Window AC Mount - Fiberglass RV


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Old 08-25-2007, 08:40 AM   #1
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Hi,

My daughter has given the go ahead for me to use her window ac unit in the PP.

Decided the street-side side window (say that fast ) or the rear window will be the location.

I am not looking at a permanent install. More like Fredrick's easy in/out AC install. So, here's the question.

After surfing the various AC postings and pictures, it looks like a stand to hold the AC at window height will be the most workable solution for my needs.

The question I have is thus:

'm thinking of building support for the AC right into the wall below the window. Since I'm in the middle of a redo, I can make that area more load bearing friendly. Then would it be feasible to construct the outside portion of the AC stand like an L shape, so it will rest on the ledge when in use, but fold flat for storage/travel? Think a folding shelf on steroids. Bad picture, but like this:

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So two long legs to hold the AC up and in place. Is this enough to stabilize, or should I be thinking about a tripod?

Thanks.

Bonnie
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Old 08-25-2007, 10:23 AM   #2
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I don't know if it is feasible or not. The question is how much weight your window itself can bear. A friend of mine put window AC in a Sticky and he said the window frame was flimsy... I don't know if that would be true in your trailer or not, but I'd be inclined to support the weight on the ground, since you can.

But the truth is, I really don't know, and it may depend on the construction of your particular trailer.

Bobbie
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Old 08-25-2007, 11:20 AM   #3
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Quote:
or should I be thinking about a [b]tripod?
Actually, I would recommend that you think triangle. But you're on the right track.

Ask Lizbeth about her AC installation. She supports the shelf that holds the AC with a diagonal leg down to the belly band.
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Old 08-25-2007, 12:10 PM   #4
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Thank you.

Thought about the triangle. It's possible too. Should have described better the way the windows work. The screen is integrated in the window frame and I could pull it without much effort. The window will raise upwards more than high enough to fit the AC.

What I'm thinking about, is to add support framework to the back or side wall under the window to the ledge and then build an outside piece to support the protruding portion of the AC, I could keep from putting any weight on the window frame or wall. All the weight would be carried on the floor of the trailer via the wall framing and the outside legs. Does that make sense?

Bonnie
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Old 08-25-2007, 03:18 PM   #5
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Were it me, I'd just use a single adjustable tent pole outside, with a foot on it to keep it from sinking. You're only trying to keep 50-60 lbs from tipping, not support a safe.

Here's how one of the Yahoo Scampers does it with crank-out windows:

QUOTE
As stated several times, it is a 5 minute job to install it. There are two
Phillips head
screws on each end of the bottom window. When they are removed, the window lifts
off. The top window stays in place and when cranked out comes out to the edge of
the little 5k Fedders and protects from rain etc. A single six inch by 1/2 inch
board the
width of the window is held on the top flange of the A/C unit with a single
screw. The
A/C unit leans against the board and no other support is used to hold it in
place. Two
strips of foam rubber is stuffed in the edges and the unit is plugged in at the
receptacle
on the end of the sink cabinet. BTW, this is the installation shown in Scamp's
original
brochure and it is so simple and works just super today. Please note that crank
out
windows are shown.
END QUOTE

And here's how he does it with sliding windows:

QUOTE
Here is a quick and easy way to have A/C in the rear sliding windows.

On my 1992 S19 Deluxe, I had no air so here is how I set a 5000 BTU
unit in the rear sliding window: Took less than an hour.

The window is set to open about 15 inches and 17.5 inches are needed.
There is a stop in the upper left hand corner of the window that is held
in with a single phillips head screw. Remove that.

Then get your Dermal tool and several cut off discs (they brake easily).
Go outside and cut about 1/4 to 1/2 inch off the top of the center flange
that touches the top rounded window frame and keeps it from opening
all the way. Be careful to not cut the class as you go.

I now have 17.5" window opening. The A/C is 17.5 inches wide and still
won't go in the window, so I removed the A/c case and it fits fine. It's
a 99$ A/C unit so modifying the case gives me no heart burn.

Now I open the window set the A/C in the window, plug it in turn it
on and one more cool Scamp. Remove A/C unit, set it in the floor,
close the window and I'm ready to go. Even easier than the crank
out windows.
END QUOTE
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Old 08-25-2007, 04:49 PM   #6
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Were it me, I'd just use a single adjustable tent pole outside, with a foot on it to keep it from sinking. You're only trying to keep 50-60 lbs from tipping, not support a safe.


You got me on that one. Over engineering the solution again. I happen to have an adjustable tent pole which will work for the outside support.

Boy, I'm sooooo glad I asked.

Bonnie
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