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04-29-2017, 06:55 AM
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#1
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Senior Member
Name: Brian
Trailer: '73 & '74 Hunter
Oklahoma
Posts: 278
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Wheel bearings: never done it before
I removed the outer wheel bearing. This metal blue-striped ring with a rubber interior, that is a seal right? Should I remove it and replace it with a new one? Is there an inner bearing beyond it? Boy have I got a lot to learn.
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04-29-2017, 07:14 AM
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#2
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Senior Member
Trailer: U-Haul VT16
Posts: 982
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To answer your questions, yes, yes and yes.
Go to U-Tube and view video's on how its done.
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04-29-2017, 08:02 AM
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#3
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Member
Name: RandyB
Trailer: The BIG "O"
New Hampshire
Posts: 70
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Yup, if your gonna clean it you have to remove it, if your gonna remove it you have to replace it. I did the same thing the first time, note the number on it and ordered one day shipping on Amazon. I've never gotten one of those out without it damaging, there supposed to be replaced each time, that's probably why.
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04-29-2017, 09:53 AM
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#4
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Senior Member
Name: Steve
Trailer: 2018, 21ft escape— 2019 Ram 1500 Laramie
NW Wisconsin
Posts: 4,500
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NAPA sell the proper double lipped seal and the seal is Made in the USA so it is not a cheap Chinese knock off.
The seals are inexpensive and trying to save the old seal does not make sense IMHO.
if the seal leaks you can end up with grease all over your brakes ,
which is a much more expensive repair plus leads to an unsafe condition.
Buy / install new seals .
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04-29-2017, 12:40 PM
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#5
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Member
Name: kevin
Trailer: Miti-Lite
Washington
Posts: 74
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Yep, pack both inner and outer bearings and replace inner seals. Remember to resist the urge to over tighten the castle nut. When ever I find a hub getting hot i almost always find someone has over tightened it. You just want it to be snug so there is no slop in the hub and always use new cotter pins as once they have been bent and bent back they are now week and damaged. Always fun to play in the grease.
__________________
"Always look on the Lite side of life" - Eric Idle
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04-29-2017, 02:05 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Name: Charles
Trailer: Scamp 16
Ohio
Posts: 295
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Many how to vids on line. Scamp web page as well
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04-29-2017, 03:19 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Trailer: 2002 19 ft Scamp 19 ft 5th Wheel
Posts: 3,640
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Look at the old grease to see if there are any shinny particles as that is one indication of wear. Look the bearings over really well to see if they all look good. If you notice something that looks worn or different from the rest, then you might want to put in new bearings. Grease: I like to use the Red grease and it can be purchased at auto parts stores either in a tube for a grease gun or a can for non grease can use.
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04-30-2017, 02:11 AM
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#8
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Senior Member
Name: Peter
Trailer: G30 Elite Class C
British Columbia
Posts: 1,510
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Darwin Maring
Look at the old grease to see if there are any shinny particles as that is one indication of wear. Look the bearings over really well to see if they all look good. If you notice something that looks worn or different from the rest, then you might want to put in new bearings. Grease: I like to use the Red grease and it can be purchased at auto parts stores either in a tube for a grease gun or a can for non grease can use.
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:as a old car guy you can buy a tool to help you grease your bearings, or use your hand but first remove it all and clean with paint thinners, turpentine, or what ever anyone else uses once clean do as the other fellow said check everything carefully, do not play with using the old seal, (to get the seal out easy turn it around and use long thin punch and hit the edge with a hammer it will pop out fairly easily by doing this though u might have to hit a bit on each side but it will come out this part u want to make sure you replace) if the bearing looks good then use the tool I told you about as Napa sells them to, or use your hand by placing the grease into the palm of your hand (messy job) now you take the bearing and U put it on a 45*angle and start by turning it into the grease and make sure the grease is being forced into it and when you see the grease working through then you know the system your using is working. Once all done then clean your hands with thinners to cut the grease and wash with soap and water. Now you put it all back together the way the other fellow told you and he is right don't tighten the nut just tighten firm with your hands and use the new cotter Pin.
Stude
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04-30-2017, 05:03 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Name: Brian
Trailer: '73 & '74 Hunter
Oklahoma
Posts: 278
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stude
:make sure the grease is being forced into it and when you see the grease working through then you know the system your using is working.
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I think I got it right. Thanks for the details. The hardest part for me was seating the grease seal. I hope I didn't leave the crown nut too loose, but the hub doesn't wobble when I grasp the edges with both hands and try to move it in and out or side to side. I'm going to call this a success. Thanks friends.
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04-30-2017, 05:09 PM
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#10
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Senior Member
Name: Brian
Trailer: '73 & '74 Hunter
Oklahoma
Posts: 278
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... and that red grease looks like the inside of a jelly donut. Can you imagine?
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05-09-2017, 03:43 PM
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#11
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Senior Member
Trailer: No Trailer Yet
Posts: 721
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Brian.
The raceway on the inner bearing has a condition called "fretting". I've seen it on 6 sets of bearings I've removed from my Casita.
Glad to see I'm not alone but it can be bad. Here's one site with pictures.
Fretting | NSK
A good description.
Fretting Wear in Lubricated Systems
Joe
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