Window Leak_rear; Burro; Help; Threads? - Fiberglass RV


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Old 04-03-2009, 12:32 PM   #1
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Hello,
The source of the leak in the rear window of my Burro has eluded me.
I used duct tape first on individual moulding plexiglass interfaces and then progressed to plastic drop cloth on center section over slider and ultimately to the entire window.
When that did not stop the leak, I replaced the trim mould on the ridgeline since the old one's clips were rusting through and seemed another possible source of leakage. Once I got the old seal off, it did not appear that any water could find its way down to the window frame area through the joint.

Of course this leak is not possible to live with since it flows into the bedding area.

It would be a big help if anyone with the Burro or another sandwich design trailer could tell me how they solved the same problem (assuming it must have occurred).

I did see the water come in during a recent outing.
It came in at the lower outer edge of the window frame on the right side (when facing back).
There was also wetness in both channels near the slider's right edge which I could feel when I pushed my pinky in there.

I have been hoping not to have to completely remove the window frame to solve this.
If it turns out I must, I would need to know where to get the appropriate replacement seal.

Mitchell
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Old 04-03-2009, 04:31 PM   #2
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Mitchell, I'm not much help so I hope somone else chimes in here, but I also had problems with my Uhaul windows leaking. I ended up having to have someone reinstall them & they leaked even more. I found out some of the leaking was due to silicone. (even though I provided butyl tape). I'm going to have to call an RV person & have them redone. As far as the gaskets, I bought mine on ebay from Ray Horner who's is not selling there now. I know that Ray did recommend using white butyl tape for the front & rear windows on the Uhauls & Burros. Search this form in the archives for leaking windows & there is also posts on butyl tape. Also, do a search for Myron Leski, who has done a fantastic job restoring has Burro. Good luck.
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Old 04-03-2009, 04:43 PM   #3
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For a temporary fix, I bought several individual plastic silverware trays that are sold in the houseware dept. in Walmart. I stuck butyl tape to the long side of each of the trays so they adhere to the fiberglass walls. Two trays go under the side windows & three go under each of the front & back windows. Then I cut some sponges to fit in the trays. Seemed to really help, unless the wind blows the rain in at an angle. I copied this idea from a fellow Fiberglassrv member.
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Old 04-04-2009, 03:34 PM   #4
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PattyS,
Thank you for the response.
I will look into those suggestions.
I also had considered an awning/permanent cover, but would also prefer to solve the leakage first.
In the future, I would not feel good about strapping anyone else with this problem (even if they thought it were no big deal), and it is a big problem. The previous owner did not share this information with me. Go figure.
I suppose I could fix a permanent gutter inside under the frame and drain it through the shell to the outside, but that just seems like, why didn't I just fix the problem itself?
On the other hand, your experience with the leakage not being solved after having the window out and back in suggests that the openning may not be able to form a tight seal.

If that is the case, I would expect more owners chiming in here.

I do notice that the two half shells do not appear to be perfectly mated at the seams.
That could be a likely culprit as well.
Thanks again for your input.
M
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Old 04-04-2009, 03:45 PM   #5
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On my 81 Burro, I used white butyl rubber to seal the front and back windows, after removing them and cleaning off the weird gunk the factory used, Still If the slide window was not exactly even when closing it would leak as the seal was crooked. Also cleaning the weep holes stopped normal gutter overflow. Once they were even no leaks.

You might want to check out the holes for all the wires for the outside lights, I had waterfalls coming thru them. Again Butyl rubber tape sealed them right up.
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Old 04-04-2009, 04:42 PM   #6
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Quote:
[b]I have been hoping not to have to completely remove the window frame to solve this.
If it turns out I must, I would need to know where to get the appropriate replacement seal.
The most common source of window leaks is the tape putty between the aluminum window frame and the fiberglass body shell. As it ages it dries out, shrinks, becomes brittle, and cracks. The best practice is to completely remove the window frame, completely remove the old residue from both the frame and the shell, and apply new sticky "tape" usually to the back of the window frame, and reinstall the window. The original stuff was putty tape, is packaged rolled up between paper strips, and it is readily available in places where RV parts are sold. We often refer to "Butyl" tape here. That is a much improved version of the old common putty tape.

The second most common source of window leaks are the rubber gasket strips between the aluminum frame and the glass panes of the window. As it ages it also dries out, shrinks, becomes brittle, and cracks. The most common happening is for the rubber to dry out and shrink, leaving gaps between pieces (usually in corners) that leak. Replacing the rubber means not only uninstalling the window frame, but totally disassembling the panes from the frame. If the rubber is mostly intact, but merely shrunken with gaps between pieces (like mine was) squeeze a little bathtub caulk in the gap to "glue" the too-short pieces of rubber weatherstripping together into a continuous seal.

Click image for larger version

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You can see in the corners near the center pane divider where I put white bathtub caulk in the corner gap of the black rubber gasket.

Third source of window leaks are clogged "Weep" holes in the bottom channel. The black squares at the bottom edge of my window frames in the photo above are plastic "Weep Hole Hoods" which divert the water to drain down, and shield the weep hole from letting cold air in. The previous owner just taped the weep holes shut to keep the cool air out. This didn't allow the weep holes to let rain water drain out of the slider's bottom channel. If those weep drains to the outside are clogged, the water will overflow inside.

On edit: My windows had [b]ALL 3 kinds of leaks when I bought my Fiber Stream.
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Old 04-04-2009, 06:55 PM   #7
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Patty,

If you brought your trailer to a professional, and they used silicone to re-bed the window after you provided butyl tape for the purpose..... well, shame on them. Twice. Now you/they have a mess to try to remove the silicone (it's a bear to remove, more silicone will not stick to it, nor will any other caulks/tape) and then still go back and bed the windows properly.

Sorry to hear that happened to you.
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Old 04-04-2009, 10:43 PM   #8
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Hello Everyone,
Thanks for the help.
I'll check the weep holes first and then give a light sprinkle with the hose to test.

It looks like I will remove the window and use the butyl product assuming it still leaks.
Even though the channels have had moisture in them, I think the link may be running down around the frame due to that old cracking and shrinking seal mentioned.

I bookmarked that sight with the window glazing parts because my rubber is shrunk so much, I do not think the silicone option will work.

I am unclear as to the difference between butyl tape, and butyl rubber.
Which one should I use? Seems like both have worked.
M
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Old 04-04-2009, 11:43 PM   #9
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What do you mean by "butyl rubber" -- sheets of rubber? Or?

Raya
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Old 04-05-2009, 07:01 AM   #10
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It's a Butyl rubber tape, not sheets. Any RV place has it. You can get it online too.
I think it's around 4-5 bucks per rool. Roll was about maybe 20 ft or so. Plenty enough for all the windows.
Here a picture of the black version for clarity, the tape is separated with paper:
http://www.adventurerv.net/butyl-rubber-ta...ack-p-6703.html
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Old 04-05-2009, 07:34 AM   #11
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There are several kinds of Butyl tape. So be careful. Butyl rubber tape, as referenced above... is NON-TRIMMABLE. It's not what you want to use between the window and body of the trailer for sealing. You want the tape to ooze out when you clamp the window down and you'll need to trim it. You want to use Butyl putty tape.

Here's a link to from RV Tech Tips - It's Putty Time
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Old 04-05-2009, 03:40 PM   #12
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Quote:
There are several kinds of Butyl tape. So be careful. Butyl [b]rubber tape, as referenced above... is NON-TRIMMABLE. It's not what you want to use between the window and body of the trailer for sealing. You want the tape to ooze out when you clamp the window down and you'll need to trim it. You want to use Butyl [b]putty tape.

Here's a link to from RV Tech Tips - It's Putty Time
Oops, wrong reference sorry about that. Try this one
//www.rvwholesalers.com/catalog/butyl-putty-tape-13-0880x.html
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Old 04-05-2009, 06:19 PM   #13
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Hello,
Thanks again for all of the help.
I probably sound slow, but I can't let that stop me.

So just to try to further understand, is the butyl tape I want 'putty' like, or is it rubbery, squishable and double sided adhesive?

Here is a site that advertises butyl 'rubber' tape. It does not look 'putty' like.
http://www.pplmotorhomes.com/parts/caulks-...CFQ9JagodgnhNXw

It says that the black is non-trimmable.
I will have to call on the white to see exactly what it is.

I followed the other link from Donna D. I was not sure if the picture was of the putty tape or butyl tape.

As was noted in the article, I don't want to do this more than once per window.
Mitchell
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Old 04-05-2009, 07:14 PM   #14
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Quote:
Hello,
Thanks again for all of the help.
I probably sound slow, but I can't let that stop me.

So just to try to further understand, is the butyl tape I want 'putty' like, or is it rubbery, squishable and double sided adhesive?
Mitchell, [b]you want Butyl putty tape (which is trimmable, squishable and double-sided) not Butyl Rubber tape which is not. The article also referenced the "cheap generic putty tape" ... you want Butyl.
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