Window Sticker Shock!

[Rob S.]

Hey All,

Happy New year to everyone. I thought I had decided to replace all of my leaky windows with new and be done with it rather than continue to mess with the endless repairs. So I contacted Alrite and asked for a quote. Boy was I in for a surprise! To replace the 6 windows on my Boler 1700 is going to cost $4702.00 US!!!!!! That's more than I paid for the whole trailer. The small 24.5x18 sliders were $630 ea going up to the front awning window for $976 the rest were somewhere towards the high end. I know some of you have replaced windows before but were you paying this much? I really need to rethink restoring the ones I have but where to get them restored around here?

Thoughts are welcome.

Rob

[Donna D.]

Sunview

Hehr International

Other stuff on the Helpful-Links page too.

I'm buying a back window from RV Parts Outlet, but it's within driving distance of me...shipping MAY be very expensive for you tho

[Con]

Some one is blowing smoke up your know what! I replaced my 4 windows for under $600 Can. including the stainless steel screws and roll of butyl tape. Try SunView. With your American dollar you should be able to get a good price. They produce 40,000 windows a year. I don't know what Hehr prices are like but its worth an enquiry. If you go to a plastics supplier you can get half a sheet of Plexigals for under $200 cut your front and back windows and replace them.That is assuming that they need replacing.
If you want I will dig out he dimensions of my windows.

[Bigfoot Mike]

I know some of you have replaced windows before but were you paying this much? I really need to rethink restoring the ones I have but where to get them restored around here?
Thoughts are welcome.
Rob

Ouch! that does seem pricey.

This is one of the key reasons we started this website; so owners can help owners. We have collected links to resouces for all kinds of this and made a link on the Left NavBar. Here is one that might help you RV Parts.

If anyone finds additional websites let us know and we will add them.

Thanks.

[Joy A]

My price list from the Scamp factory says: side 18x24 slider for $105 each, rear slider 18x42 $125 and the front solid plexiglass 19 3/8x43 for $40. Door window 15x15 1/2 $95.

There is also a rear deluxe slider listed 18x30 for $105.

Now this price was a couple of years ago so you most likely see a slight raise in prices.

1-800-346-4962 ask for Parts

[christineb]

My price list from the Scamp factory says: side 18x24 slider for $105 each, rear slider 18x42 $125 and the front solid plexiglass 19 3/8x43 for $40. Door window 15x15 1/2 $95.

There is also a rear deluxe slider listed 18x30 for $105.

Now this price was a couple of years ago so you most likely see a slight raise in prices.

1-800-346-4962 ask for Parts

Talking of windows, has anyone heard of double glazing trailer windows? This condensation stuff is nasty! We're been sitting in rain for the last week and I'm pretty sure the worst problem is from condensation, not leaks as I first feared.
Christine

[BobB]

Bigfoot offers double glazed windows as an option.

[Donna D.]

Talking of windows, has anyone heard of double glazing trailer windows? This condensation stuff is nasty! We're been sitting in rain for the last week and I'm pretty sure the worst problem is from condensation, not leaks as I first feared.
Christine

I'm not sure a single wall trailer like a Scamp has enough thickness to support the extra width. But now you know why I was so interested in hearing if the plastic window stuff that goes on with a hairdryer works on the windows of these trailers. I'm not camping until the end of April and may just have to try it myself if no one else answers up. It would only have to be used for cold weather camping...

[christineb]

I'm not sure a single wall trailer like a Scamp has enough thickness to support the extra width. But now you know why I was so interested in hearing if the plastic window stuff that goes on with a hairdryer works on the windows of these trailers. I'm not camping until the end of April and may just have to try it myself if no one else answers up. It would only have to be used for cold weather camping...

Hmmm, I'm desperate enough to try just about anything! Do you know where I could find some Donna? I assume you have to actually be out of the rain to start using it
I'm thinking of putting pontoons under it at the moment! We're heading home to Florence tomorrow and the river's supposed to be at flood stage...........interesting.....
Christine[font=Comic Sans Ms]
PS: There's a gap behind the wall over the microwave.........hurrah! New bookshelf coming up (if I can get hubby in gear)

[Con]

Rob, I got to thinking about your window problem if you are having leaks. (unusal for a 1980
Boler) Anyhow a friend of mine has a 16' Boler about The same age as yours. His has the radius cornered sliding windows almost the same as I installed in our 77 except his are not tinted. I would suggest it would not be a major job to take the screws out of the inside flange and carefully pry the windows out. Once you have them out and clean all the old butyl tape off the frame flange and the theFG shell you can buy a roll of butyl tape from a local RV dealer for about $10 to $20. You then apply the new tape to the flange but leave the paper cover on. With some help you can fit the window back into the shell and but not tight to the shell. Then start to peal back the paper cover and once it is all off press the taped frame to the shell. it will stick like contact cement so you won't be able to move it once it on. Go inside and replace the clampnibg frame with the screws. I would suggest replacing all the screws with stainless stell ones. You won't get any rust then from condensation.
If your frames are black power coated alum. as my friends are, and they are a bit nuggy, you can clean them, scuff them with very fine steel wool and repaint then with Krylon Semi Flat Black paint. It comes in spray cans for about $5. I have used it for years on refurbishing wrecked Arctic Cat, Polaris and Yamaha snowmobiles. I buy it by the case. it is a quick dry lacquer and gives an excellant finish. I have used it on our Boler also.
I will be forwarding some links for paints to Donna soon.
I am almost certain you could solve your problem for minamal exspense and effort, unless I am missing something here. Why not post a picture of your Boler.

[Gina D.]

I am about to go thru this process myself.

UGH! Camping World down here has a 4 month waiting list and they wanted almost as much as the cost of new windows. 600 for my 5 windows!

I need to be absolutely sure of the weather, as it will take me a couple days to do this on my own AFTER I rig things to hold the windows in while disconnecting every thing.

Getting them back in will be loads of joy. Anyone made a tool? I was thinking of rigging them to some sort of overhead trust, or trying to find an engine hoist.

[Pete Dumbleton]

My price list from the Scamp factory says: side 18x24 slider for $105 each, rear slider 18x42 $125 and the front solid plexiglass 19 3/8x43 for $40. Door window 15x15 1/2 $95.

1-800-346-4962 ask for Parts

Scamp keeps their current parts price list in downloadable form on the web site.

I'd bet that unless you are wanting to go to a different style of window, you'd get results almost as good a replacement by removing and properly reinstallign every window without replacement, refurbishing and cleaning gaskets as you go. I understand that the relatively newer butyl rubber strip caulking is really good stuf.

A simple way to deal with the condensation is to just remove the screens and store them, using a small Squee-gee to move the water down to the drains.

Multiple glazing's real purpose is so that it doesn't transfer heat to the outside so quickly; the water vapor is always going to either be in the air or condensing on all surfaces, albeit relatively likely -- Trapping water vapor as condensation on windows is actually a good thing because the water can now be moved down and out the drain system, which beats retaining it in the air, on bedding, ratfur, etc.

It also helps to turn up the heating and open roof vents to "dump" the hottest air because that' s where most vapor is trapped.

[Donna D.]

A simple way to deal with the condensation is to just remove the screens and store them, using a small Squee-gee to move the water down to the drains.

That would work for all but the two biggest windows in my Scamp, the front and back plexiglass windows...no weep holes because they use rubber gaskets. I've noticed there's no weep holes in the bathroom window either...and it's black powdercoated aluminum framed.

Christine, the plastic window stuff is available at just about any hardware-type store, usually in the area with the "winterizing" stuff. I'm thinking about applying it to the inside of the windows. What they heck, it's pretty inexpensive and may be just the ticket. Worth a try at any rate.

Con, thanks for the information on how to replace the butyl tape..I don't think anyone ever has before I'm pulling all the windows on my trailer this spring...getting ready for paint. Sounds like a job for two people

[Con]

Donna; I replaced the windows by myself. The biggest job was drilling out all the rivets on the old ones. There must be about 30 in each side window. Because the new windows were slightly bigger when I did the cut-outs there were not too many rivet holes left to fill. I was quite surprised on how much lighter the new windows were. At least 2 or 3 lbs. each.
There are a few more tips I should mention.

As my windows were new, I had to pre-drill the screw holes. You have to use the right size drill or the screws can snap off because they were too tight. I had one do that. I used SS self tapping screws. The inner clamp frame has holes to use as a template. In your case you will all ready have the holes.

The butyl tape is 1/8"x3/4" and when you start to set the screws it will pull the window tight against the shell causing the tape to squish down to about 1/16". You can set the window in place from the outside, open the slider and reach through and start a couple of screws to hold it in place. Then go inside and set the rest of the screws.

When applying the tape to the frame be careful not to stretch it. It stretches easily. When you come to the rounded corners, nip the paper backing so the tape will lay flat and bend around the corners. You don't what it to buckle. The tape bends but the paper doesn't!


After all the screws are set, some tape will sqeeze out around the frame. Leave the windows to set over night to allow the butyl to finish squeezing out. Then using a Stanley knife, score the squeezed out tape along the frame edge and the excess will peal out in a string. You don't press hard with the knife as you don't want to score the Gel Coat.
The left over tape you can use to seal around pipes etc. thru the floor or walls.

If there is any excess or blobs anywhere, just use a cloth and gasoline to remove it.
I have used gas for years to clean off adhesives etc. It is only $4.50 a gal. compared to almost $20 a gal. for Acetone of Lacquor Thinner and does not hurt any finish that if have encountered.

As far as your Plexi windows, if they are not badly scratched,cracked or leaking, I would leave them alone. If the rubber gasket is bad shape any automove glass shop can replace those. I think the rubber is $2 or $3 a foot. They use the old trick with a string in the slot to reinstall the Plexi.

And Walla! You are finished and have a nice clean, leak free installation.

I will say more about using Silcon sealants problems I have seen later when I have a little more time.

[Brian B-P]

I have only removed and replaced a couple of the windows in my 1979 Boler B1700RGH, replacing the sealing putty, and it seems that the job was similar for Con and I. Here are a few notes about my specific experience:

• there are no rivets used for my windows - the Hehr originals are held by an extruded aluminum clamping frame on the inside as Con describes for his replacement units
• I completely removed the paper in the radiused corner sections (only) as I installed the tape on the window flange
• I removed all of the paper before lifting the entire unit into the body opening, and did not find a need for any kind of support rig, but then I have not done the largest windows yet (just the door and dinette side units)
• the white surface material of the lining foam (much softer than the Ensolite typically used in B1300's) stuck to the clamping frames and had to be scraped off - I had to score with a sharp knife around the frame then slide in a putty knife to avoid pulling and tearing the foam
• I used two strips of butyl putty tape, which is actually a bit too much for the frame flange, so I had a significant excess to remove - I'm not sure if this is really better than a single strip, but I thought maximum area of sealed contact would be good

[MyronL]

When I saw the window prices quoted in JoyA's post (#5) my eyes got wide, my heart leaped!

Yeah, well, forgeddaboudit, buddy boy.

Just got an estimate from RV Parts Outlet.com for a picture window 18 x 46", clear glass, black radius frame: $444.50 including shipping. $540.50 for a slider.

Granted, this is custom built and cheaper than All-Rite Custom builts by several hundred bucks but .... there's got to be something more reasonable somewhere.

It is so galling to have seen so many low priced rv windows up on ebay ...apparently pulled from junkers or as cancelled dealer special orders being unloaded ....but none that will fit my Burro rough openings.

[Con]

Myron, start hitting the RV repair shops in your area. Some times they have wrecked trailers and campers out back that they scavenge parts off of. Keep in touch with them, you might just luck out. On of the RV supplier here had a shed full of usedwindows.
One guy here just missed getting all the new windows from a lady for about $150. He ended up buying them from Sunview and I got the name and sizes for mine from him. Even run some adds in the some of the buy and sell papers.

[MyronL]

Roger that, LLama King. Eyes are peeled, hunt is ongoing, but likely might take forever...a long time to wait. There just aren't any known RV salvalge/repair shops around these parts. Seems like everything is either in Canada or out West.

[Con]

Myron,
How about some pictures your Burro windows and some dimensions of the ones you want to replace. A least with the size in hand some of us might run acroos them some where. As this site covers Canada and the US that would get a lot of eyeballs looking out there.
I seem to recall on one of the threads you were looking for a front slider type. Doesn't the Burro all ready have the newer style radiused windows?

[MyronL]

I appreciate your kind offer. Mine is an '81 Burro with a front slider window, rough opening 18 high x 46" wide. Yeah, that 46 inches is the deal buster, along with inherent limitations of the Burro shell shape.

The two lights (windows) are plastic. I removed the window and cleaned off all the original caulking and returned window in place with a ribbon of black, high grade auto windshield caulking. There were no leaks until we got a day of hard driving, windy rain. I think it leaked not from the caulking but where the two plastic lights overlap. Possibly also around the gaskets holding the lights in.

Think its mostly a case of poor or tired engineering design. I have convinced myself that any newer window design will be a improvement. I mean Leak wise, and also looks-wise. Well, that's my story, and I'm stickin' to it!

Don't think my other windows leak, but as you see from the picture, who would know? The Burro will likely stay under cover until spring when all work on it will be done.

..........Oh, say, and this is timely... I just bought two 19 x 24" sliders for $20 apiece plus shipping for total of $75 from a Pennsylvania ebayer. Now THAT's what I'm talkin' about! Of course these don't come with the inside frame so I will have to make something to make it work. Doing the radius corners should be a barrel of pickels.

I wasn't going to replace those side windows but at that price how could I resist the deal?