Window Sticker Shock! - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 01-10-2006, 04:42 PM   #15
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I have only removed and replaced a couple of the windows in my 1979 Boler B1700RGH, replacing the sealing putty, and it seems that the job was similar for Con and I. Here are a few notes about my specific experience:
  • there are no rivets used for my windows - the Hehr originals are held by an extruded aluminum clamping frame on the inside as Con describes for his replacement units
  • I completely removed the paper in the radiused corner sections (only) as I installed the tape on the window flange
  • I removed all of the paper before lifting the entire unit into the body opening, and did not find a need for any kind of support rig, but then I have not done the largest windows yet (just the door and dinette side units)
  • the white surface material of the lining foam (much softer than the Ensolite typically used in B1300's) stuck to the clamping frames and had to be scraped off - I had to score with a sharp knife around the frame then slide in a putty knife to avoid pulling and tearing the foam
  • I used two strips of butyl putty tape, which is actually a bit too much for the frame flange, so I had a significant excess to remove - I'm not sure if this is really better than a single strip, but I thought maximum area of sealed contact would be good
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Old 01-10-2006, 06:39 PM   #16
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When I saw the window prices quoted in JoyA's post (#5) my eyes got wide, my heart leaped!

Yeah, well, forgeddaboudit, buddy boy.

Just got an estimate from RV Parts Outlet.com for a picture window 18 x 46", clear glass, black radius frame: $444.50 including shipping. $540.50 for a slider.

Granted, this is custom built and cheaper than All-Rite Custom builts by several hundred bucks but .... there's got to be something more reasonable somewhere.

It is so galling to have seen so many low priced rv windows up on ebay ...apparently pulled from junkers or as cancelled dealer special orders being unloaded ....but none that will fit my Burro rough openings.
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Old 01-10-2006, 09:59 PM   #17
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Myron, start hitting the RV repair shops in your area. Some times they have wrecked trailers and campers out back that they scavenge parts off of. Keep in touch with them, you might just luck out. On of the RV supplier here had a shed full of usedwindows.
One guy here just missed getting all the new windows from a lady for about $150. He ended up buying them from Sunview and I got the name and sizes for mine from him. Even run some adds in the some of the buy and sell papers.
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Old 01-11-2006, 09:38 AM   #18
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Roger that, LLama King. Eyes are peeled, hunt is ongoing, but likely might take forever...a long time to wait. There just aren't any known RV salvalge/repair shops around these parts. Seems like everything is either in Canada or out West.
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Old 01-12-2006, 11:44 AM   #19
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Myron,
How about some pictures your Burro windows and some dimensions of the ones you want to replace. A least with the size in hand some of us might run acroos them some where. As this site covers Canada and the US that would get a lot of eyeballs looking out there.
I seem to recall on one of the threads you were looking for a front slider type. Doesn't the Burro all ready have the newer style radiused windows?
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Old 01-12-2006, 06:38 PM   #20
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I appreciate your kind offer. Mine is an '81 Burro with a front slider window, rough opening 18 high x 46" wide. Yeah, that 46 inches is the deal buster, along with inherent limitations of the Burro shell shape.

The two lights (windows) are plastic. I removed the window and cleaned off all the original caulking and returned window in place with a ribbon of black, high grade auto windshield caulking. There were no leaks until we got a day of hard driving, windy rain. I think it leaked not from the caulking but where the two plastic lights overlap. Possibly also around the gaskets holding the lights in.

Think its mostly a case of poor or tired engineering design. I have convinced myself that any newer window design will be a improvement. I mean Leak wise, and also looks-wise. Well, that's my story, and I'm stickin' to it!

Don't think my other windows leak, but as you see from the picture, who would know? The Burro will likely stay under cover until spring when all work on it will be done.

..........Oh, say, and this is timely... I just bought two 19 x 24" sliders for $20 apiece plus shipping for total of $75 from a Pennsylvania ebayer. Now THAT's what I'm talkin' about! Of course these don't come with the inside frame so I will have to make something to make it work. Doing the radius corners should be a barrel of pickels.

I wasn't going to replace those side windows but at that price how could I resist the deal?
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Old 01-12-2006, 06:45 PM   #21
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Thanks all for the ideas. My windows are plain aluminum inside and out with clear glass. They are all clamp ring style. I have yet to figure out what brand they are (of course I haven't tried too hard of late). Since my work has been a frame off restoration that started with a rotting floor, that lead to replacing all of the insulation, I have removed a few of the windows already. Before doing so I did spend some time in the trailer during rains with the gutted shell. There were a couple of leaks due to the butyl tape seal but most were from the shrunken, uv damaged rubber seal around the glass, worn out weather stripping and crumbling weephole covers. If I were to save the windows I would need someone to really replace seal, strip and cover. I just don't have the time and I really don't want to move any further with all of the other work until I have a watertight shell. This is where I arrived at the idea of replacing them with new and letting the old ones become someone else little project but until I find a more reasonable price per window, it looks like I am going to have to restore the ones I have.

For those of you looking at the double pane windows, they are pricey and the minimum wall thickness that I was able to find was 3/4". So unless you are going to build up your wall thickness by some means, it looks like single pane it is. The deal with the condensation is to make sure bugs and mud dobbers haven't clogged up your weepholes. Keep them clean and clear and other than being unsightly, the water will have a path.
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Old 01-12-2006, 09:44 PM   #22
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Myron, I take it you are talking about the side windows. On our new sliders there is what is called a "Wipe" a thin rubber that seal between the 2 panes when they are closed. Check that and see if it is breaking down or not tight. I think you can get replacement strips.
If you picked up a couple of windows without the inner clamp frames can you scavange the ones off your existing windows.
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Old 01-13-2006, 11:49 PM   #23
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Talking of windows, has anyone heard of double glazing trailer windows? This condensation stuff is nasty! We're been sitting in rain for the last week and I'm pretty sure the worst problem is from condensation, not leaks as I first feared.
Christine
The only thing worse than breathing in in a small trailer of any kind is the use of propane for either heating or cooking in it. A small electric heater and a microwave where it is possible helps a lot with drips of condensation. Ventilation is another aid but I live in Coos Bay and know what the weather has been for several weeks. Very wet, windy and cold! Trying to keep warm isn't conducive to opening windows and vents and using vent fans!
I sometimes miss the "dry" winters and even "dry" snows of E. OR.
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Old 01-14-2006, 12:19 AM   #24
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The only thing worse than breathing in in a small trailer of any kind is the use of propane for either heating or cooking in it. A small electric heater and a microwave where it is possible helps a lot with drips of condensation. Ventilation is another aid but I live in Coos Bay and know what the weather has been for several weeks. Very wet, windy and cold! Trying to keep warm isn't conducive to opening windows and vents and using vent fans!
I sometimes miss the "dry" winters and even "dry" snows of E. OR.

An electric heater and a microwave sound pretty good. Now all I have to do is find the right kind of current bush.
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Old 01-15-2006, 04:17 PM   #25
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another place for windows http://www.buccaneermfg.com/
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Old 01-15-2006, 04:27 PM   #26
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another place for windows http://www.buccaneermfg.com/
Buccaneer is located on the Oregon Coast...north of Bullard's! For those that want to order a window or two and are planning on attending the Oregon Gathering. You could save yourself a bunch of $$ in shipping costs by ordering ahead and picking them up.

FYI...Buccaneer only manufacturers windows when ordered...they don't carry any windows in stock.
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Old 01-26-2006, 07:06 PM   #27
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Well I just took delivery on my third Hehr window, obtained through ebay.
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Old 01-26-2006, 07:13 PM   #28
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Well I just took delivery on my third Hehr window, obtained through ebay.

First, took a chance on two identical sliders for street and curb sides. Tinted glass, real nice though some scratches in black paint. Turns out they will require some special shim work to make them fit, but I'm up to it. Came without the clamp ring mounting bezel so I contacted a Hehr supplier for that.

And today I took delivery on a Hehr awning type window, white, with same tinted glass, that will go in the front of the Burro. Again, no clam ring mounting bezel. Obviously pulled from a previous installation and not perfect, but damn good. This one will also not be a perfect fit into the current rough opening, but my confidence in making it work is high.

Hehr rep said there would be a 3-5 week wait for the clamp rings. Bummer that. Considering the price of buying new, you can believe the window business is booming. Pictures will follow, disaster or not.
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