Where to run the 7-pin wires? - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 11-23-2015, 10:18 AM   #15
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Name: RogerDat
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Extra wire is a "Pull Wire" not necessarily for actual use. It is left loose running through the route you run your wires behind cabinets or under seats.


You use electrical tape to attach a new or replacement wire to the "pull wire", then pull the new wire through until you pull 2x the new wire length you need at the end location. Then you re-tape the pull wire on the new wire and use the new wire to pull the "pull wire" back through using the extra length of the of new wire.


You end up with a new wire at the location you are pulling to, and the original "Pull Wire" end back at your junction box for use next time you want to pull a wire behind the cabinets and under the seats all the way to the back.


Means if the blue wire to the breaks you use your pull wire to pull through a new blue wire. Need a new brown wire then pull a new brown wire. Use the extra of the new wire to draw your "fish" or "pull" wire back to the junction box so it is ready for next time.
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Old 11-23-2015, 10:59 AM   #16
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Thank you for that excellent suggestion, RogerDat. It took me a couple of times of reading to get the picture, but I finally did! Very clever.

Bob in Mb, I will be putting in a converter. And, I will use it for the internal lighting. I can't imagine that there is any point at which the 7-pin is tied into this system, except maybe the 12V charging wire? I'd have to take another look at my notes which are currently at home. Please, correct me if I am wrong.
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Old 11-23-2015, 11:19 AM   #17
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OK... As an example, about a year after finishing the interior of my Hunter, I wanted to add a porch light to the left of the door. I just fished out the ends of 2 of 4 extra wires I have left in place between the left dinette seat area (where I installed a PD-4045 Power Center) and the back wall under the kitchen sink, and powered the light with those wires. A year later I added a second water pump under the sink for an outside fresh water supply, and I used one more of the 2 remaining wires for that and shared the ground with the porch light. Of course both were separately fused when attached to the converter/battery.
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Old 11-23-2015, 11:33 AM   #18
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Thank you, Bob. I will keep that in mind when I start working on the interior wiring.

Sometimes it is so confusing to keep this wiring information straight since there are basically two different systems in this one little trailer. And it sometimes takes me two or three readings to sort out which comments go with which. So, please bear with me if I ask clarifying questions.
All ya'll are such a mine of information and experience!
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Old 11-23-2015, 01:48 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by Lora View Post
Thank you, Bob. I will keep that in mind when I start working on the interior wiring.
Sometimes it is so confusing to keep this wiring information straight since there are basically two different systems in this one little trailer. And it sometimes takes me two or three readings to sort out which comments go with which. So, please bear with me if I ask clarifying questions.
All ya'll are such a mine of information and experience!
You got it, guess we should have said 2 systems before. The 7 pin powers the running/brake lights and power to the power center to charge the house battery while towing, that's it for that system. All interior lights and such are run off the house battery. The extra wires (?) are only inside.
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Old 11-23-2015, 02:31 PM   #20
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Personally most issues with trailer wiring comes from faulty grounds.

For me I run individual ground wires from one junction point for each circuit. From your junction box I would run a ground wire to the right turn/brake light assembly. Another ground to the Left turn assembly. A separate ground to the 12 volt side of the fridge etc.

Every frustrating 12 volt DC issues were caused by wires spliced together like a tree branch or from everything running a ground to the frame using the frame as a common ground point. Things get old, exposed and corroded.

This costs more money but 10 years from now if you have issues you have a single wire run to sort out rather than 1 main branch circuit with 10 different splices and /or scotchlock connectors.

When I put my load center in for 12 volt dc I ran one pair of wires to each item. One ground and one power and one fuse. This way when the trailer goes to someone else and they blow a fuse its a simple easy fix effecting no other circuits.

Just remember to label both ends of the wire runs. I am not getting any younger and anything I can do now not to have to fight with later when my memory gets worse and life much more frustrating is a good investment.
Barring an accident this 30 year old trailer will out live me so a little extra effort will pay off for someone.
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Old 11-23-2015, 04:11 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by Lora View Post
Thank you for that excellent suggestion, RogerDat. It took me a couple of times of reading to get the picture, but I finally did! Very clever.

Bob in Mb, I will be putting in a converter. And, I will use it for the internal lighting. I can't imagine that there is any point at which the 7-pin is tied into this system, except maybe the 12V charging wire? I'd have to take another look at my notes which are currently at home. Please, correct me if I am wrong.
Yes, your charging wire from the 7 pin will have to go to the battery/converter as well as a bonding wire from the TV's ground in that bundle to your ground buss/battery (-) side. As mentioned, bad grounds are the things that generate problems. ALSO: Use quality crimp-on terminals and splices for you wiring and get a pressure crimper (not the pliers kind) for crimping. Cheapo wire terminals are well know for becoming loose terminals, sometimes within weeks of installation.

And wire nuts and Scotch-Locs, fergetit.....
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Old 11-23-2015, 04:46 PM   #22
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You have not mentioned whether you will have a battery in the camper.
We do not have a battery in the camper we use the vehicle battery if we need to use 12V and have a small solar charger if we kill the battery or are staying for a while. We have LED lights and that is all the power we use if at a non-electrical site , so power consumption is very limited.
In any case all your interior wiring will begin at the converter.
Your tail lights , turn signals , running lights , brake lights , and brake controler will run directly from the source.
As mentioned before white is ground and black is hot on interior wiring.
Turn signal etc. color code will vary depending on manufacturer but white should be always ground.
Do not use 12V for your fridge when camping , only when travelling , it is a battery killer.
You converter should have simple instructions that are easy to follow.
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