Window Leak_rear; Burro; Help; Threads? - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 04-05-2009, 11:58 PM   #15
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I took all my windows out of my Burro last summer, scraped all the prior gunk off them, painted them, and attached them again with butyl putty tape (grey and came in a roll with wax paper) and then covered the seams with proflex RV sealant. Worked like a champ. No leaks on ANY of the windows, even replaced the top vent without leaks. It was actually a lot easier than I thought it would be. I had small leaks before and they were driving me nuts.
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Old 04-06-2009, 12:15 AM   #16
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Like Randy, I redid mine two years ago using the same process. It would help to have an another person when you reinstall the back window, so they can assist in realigning the screws. I replaced the old screws with new. I did mine alone and it was truly a balancing act. The entire back window, removing, cleaning, and reinstalling took about two hours.
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Old 04-06-2009, 12:18 AM   #17
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Name: Rachel
Trailer: 1974 Boler 13 ft (Neonex/Winnipeg)
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I probably sound like a broken record by now, but I don't believe there is any benefit to sealing around the outside of the windows after you have done the (proper) job of taking them out and resealing beneath the frames. To my mind, the surface caulk will just attract dirt and be unsightly.

I say this coming from a background of re-bedding ports and hatches on boats, which pound to weather through water. They flex plenty and it's the sealant behind the frame that does the job.

On a less annoying note, I was thinking about the original poster's musing that the fiberglass around the window might be distorted and causing a leak problem. Although I can't say for sure, not having an eye on the parts in question, I would think that because of the relatively flexible nature of the rough opening in the fiberglass (in other words the shells are rather "floppy" until you get the window back in) -- and the firmness of the clamp ring style of window (which I think you have on the rear of the Burro?) -- that the clamp ring would tend to pull the shell into the proper shape when you re-tighten the window after removing/resealing/re-installing.

Raya
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Old 04-06-2009, 12:23 AM   #18
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i use closed cell foam tape. the same stuff that is used in allmost all campershell windows. its only sticky on one side and is super flexable. it dries out eventually (10 years) but its easy to replace. i used a silicone type on the front window in my camper shell befor i found this tape stuff, now i can never get the window out to fix it properly with the foam tape... but it doesnt leak at least. now i try to steer clear of anything thats super sticky in case i have to fix it.
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Old 04-06-2009, 01:08 PM   #19
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Hello,
I am starting to get confident.

Randy Dewey, what did you use to scrape with?
Did you use any cleaning agents or solvents?
Did you disassemble the window frames prior to painting them and what paint?
Unfortunately, the previous owner loaded up heavy layers of grey silicone around the frame, mostly on top. I may end up with a chisel or jack hammer in my hand.
In trying to remove some other areas of silicone from the trailer, I never have completed any one area. It is a real bear. I mean hours of trying and fingernail/tip weardown.

Raya L., I think your observation about the clamping type frame is noteable.
The main problem I see is that the two half shells are not perfectly aligned and this obviously is right at the center of the frame. Until I have the window out, I won't know how flexible the mounting edge is, but the offset of the two halves is probably in need of fiberglass or filler to even it out. If that is the case, I have Formula 27 which I have had good luck with before. Although, I have only used it on stationary objects in the past.
If I need fiberglass work, it sounds like you have some experience in that area as well. We'll see when I get it apart.

I will probably end up using extra layer(s) of the tape on the depressed side and tapering to fill any gap as suggested to me earlier, if I can get away with it.

Thank you again to all for your input.
Mitchell
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Old 04-06-2009, 02:15 PM   #20
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Trailer: Escape 5.0 TA, 2014
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A plastic knife and plexiglass ice scrapper will go a long way in saving your thumbnails. Neither will scratch the gelcoat... just don't use a sharp corner to "dig."
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Old 04-06-2009, 03:18 PM   #21
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Name: Rachel
Trailer: 1974 Boler 13 ft (Neonex/Winnipeg)
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Quote:
Unfortunately, the previous owner loaded up heavy layers of grey silicone around the frame, mostly on top. I may end up with a chisel or jack hammer in my hand.
In trying to remove some other areas of silicone from the trailer, I never have completed any one area. It is a real bear. I mean hours of trying and fingernail/tip weardown.
Now you know why I loathe it so (and it doesn't even do the best job in the first place!). I'm sorry you're having to struggle with it. Donna's suggestions are good ones. You could also (carefully) use a fresh, sharp, single-edged razor blade. If so, cut off the corner tips so that they won't "snag" and scratch as easily.

If your window frames are aluminum, I wouldn't rush to paint them unless they really need it. I say that becuase it can be a challenge to get paint to really stick to them, so they can end up looking rattier than before you started.

Raya
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