Wiring Issues - Fiberglass RV


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Old 04-22-2008, 07:57 PM   #1
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Trailer: Boler 1300 1979
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Hi all,

after taking the winter and hibernating, i am back to work on my Boler. of course first, when I towed it out of storage, the lights don't work.

There is a 7 pin connector, and wires going everywhere and connected with vampire clips at every three feet...

There are no 12 volt lights in the trailer and the 120v is already separated. I have no power converter yet and can't afford to buy one this year.

What I hope to do is remove all the 12v wiring, run new trailer light wiring outside under the trailer and the 12v lights and lighter socket wiring to a bus board inside.

Does this make sense to do it this way?

Do I need this 7 pin connector? I have no idea what it is for or does? I have two wires that connected to the battery at the front and they travel to where the old lights were and carry a voltage (i tested)

Does my Boler have brakes LOL? but either way I have no running lights or signal/brake lights

Suggestions are needed and welcome!

Thanks for taking the time to read this jumbled mess....

Graeme
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Old 04-22-2008, 08:30 PM   #2
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If you have wires coming out the back of your hubs(under the trailer), you got brakes.
you need only 4 wires for brakes/running lights, same as on a boat trailer, 1 for markers, 1 for left, 1 for right, white for ground. The extra pins on a 7 pin are for brakes, aux and a charge line.
If your lights are recessed into the trailer, your best bet might be to re-run the wires on the inside, then you won't have them sticking out on the outside. Plus if the wires are inside, you can tap off the charge line or aux line for your inside lights
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Old 04-22-2008, 09:14 PM   #3
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Seven-pin seems to be the most standard after Flat-4, esp if you have brakes, battery charge or backup lights.

What you might want to do is go to the Scamp site and download the Scamp manual with the wiring diagram, as Scamp derived from Boler.

On my 91 Scamp 13', all the wiring comes into the curb side of the hull, crosses in front, goes down the road side and curves across the back, dropping off as needed to get to exterior ights through the hull. This means that most of the connections are inside, where they are not exposed to the corrosive effects of weather.

You should consider putting in a fuse block to distribute the 12VDC from the battery to the various interior lights and cigarette lighter power sockets plus a bus bar for the return wires.
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Old 04-23-2008, 08:18 AM   #4
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Great guys, Thanks

I will take a look to see if I have brakes, if not I think I will simplify and run the wires inside, with a basic trailer wiring.

I have been looking for a decent fuse block, I though I saw one that someone here used (maybe Gerry?) to re-wire his trailer. He posted links to pictures. Anyone know where I can order one and which to use.

I handy with most things, but never have done much wiring. Plus it looks like a hug job to me! (I have a three and two year old that love to "help")

Oh well thats what it is all about!


Graeme


ps. Scamp has changed the site, I can't seem to find that wiring diagram, does anyone have it that can email me? I used to have it as well but it must be safety put away.

gcross@plaintree.com




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Old 04-23-2008, 03:03 PM   #5
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Google 'atm fuse block' for some sites and photos.

Even if you have brakes, run the wires inside, drop the brake wires through the floor by the road-side wheel and then carry them across the axle beam to the other side.

http://scamptrailers.com/AskScamp/OwnersManuals.aspx


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Old 04-25-2008, 05:26 PM   #6
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I rewired my 1972 Boler and got a fuse block that uses the standard size (plastic push in type fuses ) from Princess Auto at a reasonable price. We also put in a bus bar. We ran a new 7way cord complete with plug in connection and tossed the old one completely. New 110 v wires and a "GFCI" outlet as well. Ran all new 12v wires and all new clearance ( marker) lights. It seemed to make sense to start with all new.
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Old 04-25-2008, 09:02 PM   #7
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Correction!! I meant to say ATC, not ATM, fuses. The 'C's are larger (easier to handle) and for some reason seem to cost less than the 'M's.
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Old 04-27-2008, 12:53 AM   #8
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Scamp has changed the site, I can't seem to find that wiring diagram, does anyone have it that can email me?
Graeme,
The scamp wiring diagram is now located in the downloadable owners manual on the scamp site:
http://scamptrailers.com/Portals/0/S...nersManual.pdf

I'm adding this because you are from Ontario.

Princess auto has a ATC fuse block for $12
I used this one:
http://bluesea.com/category/5/21/products/5028
with this main
http://bluesea.com/category/5/21/pro...e/overview/127
from here:
http://www.gencomarine.com/store/index.cfm
in Toronto.

All this might be a little overkill, but I am totally redoing the wiring. It sounds like mine was like yours. I added a battery and am in the process of connecting solar. I kept the 7 pin (updated to new standard version) because I will be adding electric brakes with a new axle this year. Some where on here I started a thread on the rewire, mostly for the power side of the connector as the tail lights is pretty standard info.

Roy




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Old 04-27-2008, 07:00 AM   #9
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I can't find the pics right now so I might have to take some more but here's a suggestion from the "frugal" side. Go to the local auto salvage/recycling yard. Ask to buy one of the fuse panels from underneath the hood of the late mid 90's ford Explorers or even something like the Crown Victoria. I got one from the Crown Vic and was able to obtain it with about 10 inches of wire from all existing connections. This provided me with pre-wired terminals and a fuse box with a cover. I had to make a few modifications to the inside main bus-bar. This option gave me a fuse panel with around 10-15 circuits available for individual circuit protection and 5 circuits that were supplied from the house battery. This also provided me with relay pockets that I could use later if I chose to do any addition of that sort as well. My total cost for this was $0.00. The salvage yard saw this one part as mostly worthless plastic. With the scrap metal prices the way they are now this might not be the case, but I wouldn't expect more than $5.
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Old 04-27-2008, 02:30 PM   #10
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Excellent idea, Dan. Likely same box in Merc Moutaineer or Ford Ranger if Explorer is pre-2002. Don't forget to add bus-bar for negative return wires.
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Old 04-27-2008, 03:04 PM   #11
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Trailer: Boler 1300 1979
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You guys have been a big help. My Boler does have brakes, but they aren't connected with any wires. Do I need brakes??? I am towing with a 2004 Montana mini-van.

I have a princess auto in ottawa so I can run up ther and get the parts. I also have access to a wreckers yard! Good to go!

I got feed up with the boler this morning and ripped out all the wiring. I now have to strat from scratch. Good thing as I found three hidden in-line fuses that I never would have been able to trace.

Here are some pictures for those interested

http://s203.photobucket.com/albums/a...Spring%202008/

I will keep you updated because I am sure that I will have lots of questions that I wil ned you help with.

Thanks again

Graeme
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Old 04-27-2008, 07:02 PM   #12
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You should check your local laws to see what applies to you.

Here in Virginia, USA, If you have electric brakes on the camper or any other trailer, you must have the unit inspected each year and the brakes must work and must have a safety disconnect.

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Old 04-28-2008, 12:17 AM   #13
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Ford manual I read recently said "The vehicle brakes are sized for the GVWR not the GCWR".

Six braked wheels are better than four braked wheels for the same load.

I found a tremendous difference between Dodge 1/2 ton pickup and Scamp 13' with and without brakes. I highly recommend brakes.
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Old 04-28-2008, 03:28 AM   #14
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Quote:
Excellent idea, Dan. Likely same box in Merc Moutaineer or Ford Ranger if Explorer is pre-2002. Don't forget to add bus-bar for negative return wires.
I forgot about that in my post. I used the "grounding bar" that is most commonly used in household breaker boxes. The ones with all of the screw bolts in them. I think I picked up a package of 2 bars that had around 10 grounding spots each for $2.99. I just screwed these down next to the fuse panels.
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