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12-29-2012, 06:35 PM
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#1
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Senior Member
Name: deryk
Trailer: 2012 Parkliner 2010 V6 Nissan Frontier 4x4
New Jersey
Posts: 2,085
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Winterizing my new Egg!
Well I learned something today, I will need to have to add a bypass valves for the heater. I drained the water heater, and then added 2 gallons of rv/marine antifreeze, came around the door side and saw it all dripping out the water heater drain hole... guess I need to put that back in first next time lol.
I think my zinc needs to be replaced
deryk
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12-29-2012, 07:10 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Name: jim
Trailer: 2022 Escape19 pulled by 2014 Dodge Ram Hemi Sport
Pennsylvania
Posts: 6,710
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No, that rod is fine. when it gets down to a pencil lead size you will need to replace.
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12-29-2012, 07:11 PM
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#3
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Moderator
Trailer: 2009 19 ft Escape / 2009 Honda Pilot
Posts: 6,221
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Deryk, there is plenty of life left on that anode. Until the sacrificial rod is just about completely gone, there is no need to replace. Just tape her back up, and put it back in.
edit: Or, what the quicker typing Jim said.
__________________
2017 Escape 5.0 TA
2015 Ford F150 Lariat 3.5L EcoBoost
2009 Escape 19 (previous)
“Most folks are about as happy as they make up their minds to be.” — Abraham Lincoln
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12-29-2012, 07:25 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Name: deryk
Trailer: 2012 Parkliner 2010 V6 Nissan Frontier 4x4
New Jersey
Posts: 2,085
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Yeah I put it back in so I could get more antifreeze in lol. Im glad I bought 4 jugs of it lol since I lost 2 lol. Will add some more when I go back down tomorrow and need to add it to my porta pottie since it will be seeing some use over the winter. At $2.98 a gallon at wally world its worth the price!
Thanks!
deryk
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12-29-2012, 07:35 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Name: jim
Trailer: 2022 Escape19 pulled by 2014 Dodge Ram Hemi Sport
Pennsylvania
Posts: 6,710
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Based upon the pictures, it would be relatively easy to add a bypass to your water heater. get some "Shark" fittings from HD, they just slip on and seal without crimping.
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12-29-2012, 07:52 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Trailer: Escape 17 ft
Posts: 8,317
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I hope you wrapped the threads on your anode with teflon tape before re-installing it. If not, you can still remove it and do that. If you wait too long, you may not be able to remove it.
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12-29-2012, 07:54 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Name: deryk
Trailer: 2012 Parkliner 2010 V6 Nissan Frontier 4x4
New Jersey
Posts: 2,085
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So Jim, is there a big deal about putting anti freeze in the water heater? I heard about some flavour in the spring time?
deryk
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12-29-2012, 08:00 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
Trailer: Escape 17 ft
Posts: 8,317
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My water heater takes six gallons to fill. If you bypass it, you're not filling it with RV anti-freeze at $3 a gallon.
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12-29-2012, 08:31 PM
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#9
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Moderator
Trailer: 2009 19 ft Escape / 2009 Honda Pilot
Posts: 6,221
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No need to put it in the drained water heater, as long as it is by-passed.
When I used to use RV antifreeze in my sticky, I found that I could get by with 1 gallon, and sometimes a bit more. So glad that they designed the plumbing in the Escape so that it is not needed, except of course in the P-traps.
__________________
2017 Escape 5.0 TA
2015 Ford F150 Lariat 3.5L EcoBoost
2009 Escape 19 (previous)
“Most folks are about as happy as they make up their minds to be.” — Abraham Lincoln
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12-29-2012, 08:51 PM
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#10
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Senior Member
Trailer: 92 16 ft Scamp
Posts: 11,756
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deryk
So Jim, is there a big deal about putting anti freeze in the water heater? I heard about some flavour in the spring time?
deryk
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Deryk the way the hot water tanks are set up they tend not to drain out completely resulting in water and sometimes dirt and mud sitting on the bottom as well. If you pick up a Water Heater Tank Rinser it will help a lot to clean it out completely so you should not have problems with cleaning out the anti freeze completely from the tank.
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12-29-2012, 10:49 PM
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#11
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Senior Member
Name: deryk
Trailer: 2012 Parkliner 2010 V6 Nissan Frontier 4x4
New Jersey
Posts: 2,085
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Thanks Carol, I added it to my bookmarks... another purchase lol...I will have to add the deverter, figures camping world is closed tomorrow. Wonder if they are open monday... always another little project lol
deryk
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01-29-2013, 07:25 PM
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#12
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Senior Member
Name: Thom
Trailer: Chevy AWD Van Conversion
Astoria Oregon
Posts: 1,004
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old thread...just cruising through and will chime in. Like others stated the anode looks like it has lots of life in it. AND remember to tape the threads with Teflon tape as suggested.
That said... On our 5'ver home on wheels i include in our "Fall Cleaning" a complete flush including replacement of the anode (a $10 dollar part) weather it needs it or not...and it usually looks just about as full of life as yours in the picture. I figure for $10 bucks it's no big deal.
Thom
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01-29-2013, 08:04 PM
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#13
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Senior Member
Name: Chuck
Trailer: tp
Washington
Posts: 649
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Carol H not all trailer hot water heater all drain out completely. I have to blow compressed air into my trailers drain hole to extract the remaining water. Only Escape mounts the water heater tilted high in the back low in the front.
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01-29-2013, 10:47 PM
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#14
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Senior Member
Trailer: 92 16 ft Scamp
Posts: 11,756
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Yup your right Chuck thats why I mentioned that sediment can stay sitting in the bottom of it I know the first time I used a small high pressure hose to blow out the bottom part of mine what came out wasn't very nice.
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01-29-2013, 11:01 PM
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#15
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Senior Member
Name: deryk
Trailer: 2012 Parkliner 2010 V6 Nissan Frontier 4x4
New Jersey
Posts: 2,085
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I will make sure to hose mine out real good! This springthere are many little projects to be done, like adding a drain for the water tank, a diverter for the water heater... and more lol. I want to have my ParkLiner for a real long time so Im planning on takin real good care of it!
deryk
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01-30-2013, 06:45 PM
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#16
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Member
Name: carleen
Trailer: On epic search for Eriba
Texas
Posts: 61
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I'm glad you got a Parkliner and are talking about it. I search each week for new info on them. Someday, hopefully in the next couple of years, I'll get one. Until then, it's nice to hear about them.
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