Window Gasket Still leaking after replacement - Fiberglass RV


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Old 10-03-2012, 12:26 PM   #1
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Name: Ryan
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I recently replaced my front and rear plexi windows and gaskets on my 79 Scamp 16.

I "believe" I've done it properly, but the front window is still leaking. I used the proper size plex, Scamp gasket/lockstrip, and sealed the end seams at the bottom center.

I know I need to pull it out and do it again- but what should I do differently? Perhaps a sealant on the inner grooves of the rubber gasket?
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Old 10-03-2012, 12:42 PM   #2
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Ryan are you very sure it is the window that is leaking and not a rivet up on the roof area that is leaking - a leak will choose the path of least resistance and travel under wall coverings etc and appear far from the source.....
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Old 10-03-2012, 01:03 PM   #3
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The only rivets above that area were the curtain rod rivets. I removed those and temporarily patched the holes with butyl, they are not letting in any water.


The water is actually collecting on the top Of the top bunk shelf then spilling down the side, then all the way down to the floor if it rains enough.
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Old 10-03-2012, 01:03 PM   #4
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Leak

Can you see where the water's coming in?

In my case water ran down the front of the window into the rubber window gasket than under the window up the inside of the window and out over the rubber.

My solution was to seal the bottom of the outside window so water could not flow into the gasket. If this is your problem it's easy to fix.

I used a thin knife to spread the gasket from the front of the window and forced in a little 3M 5200. (I used 4200 but have been told it is permanent.)

One needs to be careful not to get it on the window. Has not leaked in more than a year.
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Old 10-03-2012, 01:07 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by honda03842
Can you see where the water's coming in?

In my case water ran down the front of the window into the rubber window gasket than under the window up the inside of the window and out over the rubber.

My solution was to seal the bottom of the outside window so water could not flow into the gasket. If this is your problem it's easy to fix.

I used a thin knife to spread the gasket from the front of the window and forced in a little 3M 5200. (I used 4200 but have been told it is permanent.)

One needs to be careful not to get it on the window. Has not leaked in more than a year.

Yes, the water is running between the gasket and the window. When I pull it back a bit you I can see the water in there. Is the 3M 5200 fairly thin stuff? If I can inject it with a medical syringe (type with about a needle) that could simply a potentially messy job.

I was wondering about using a sealant like that all the way around, but applying it to the gasket groove before the window goes in. It didn't take me long to install the new window- perhaps 45 minutes.
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Old 10-03-2012, 01:32 PM   #6
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I installed two Scamp windows into our Uhaul. Scamp parts sent some stick on foam like tape with the windows. I used it and both windows leak, I couldn't get the clamp ring to draw the window up tight. The side window, I pulled it back out, peeled off that tape stuff, put putty tape on the window flange, put the window back in and now it doesn't leak. I got some butyl tape that I am going to use on the rear window. So maybe your problem can be resolved the same way.
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Old 10-03-2012, 01:52 PM   #7
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Ryan,

The window only needs to be sealed the across the bottom and maybe an inch or so up the side.

I used 3M 4200 but I bet 5200 is about the same viscosity; the 4200 was thick but it probably depends on the needle size. The viscosity means it's not going to run.

It wasn't too difficult to do if you're patient, doing about a 1/2 inch at a time. I slid a thin bladed screw driver in and rotate it about a half turn and worked my way down. I used a second flat screw driver like a putty knife to force it in.

I believe 4200 or 5200 are designed to work even if water is present. I did nothing to remove the water. Both are available at West Marine or probably any boat store. I bought only a little tube.
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Old 10-06-2012, 05:47 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by Ryan P R View Post
It didn't take me long to install the new window- perhaps 45 minutes.
Please share your secret. I'm getting ready to try to install front and back plexi windows and am hoping that I can do it at all.

BTW - you can protect your plexi from being marred by oozing sealant by putting blue painters tape on the window first. Just leaving the part below the gasket exposed.

Thanks,

Cathy
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Old 10-06-2012, 09:21 PM   #9
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I replaced the front and rear plexi glass windows in my Lil Bigfoot.
I have had the leaking problem in the past with plexiglass windows that I replaced in Scamps.
I tried window sealer after the fact and other things and managed to mar the Plexiglass.
The Lil Bigfoot has window frames front and rear and the plexiglass is held in with rubber moulding on the outside.
I ran a fine bead of silicone across the bottom and up the sides about 3 inches before placing the plexiglass in the frame.
A small portion oozed out but after it cured it was easy to remove.
If I ever do another Scamp I will use the silicone in the rubber channel the plexiglass fits in.
There is a time and place for everything.
The silicone will will remain flexible, seal out the water and will not degrade because it's not exposed to the elements.
John
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Old 10-08-2012, 06:43 PM   #10
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Name: Ryan
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Perry- I think I'll do it that way real soon- getting tired of having more water come in with new windows than I did with the old ones!


Cat- no real trick, but I did use this special lockstrip tool. http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-47000-Wi...rds=Lisle+4700
Ad some slightly watered down dish soap applied with a paint brush as I went.

I tried the rope technique for getting the plexi into the opening of the gasket, It didn't work for me (although I probably did it wrong). I used some flat headed screw drivers to work the plexi into the gasket. The soap was the biggest helper, without a lube the gasket really grabs to plexi and doesn't want to slide past it to unfold.

The 45 mins claim did not include the removal of the old windows and cleaning of the window perimeter. The old ones came out qUick and easy, but cleaning up around the window opening took some scrubbing (grey scouring material) and peeling of old silicon (done with a rather thin and sharp old putty knife).
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