Wheel bearing question - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV

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Old 03-12-2012, 06:21 PM   #15
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Name: Eddie
Trailer: Scamp 16DX
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Since you have a Compact II this does not apply to you but this information may help others. If you were dealing with an EZ lube axel your seals would need to be double lip seals. If you take your demension numbers on the double lip seal to a local auto parts store they will more than likely give you single lip seals. I tried to find double lip seals locally at several auto parts stores but did not have any luck finding them. E-trailer and other trailer parts supplier sell double lip seals for the EZ lube axels.

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Old 03-12-2012, 06:39 PM   #16
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Trailer: 2002 19 ft Scamp 19 ft 5th Wheel
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I use rubbing alcohol for all sorts of things (cleaning). Use it to clean services B 4 putting stickers or decals on, cleaning bearings, etc. Not 2 expensive and not 2 dangerous.

Have used Gas very carefully outside in a well ventilated spot.

Fuel oil, coal oil, kerosene and JP4 are more dangerous than gas because they do not disperse as quick as gas and the fumes go to the low spots (Hugs the ground / floor). Drop anything that sparks and the fumes ignite.

JP4 for those that don't know is highly filtered and refined kerosene. We used it in our kerosene stoves in Korea.

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Old 03-12-2012, 06:45 PM   #17
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Tractor Supply has a great selection of trailor parts.

I always take in the old part when purchasing a new one regardless of which store I go to because When you take your old part in you are sure to get the correct replacement. When you don't, Murphy will send you home with something regardless if it is right or not.

Tractor Supply Company - Stores by State


Walmart also has bearings on the rack.

Take your grease seal with you. It should have a number on it also.
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Old 03-12-2012, 07:06 PM   #18
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Name: Deb & Chuck
Trailer: Bigfoot,Trillum, Boler
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Wheel Bearings

Originally Posted by Denece View Post
We are up to ding the wheel bearings on our to-do list. The current bearings are good on one side and leaking on the other so we are trying to replace them.

Our question:
A; the ones we took out are marked KOYO HI-CAP JAPAN L44643R
We can't find any replacements with the R.
B; one of the caps has a 1/16 inch hole drilled in it, like maybe someone was going to install a zirc fitting. Should we replace that as well? (it's on the leaky side)

I know this will be a stupid question to somebody out there!
Thanks in advance for answering anyway!

Your leaking side is the seal on that side. To do a bearing replacement you must drive the races out of the hub. If you don't have the tools most auto shops can pound them out and install them. If the bearing races look good you can clean them with Brake-Kleen sold at auto parts. If the cones show wear that is the part with rollers in it. Replace the bearings with new ones cup and cone. The cup is the part that is driven into the hub. Always replace the wheel seals. I hope I have helped you.
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Old 03-29-2012, 12:47 PM   #19
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Name: Denece
Trailer: Compact II
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Success! It was a little hard to find the right parts but once he got them my handy hubby had no problem getting everything done. Only problem was he read the tire thread while he was waiting and wouldn't put the wheels back on until they had new Maxxis tires on them!

Oh well. They last for lots of. Miles!
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Old 03-29-2012, 02:18 PM   #20
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Trailer: U Haul CT13
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Could someone help me out with a link to the thread talking about Greasing Wheel Bearings? There was a great diagram and pointers to doing it yourself.

I saw it recently but can't seem to pull it up now that I want it.

Anything unique with a uhaul ct13?
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Old 03-29-2012, 04:25 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by Mouse View Post
........Anything unique with a uhaul ct13?
Your CT13 has automotive type sealed bearing hubs. You never need to grease them. They look like the first photo. Second and third photos are the guts. Very robust. You can buy a new one at an auto parts store with this part number:


Incidentally, the hub you see disassembled was purchased by the original owner (post UHaul) in 1992 and carried around in case he ever needed it. It developed a tight spot (maybe from vapor intrusion and rust?), so I took it apart to see how it was made. As far as I can tell, my CT 13 still has the original hubs.
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Old 03-29-2012, 04:28 PM   #22
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That is very cool!

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