or it may have been an option, etc.).

Yep, it's time for photos! Bring them on, Robert

I would implore you to use a sealant other than silicone on the rivets. Future owners of the trailer (and possibly you, down the line) will thank their lucky stars. Some kind of caulk such as Sikaflex 291 or Vulkem would work great (both polyurethanes). I'm not sure if people use butyl for rivets, but I'm probably going to use the caulk for any that I do (that is, I'll use butyl tape with rivets if there are a bunch of them going through a flange, like on a window or awning rail; but caulk if it's a "naked" rivet.

Butyl comes in a caulk tube too, but it's a bear of a sticky mess that way. Sometimes you can't use polyurethane with (certain) plastics though, so I have used it in the past (probably no need for it on a trailer though).

You can also replace rivets with machine screws and nuts, if you're so inclined. If I had a trailer gutted (not sure if yours is that projecty though), I would probably tab in the furniture with fiberglass from the inside. That would be structurally stronger than any kind of mechanical fastener, and permanently waterproof to-boot. But I'm making your project huge here

Raya

[Pete Dumbleton]

The wall covering, Ensolite, is known to us as Elephant Hide! The tiny roof vent is suggestive of a Boler to me.

[Robert W.]

Still trying on the pics - not computer savvy??? Cold here now, and lots of condensation on inside roof - some mold. What about these stor-dry fans I've read in other posts; were to buy? Would it work? Do you leave it on all the time? I'd like to work on inside this winter? You guys and gals know more than me. This thing I've got is a mongrel; rear lights replaced with trailer lights? When I drove it home, it thumped, like on a concrete highway: ba-domp ba-domp, etc. I'm hoping it was flat spots on tires?

[Raya]

Hi Robert,

I posted some info for you on photographs - it's in another thread specifically on how to post photographs. You had asked a question there and I responded to you. Could you go there and then we can continue to figure it out? Here is a link to that thread:

http://www.fiberglassrv.com/board/index.ph...st&p=298558

As for the camper -- and this is without seeing it, mind you -- I think the first thing to do would be to stop all leaks, so that it is dry. So, re-bed or replace leaking or broken windows or hatches. Then get rid of the mold, and provide air flow in a dry trailer to keep it from coming back. Only then would I move on to other, more cosmetic, remodeling or decorating.

Raya

PS: You can paint the Ensolite (elephant hide) - many people have and there are threads talking about it. Of course whether or not you paint it, you need to get it clean and dry first. You can use a TSP (tri-sodium phosphate, available at hardware stores) and water mix, or other cleaning products. Member "Roy in TO" has a good thread on buying and cleaning up his Boler American. It was literally black with mold on the inside, and he has done a complete (in-progress) restoration on it. Here is a link to that thread (I love "before" and "after" pics )

http://www.fiberglassrv.com/board/index.ph...c=19930&hl=

PPS: The thumping might be indicative of an axle that needs to be replaced (although it could be something else too, of course). The axles are a rubber "torsion" type suspension, and when the rubber gets old and hard the trailers can tend to bounce. Of course the tires probably need replacing for sure, so you could start with that and see if it improves.

[Robert W.]

Oh, just got power back - ice storm here. That's sooo depressing to hear, "may be axles." In that case I may just sell it, if I can. Don't need to pour money into this thing??? Tires are one thing, but axles sound expensive? I'll take some pics and try later to post. Thanks.

[Raya]

I think people have had axles done for around $300 - $800 I think some of the variation depends on whether you know a welder or have a "down to earth" horse- trailer type place do it vs. an RV Center type place.

I bet in Ohio there would be lots of "practical" type places, so you might be able to keep the cost down. Of course it's a personal choice as to how much you can or want to invest in a trailer.

There are some tests for axles, but I'm not up on the details. You might try using the "search" function here using something like: axle test.

And it could be tires.

Raya

PS Glad you got your power back.

[Roy in TO]

Robert,
I just had a thought. Look to see if there is any evidence of a name plate above or below the front and rear windows. That might give some clue as to what it might or might not be. The Love Bug had a single plate (about 5" in diameter) between the entry door and the window held in place with 3 rivets.

[Robert W.]

Under 2 ft. of snow and ice now. Soon as it thaws enough, I'm going to rent a storage place to work on it. No tags - whoever had it changed stuff around?? Had the type of table like a Scamp; on metal attached to wall... took that out. I saw the video of Boler window replacement; hope to do that. Mine already has rock shield made of fiberglass, same as trailer. To replace window, I would have to drill out old rivets all around aluminum frame, discard frame and use the rubber seal as in video?? Try to get some pics as i dig it out.

[Raya]

Robert,

I just found a photo of a Scamp I took a few years ago but forgot I had. It has an interesting combination of windows and made me think of this thread.

I'd always thought the Scamps were neat, so when this was parked next to the neighbor's driveway during a big summer event, I snapped a photo of it. At the time, I wasn't aware of the various details of different models.

As you can see, this one has "Scamp" decals, but the side windows are the type that I associate with the Love Bug. Also the front window opens, but it's another "tilt out," and not a slider.

The trailer really didn't look like the sort that had been "fixed up," or modded, but I've never noticed a Scamp with these windows. Anyone else?

I wonder if someone added the rain gutters over the windows because there were leaks?





Is this what yours looks like, Robert?

Raya

[Robert W.]

That's it, those are the windows. Small vent in roof - mine was put in badly. Large oval window on door opens also. Question now is: could I use a Boler type window like that guy Kevin did on you-tube video? If size was right, I mean?

[Raya]

So maybe you do have a Scamp after all. I mean, it's possible the people who owned the trailer I photographed bought logos from Scamp and put them on a Love Bug, but it seems fairly unlikely, and doesn't explain the front window. Maybe Scamp offered those windows as an option at some point. It's unique, anyway

That's it, those are the windows. Small vent in roof - mine was put in badly. Large oval window on door opens also. Question now is: could I use a Boler type window like that guy Kevin did on you-tube video? If size was right, I mean?

I would imagine the basic trailer body is the same shape, but I would want to be sure about how the details were handled around the opening, since the trailer was originally fitted with that three panel window (seems like a neat window if it's salvageable, but maybe it isn't). It might be more obvious once you get the existing window out and can see the edges and measure the exact cutout size.

On the other hand, I think you could use the rubber/plexi style of window in just about any opening that was rounded at the corners; just that the exact length of rubber strip and exact cut of plexi Scamp sells might not be the same (but you can get that molding in whatever length you want).

Raya