Window Sticker Shock! - Fiberglass RV


Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 01-09-2006, 11:11 AM   #1
Member
 
Rob S.'s Avatar
 
Name: Rob
Trailer: 1980 Bolar 1700
Massachusetts
Posts: 92
Hey All,

Happy New year to everyone. I thought I had decided to replace all of my leaky windows with new and be done with it rather than continue to mess with the endless repairs. So I contacted Alrite and asked for a quote. Boy was I in for a surprise! To replace the 6 windows on my Boler 1700 is going to cost $4702.00 US!!!!!! That's more than I paid for the whole trailer. The small 24.5x18 sliders were $630 ea going up to the front awning window for $976 the rest were somewhere towards the high end. I know some of you have replaced windows before but were you paying this much? I really need to rethink restoring the ones I have but where to get them restored around here?

Thoughts are welcome.

Rob
__________________

__________________
Rob S. is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-09-2006, 11:31 AM   #2
Senior Member
 
Donna D.'s Avatar
 
Name: Donna D
Trailer: Escape 5.0 TA, 2014
Oregon
Posts: 24,432
Sunview

Hehr International

Other stuff on the Helpful-Links page too.

I'm buying a back window from RV Parts Outlet, but it's within driving distance of me...shipping MAY be very expensive for you tho
__________________

__________________
Donna D.
Ten Forward - 2014 Escape 5.0 TA
Double Yolk - 1988 16' Scamp Deluxe
Donna D. is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-09-2006, 12:01 PM   #3
Con
Senior Member
 
Name: Con
Trailer: 1977 Boler 1300/2003 17' Bigfoot
British Columbia
Posts: 319
Some one is blowing smoke up your know what! I replaced my 4 windows for under $600 Can. including the stainless steel screws and roll of butyl tape. Try SunView. With your American dollar you should be able to get a good price. They produce 40,000 windows a year. I don't know what Hehr prices are like but its worth an enquiry. If you go to a plastics supplier you can get half a sheet of Plexigals for under $200 cut your front and back windows and replace them.That is assuming that they need replacing.
If you want I will dig out he dimensions of my windows.
__________________
Con is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-09-2006, 12:08 PM   #4
Senior Member
 
Bigfoot Mike's Avatar
 
Name: Mike
Trailer: Bigfoot 25 ft
Posts: 7,317
Quote:
I know some of you have replaced windows before but were you paying this much? I really need to rethink restoring the ones I have but where to get them restored around here?
Thoughts are welcome.
Rob
Ouch! that does seem pricey.

This is one of the key reasons we started this website; so owners can help owners. We have collected links to resouces for all kinds of this and made a link on the Left NavBar. Here is one that might help you RV Parts.

If anyone finds additional websites let us know and we will add them.

Thanks.
__________________
Bigfoot Mike is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-09-2006, 05:26 PM   #5
Senior Member
 
Joy A's Avatar
 
Trailer: 2001 13 ft Scamp / 1993 Jeep Cherokee
Posts: 1,252
My price list from the Scamp factory says: side 18x24 slider for $105 each, rear slider 18x42 $125 and the front solid plexiglass 19 3/8x43 for $40. Door window 15x15 1/2 $95.

There is also a rear deluxe slider listed 18x30 for $105.

Now this price was a couple of years ago so you most likely see a slight raise in prices.

1-800-346-4962 ask for Parts
__________________
Joy A. & Lily
and "Puff", too
No. Ca. Sierra Foothills
Joy A is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-09-2006, 05:58 PM   #6
Member
 
Trailer: 2005 19 ft Scamp 19 ft 5th Wheel
Posts: 88
Send a message via MSN to christineb
Quote:
My price list from the Scamp factory says: side 18x24 slider for $105 each, rear slider 18x42 $125 and the front solid plexiglass 19 3/8x43 for $40. Door window 15x15 1/2 $95.

There is also a rear deluxe slider listed 18x30 for $105.

Now this price was a couple of years ago so you most likely see a slight raise in prices.

1-800-346-4962 ask for Parts
Talking of windows, has anyone heard of double glazing trailer windows? This condensation stuff is nasty! We're been sitting in rain for the last week and I'm pretty sure the worst problem is from condensation, not leaks as I first feared.
Christine
__________________
christineb is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-09-2006, 06:35 PM   #7
Senior Member
 
BobB's Avatar
 
Trailer: 2004 Bigfoot 17 ft ('Beastie')
Posts: 564
Registry
Bigfoot offers double glazed windows as an option.
__________________
BobB is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-09-2006, 07:59 PM   #8
Senior Member
 
Donna D.'s Avatar
 
Name: Donna D
Trailer: Escape 5.0 TA, 2014
Oregon
Posts: 24,432
Quote:
Talking of windows, has anyone heard of double glazing trailer windows? This condensation stuff is nasty! We're been sitting in rain for the last week and I'm pretty sure the worst problem is from condensation, not leaks as I first feared.
Christine
I'm not sure a single wall trailer like a Scamp has enough thickness to support the extra width. But now you know why I was so interested in hearing if the plastic window stuff that goes on with a hairdryer works on the windows of these trailers. I'm not camping until the end of April and may just have to try it myself if no one else answers up. It would only have to be used for cold weather camping...
__________________
Donna D.
Ten Forward - 2014 Escape 5.0 TA
Double Yolk - 1988 16' Scamp Deluxe
Donna D. is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-09-2006, 09:42 PM   #9
Member
 
Trailer: 2005 19 ft Scamp 19 ft 5th Wheel
Posts: 88
Send a message via MSN to christineb
Quote:
I'm not sure a single wall trailer like a Scamp has enough thickness to support the extra width. But now you know why I was so interested in hearing if the plastic window stuff that goes on with a hairdryer works on the windows of these trailers. I'm not camping until the end of April and may just have to try it myself if no one else answers up. It would only have to be used for cold weather camping...

Hmmm, I'm desperate enough to try just about anything! Do you know where I could find some Donna? I assume you have to actually be out of the rain to start using it
I'm thinking of putting pontoons under it at the moment! We're heading home to Florence tomorrow and the river's supposed to be at flood stage...........interesting.....
Christine[font=Comic Sans Ms]
PS: There's a gap behind the wall over the microwave.........hurrah! New bookshelf coming up (if I can get hubby in gear)
__________________
christineb is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-09-2006, 10:32 PM   #10
Con
Senior Member
 
Name: Con
Trailer: 1977 Boler 1300/2003 17' Bigfoot
British Columbia
Posts: 319
Rob, I got to thinking about your window problem if you are having leaks. (unusal for a 1980
Boler) Anyhow a friend of mine has a 16' Boler about The same age as yours. His has the radius cornered sliding windows almost the same as I installed in our 77 except his are not tinted. I would suggest it would not be a major job to take the screws out of the inside flange and carefully pry the windows out. Once you have them out and clean all the old butyl tape off the frame flange and the theFG shell you can buy a roll of butyl tape from a local RV dealer for about $10 to $20. You then apply the new tape to the flange but leave the paper cover on. With some help you can fit the window back into the shell and but not tight to the shell. Then start to peal back the paper cover and once it is all off press the taped frame to the shell. it will stick like contact cement so you won't be able to move it once it on. Go inside and replace the clampnibg frame with the screws. I would suggest replacing all the screws with stainless stell ones. You won't get any rust then from condensation.
If your frames are black power coated alum. as my friends are, and they are a bit nuggy, you can clean them, scuff them with very fine steel wool and repaint then with Krylon Semi Flat Black paint. It comes in spray cans for about $5. I have used it for years on refurbishing wrecked Arctic Cat, Polaris and Yamaha snowmobiles. I buy it by the case. it is a quick dry lacquer and gives an excellant finish. I have used it on our Boler also.
I will be forwarding some links for paints to Donna soon.
I am almost certain you could solve your problem for minamal exspense and effort, unless I am missing something here. Why not post a picture of your Boler.
__________________
Con is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-10-2006, 12:11 AM   #11
Moderator
 
Gina D.'s Avatar
 
Name: Gina D.
Trailer: '77 Leocraft 17 & Former Burro owner and fan!
West Coast USA
Posts: 9,016
Registry
I am about to go thru this process myself.

UGH! Camping World down here has a 4 month waiting list and they wanted almost as much as the cost of new windows. 600 for my 5 windows!

I need to be absolutely sure of the weather, as it will take me a couple days to do this on my own AFTER I rig things to hold the windows in while disconnecting every thing.

Getting them back in will be loads of joy. Anyone made a tool? I was thinking of rigging them to some sort of overhead trust, or trying to find an engine hoist.
__________________
Gina D. is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-10-2006, 12:51 AM   #12
Senior Member
 
Pete Dumbleton's Avatar
 
Trailer: Scamp
Posts: 3,072
Send a message via Yahoo to Pete Dumbleton
Quote:
My price list from the Scamp factory says: side 18x24 slider for $105 each, rear slider 18x42 $125 and the front solid plexiglass 19 3/8x43 for $40. Door window 15x15 1/2 $95.

1-800-346-4962 ask for Parts
Scamp keeps their current parts price list in downloadable form on the web site.

I'd bet that unless you are wanting to go to a different style of window, you'd get results almost as good a replacement by removing and properly reinstallign every window without replacement, refurbishing and cleaning gaskets as you go. I understand that the relatively newer butyl rubber strip caulking is really good stuf.

A simple way to deal with the condensation is to just remove the screens and store them, using a small Squee-gee to move the water down to the drains.

Multiple glazing's real purpose is so that it doesn't transfer heat to the outside so quickly; the water vapor is always going to either be in the air or condensing on all surfaces, albeit relatively likely -- Trapping water vapor as condensation on windows is actually a good thing because the water can now be moved down and out the drain system, which beats retaining it in the air, on bedding, ratfur, etc.

It also helps to turn up the heating and open roof vents to "dump" the hottest air because that' s where most vapor is trapped.
__________________
Pete Dumbleton is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-10-2006, 07:21 AM   #13
Senior Member
 
Donna D.'s Avatar
 
Name: Donna D
Trailer: Escape 5.0 TA, 2014
Oregon
Posts: 24,432
Quote:
A simple way to deal with the condensation is to just remove the screens and store them, using a small Squee-gee to move the water down to the drains.
That would work for all but the two biggest windows in my Scamp, the front and back plexiglass windows...no weep holes because they use rubber gaskets. I've noticed there's no weep holes in the bathroom window either...and it's black powdercoated aluminum framed.

Christine, the plastic window stuff is available at just about any hardware-type store, usually in the area with the "winterizing" stuff. I'm thinking about applying it to the inside of the windows. What they heck, it's pretty inexpensive and may be just the ticket. Worth a try at any rate.

Con, thanks for the information on how to replace the butyl tape..I don't think anyone ever has before I'm pulling all the windows on my trailer this spring...getting ready for paint. Sounds like a job for two people
__________________
Donna D.
Ten Forward - 2014 Escape 5.0 TA
Double Yolk - 1988 16' Scamp Deluxe
Donna D. is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-10-2006, 12:32 PM   #14
Con
Senior Member
 
Name: Con
Trailer: 1977 Boler 1300/2003 17' Bigfoot
British Columbia
Posts: 319
Donna; I replaced the windows by myself. The biggest job was drilling out all the rivets on the old ones. There must be about 30 in each side window. Because the new windows were slightly bigger when I did the cut-outs there were not too many rivet holes left to fill. I was quite surprised on how much lighter the new windows were. At least 2 or 3 lbs. each.
There are a few more tips I should mention.

As my windows were new, I had to pre-drill the screw holes. You have to use the right size drill or the screws can snap off because they were too tight. I had one do that. I used SS self tapping screws. The inner clamp frame has holes to use as a template. In your case you will all ready have the holes.

The butyl tape is 1/8"x3/4" and when you start to set the screws it will pull the window tight against the shell causing the tape to squish down to about 1/16". You can set the window in place from the outside, open the slider and reach through and start a couple of screws to hold it in place. Then go inside and set the rest of the screws.

When applying the tape to the frame be careful not to stretch it. It stretches easily. When you come to the rounded corners, nip the paper backing so the tape will lay flat and bend around the corners. You don't what it to buckle. The tape bends but the paper doesn't!


After all the screws are set, some tape will sqeeze out around the frame. Leave the windows to set over night to allow the butyl to finish squeezing out. Then using a Stanley knife, score the squeezed out tape along the frame edge and the excess will peal out in a string. You don't press hard with the knife as you don't want to score the Gel Coat.
The left over tape you can use to seal around pipes etc. thru the floor or walls.

If there is any excess or blobs anywhere, just use a cloth and gasoline to remove it.
I have used gas for years to clean off adhesives etc. It is only $4.50 a gal. compared to almost $20 a gal. for Acetone of Lacquor Thinner and does not hurt any finish that if have encountered.

As far as your Plexi windows, if they are not badly scratched,cracked or leaking, I would leave them alone. If the rubber gasket is bad shape any automove glass shop can replace those. I think the rubber is $2 or $3 a foot. They use the old trick with a string in the slot to reinstall the Plexi.

And Walla! You are finished and have a nice clean, leak free installation.

I will say more about using Silcon sealants problems I have seen later when I have a little more time.
__________________

__________________
Con is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Shock Absorber Retrofit Brian B-P Modifications, Alterations and Updates 24 01-15-2013 09:00 PM
Trailer Shock Absorbers Steve Dunkel General Chat 15 01-25-2011 06:37 AM
Testing shock absorbers ronsmith100 Modifications, Alterations and Updates 4 12-05-2008 09:59 AM
Not really a Bumper sticker Des Nolan Jokes, Stories & Tall Tales 8 08-03-2008 10:50 PM
FiberglassRV bumper/window sticker? Daniel V. General Chat 12 02-03-2008 10:27 PM

» Upcoming Events
No events scheduled in
the next 465 days.
» Virginia Campgrounds

Reviews provided by


Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 03:51 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.