Winterizing

[WardDeaux]

At 8,000' it again time to winterize. This is only the second time I have winterized and I have been wondering about one thing. I never have used the city water bib while camping. Why would I need to blow compressed air through the city water input bib if I am going to drain the water system and run anti freeze through the pipes and into the drains. Running anti freeze through the pipes should displace any water so what is the benefit of blowing compressed air through the system?

Thanks,
WardDeaux (Wardo was taken)

[gordon2]

Originally Posted by WardDeaux

.. Running anti freeze through the pipes should displace any water so what is the benefit of blowing compressed air through the system?

None.

Speaking about my Scamp...

Compressed air is for people who don't want to use anti-freeze, or want to use less of it. Running anti-freeze through all the plumbing is all that is needed (with some left in the trap(s) for good measure. IMHO blowing out the pipes with compressed air is not always effective and you would be hard pressed to know when water is left in critical areas. It can also do damage if not done properly. I expect some differing opinions will follow, humble or not.

[Raspy]

You don't need to blow it out with air if you are going to replace the fresh water with antifreeze.

I use air instead of antifreeze, but it's just a personal choice. I drain the water heater at it's anode drain port, thoroughly blow out all water from the fresh water system by hooking up a compressor to the fresh water inlet and setting the pressure to about 30 PSI or so. Open all faucets until only air comes out, then pour about a cup of straight RV antifreeze in each trap. That's it.

There may be a bit of water somewhere in the lines, I suppose, but I've never had a problem and we freeze every year here at 5,000 ft. PEX is very tolerant. I just don't like the idea of filling my whole system with anti-freeeze that then must be thoroughly flushed later.

[kootenaigirl]

I just did my Casita and being in a colder zone I am extra cautious. I blow air in to start and am always surprised at how much water comes out. I then do the pink stuff (with the winterizing kit so none in the fresh water tank) and again am surprised that it is still quite dilute when it first comes through. It doesn't take long and then I am sure it is all good.

[Jack L]

I use compressed air to clear the lines. I have a bypass valve set up on the water heater and a bypass valve on the freshwater pump so I can pump antifreeze directly in the pump. I can winterize the system with a half gallon of antifreeze , including the P traps. I know someone who puts several gallons of antifreeze in the empty freshwater tank and pumps the antifreeze into the system. Neither of us has ever had a freezing issue, but he has had an annual "cherry flavored" coffee issue each spring.


I carry a 12 volt compressor and a jug of antifreeze , when traveling, if there is a possibility of sustained below freezing temps. I can protect my trailer with about 15 minutes of work, not including draining the black and grey tanks.

[Steve L.]

I've done all three permutations over the years:
1. air only
2. air then red pop (RV antifreeze).
3. red pop only.

Last fall I did air only and the in-line filter cracked on me and I had water all through the trailer when I filled up at the start of my first camping trip this year. @#!%^&*. This year I'm returning to No. 3. Red pop "injected" ahead of the filter, pumped until it comes out the faucets. That will take less than a gallon, even if there is plain water in the pipes at the start. The remainder split between the sink traps and the toilet.

By "injected" I mean that I put a tap into the water line between the tank and the in-line filter and I suck the red pop out of the jug so that it goes through the in-line filter and the water pump before it goes on to the pipes in general, hot water tank bypassed.