Why you dont install laminate in a boler. - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 08-29-2007, 12:42 PM   #15
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If you got 20 min. I will tell you the story about the earwig that some how plugged the hole in my brand new bar sink taps
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Old 08-29-2007, 03:13 PM   #16
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Sorry 'bout the floor but how about a thread showing more of those cupboards?They look GREAT!
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Old 08-29-2007, 03:13 PM   #17
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Thanks for the cautionary tale. I am sorry for your experience. I was considering bamboo. Maybe not now.

However, I am really interested in the cabinetry. It's what I have in mind for mine but in a light Birch. On the overhead it looks like you attached to or perhaps veneered the fiberglass. Are the lower cabs custom framed -- or what? Anyway - it all looks terrific and I (and perhaps others) would like to know how you did it.
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Old 08-29-2007, 03:26 PM   #18
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Thanks for the cautionary tale. I am sorry for your experience. I was considering bamboo. Maybe not now.
While I 'm not a fan of wood flooring in this situation, the bamboo would probably be better (for water damage resistance) than the compressed and glued tree fiber which passes for "wood" in the base layer of the "laminate" floors.
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Old 08-29-2007, 03:33 PM   #19
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While I 'm not a fan of wood flooring in this situation, the bamboo would probably be better (for water damage resistance) than the compressed and glued tree fiber which passes for "wood" in the base layer of the "laminate" floors.
Bamboo is very good to use in environemtns where it might get water - kitchens, bathrooms
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Old 08-29-2007, 07:33 PM   #20
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Thanks for the feedback on the cabinets. I am a cabinet maker so i dont know if you would want to tackle this. All the cabinets and doors are made out of solid cherry hardwood. I had some floor left over from a job i did and decided i would rip the stuff down and make cabinets. I machined all sides with a shaper so all panels fit together kind of like tongue and groove. All professional doors in a shop are made this way for strength. I left all existing fiberglass cabinets in place because they make a perfect sturdy cabinet to attach your wood to. All the frames for the doors were screwed to the fiberglass from the inside of the fiberglass cabinet. Drill 3/16 holes through the fiberglass where all your wood framing will be attached. Hold your finished framework up to the fiberglass. Tape it on if you cant hold it. Reach through the framework door openings and with a pencil trace some holes on the inside of the cabinet where you drilled. Remove the frame. Drill a few pilot holes where you traced on the frame. Put the frame back on and screw the framework to the fiberglass from the inside. When its held in place with a few screws. Trace all the other holes on the inside of the cabinet. Remove frame again and drill all pilot holes in the frame. Make sure you dont drill right through the frame otherwise all your screws will show. Apply construction adhesive to frame and reattach to the fiberglass and screw it back on. after all the framework is done you can make doors and attach them normally because you are new screwing to wood and not fiberglass. So basically thats it. Do the lower front cabinet first. The countertop goes on afterward and all consruction is done as if it were in a house. Upper cabinets same. Make a finished frame first the size of the fiberglass cabinet. Screw your frame on from the inside and its clear sailing after that.
Cherry hardwood is quite light so all the cabinetry added about 40 lbs total.

The valance under the upper cabinet is a different story and was a real cow to make.

Heres a front view.
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Old 08-29-2007, 09:33 PM   #21
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All the cabinets and doors are made out of solid cherry hardwood
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