Winterizing my new Egg! - Fiberglass RV


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Old 12-29-2012, 06:35 PM   #1
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Winterizing my new Egg!

Well I learned something today, I will need to have to add a bypass valves for the heater. I drained the water heater, and then added 2 gallons of rv/marine antifreeze, came around the door side and saw it all dripping out the water heater drain hole... guess I need to put that back in first next time lol.

I think my zinc needs to be replaced



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Old 12-29-2012, 07:10 PM   #2
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No, that rod is fine. when it gets down to a pencil lead size you will need to replace.
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Old 12-29-2012, 07:11 PM   #3
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Deryk, there is plenty of life left on that anode. Until the sacrificial rod is just about completely gone, there is no need to replace. Just tape her back up, and put it back in.

edit: Or, what the quicker typing Jim said.
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Old 12-29-2012, 07:25 PM   #4
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Yeah I put it back in so I could get more antifreeze in lol. Im glad I bought 4 jugs of it lol since I lost 2 lol. Will add some more when I go back down tomorrow and need to add it to my porta pottie since it will be seeing some use over the winter. At $2.98 a gallon at wally world its worth the price!

Thanks!

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Old 12-29-2012, 07:35 PM   #5
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Based upon the pictures, it would be relatively easy to add a bypass to your water heater. get some "Shark" fittings from HD, they just slip on and seal without crimping.
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Old 12-29-2012, 07:52 PM   #6
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I hope you wrapped the threads on your anode with teflon tape before re-installing it. If not, you can still remove it and do that. If you wait too long, you may not be able to remove it.
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Old 12-29-2012, 07:54 PM   #7
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So Jim, is there a big deal about putting anti freeze in the water heater? I heard about some flavour in the spring time?

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Old 12-29-2012, 08:00 PM   #8
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My water heater takes six gallons to fill. If you bypass it, you're not filling it with RV anti-freeze at $3 a gallon.
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Old 12-29-2012, 08:31 PM   #9
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No need to put it in the drained water heater, as long as it is by-passed.

When I used to use RV antifreeze in my sticky, I found that I could get by with 1 gallon, and sometimes a bit more. So glad that they designed the plumbing in the Escape so that it is not needed, except of course in the P-traps.
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Old 12-29-2012, 08:51 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deryk View Post
So Jim, is there a big deal about putting anti freeze in the water heater? I heard about some flavour in the spring time?

deryk
Deryk the way the hot water tanks are set up they tend not to drain out completely resulting in water and sometimes dirt and mud sitting on the bottom as well. If you pick up a Water Heater Tank Rinser it will help a lot to clean it out completely so you should not have problems with cleaning out the anti freeze completely from the tank.
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Old 12-29-2012, 10:49 PM   #11
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Thanks Carol, I added it to my bookmarks... another purchase lol...I will have to add the deverter, figures camping world is closed tomorrow. Wonder if they are open monday... always another little project lol

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Old 01-29-2013, 07:25 PM   #12
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old thread...just cruising through and will chime in. Like others stated the anode looks like it has lots of life in it. AND remember to tape the threads with Teflon tape as suggested.

That said... On our 5'ver home on wheels i include in our "Fall Cleaning" a complete flush including replacement of the anode (a $10 dollar part) weather it needs it or not...and it usually looks just about as full of life as yours in the picture. I figure for $10 bucks it's no big deal.

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Old 01-29-2013, 08:04 PM   #13
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Carol H not all trailer hot water heater all drain out completely. I have to blow compressed air into my trailers drain hole to extract the remaining water. Only Escape mounts the water heater tilted high in the back low in the front.
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Old 01-29-2013, 10:47 PM   #14
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Yup your right Chuck thats why I mentioned that sediment can stay sitting in the bottom of it I know the first time I used a small high pressure hose to blow out the bottom part of mine what came out wasn't very nice.
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