You Can Repair Fiberglass - Page 11 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 05-31-2015, 09:18 PM   #141
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Name: Kevin
Trailer: Hunter Compact Junior
Oregon
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I have a repair I could really use advice on. At some point in my trailer life, the rear either got whacked or jacked causing the frame rails to break through the fiberglass. My hope is that the repairs can be done from the inside.

I have lifted the body enough to put a 2" wide piece of metal between the rails so the body does not sink down again. I plan to take some wax paper and insert it between the frame rails and the metal with the hope that the fiberglass & resin will hold the metal in place without fusing to the rail.

Since the hole is on a curved surface, I want to take a piece of wax covered cardboard and tape in in place on the outside to act as a mold for the curve.

Does this sound possible so far? I'm really hoping I won't have to pull the body off to do the repairs from the outside.

All advice appreciated, Dave~!Click image for larger version

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Old 05-31-2015, 09:45 PM   #142
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Originally Posted by Kevin PDX View Post
I have a repair I could really use advice on. At some point in my trailer life, the rear either got whacked or jacked causing the frame rails to break through the fiberglass. My hope is that the repairs can be done from the inside.

I have lifted the body enough to put a 2" wide piece of metal between the rails so the body does not sink down again. I plan to take some wax paper and insert it between the frame rails and the metal with the hope that the fiberglass & resin will hold the metal in place without fusing to the rail.

Since the hole is on a curved surface, I want to take a piece of wax covered cardboard and tape in in place on the outside to act as a mold for the curve.

Does this sound possible so far? I'm really hoping I won't have to pull the body off to do the repairs from the outside.

All advice appreciated, Dave~!Attachment 84712Attachment 84713Attachment 84714Attachment 84715


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You can do this. You need to get the weight off this area and then repair from the rear or inside. Your cardboard idea will work excellent as a mold, so do that on the front, or outside. Be sure to wear all safety gear and sand/grind the repair area and clean first. If there is room on the inside, I would like to see you do 2, 3 layer lifts. In other words, cut 3 pieces of mat at least 2 inches larger in every direction than the size of the repair, mix the resin according to the directions on the can, paint a coat of resin on the repair, apply and fully saturate a piece of mat, repeat until you have 3 saturated pieces. Let dry. Then I would like you to grind/sand/degloss what you already repaired, clean, and repeat for 6 total layers. I feel this repair needs the support of 2 lifts, or cured 6 layers. You must do it in 2 steps, do not just put 6 layers on at once! You can do this....get fiberglassing!!!!!

Fiberglass Dave
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Old 05-31-2015, 11:03 PM   #143
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Dave, got a question for you about this repair. I understand the matting but wouldn't you want to use at least one layer of cloth also?
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Old 06-01-2015, 03:00 AM   #144
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You can do this. You need to get the weight off this area and then repair from the rear or inside. Your cardboard idea will work excellent as a mold, so do that on the front, or outside. Be sure to wear all safety gear and sand/grind the repair area and clean first. If there is room on the inside, I would like to see you do 2, 3 layer lifts. In other words, cut 3 pieces of mat at least 2 inches larger in every direction than the size of the repair, mix the resin according to the directions on the can, paint a coat of resin on the repair, apply and fully saturate a piece of mat, repeat until you have 3 saturated pieces. Let dry. Then I would like you to grind/sand/degloss what you already repaired, clean, and repeat for 6 total layers. I feel this repair needs the support of 2 lifts, or cured 6 layers. You must do it in 2 steps, do not just put 6 layers on at once! You can do this....get fiberglassing!!!!!

Fiberglass Dave

Thanks, Dave! I was hoping I was on the right track just needed a little reassurance and confidence boost.


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Old 06-07-2015, 07:34 PM   #145
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Hello, I recently obtained a really neat old Nationwide cargo trailer. I guess you used to rent these (like U-haul) and use for moving or camping. I am thinking about fixing some of the fiberglass and specifically around the superimposed Nationwide Logo (United States). It is cracking (not all the way through) on the outside shell of the area. I dont see anything in this thread this light and any advice would be great! Also, let me know if you know anything about these molded fibgerglass trailers! Dustin



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Old 06-07-2015, 09:23 PM   #146
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Hello, I recently obtained a really neat old Nationwide cargo trailer. I guess you used to rent these (like U-haul) and use for moving or camping. I am thinking about fixing some of the fiberglass and specifically around the superimposed Nationwide Logo (United States). It is cracking (not all the way through) on the outside shell of the area. I dont see anything in this thread this light and any advice would be great! Also, let me know if you know anything about these molded fibgerglass trailers! Dustin



Nationwide Logo Photo by dus10panthers | Photobucket
These cracks are superficial and need nothing unless it is for cosmetic reason, then clean out crack, fill with bondo type filler, prime and paint
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Old 06-07-2015, 10:26 PM   #147
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Dave, any advice on filling small rivet holes? I applied resin/mat from the inside and then bondo filler from the outside but as I sand down it appears the bondo is not filling the wholes like it should and I am having to redo many of them. Using the bondo spreaders I am flexing the spreader as I spread over the hole completely covering it then let it dry then come back to sand. I thought maybe the holes were to small for the filler completely get in there so I thought about opening them up a little to the shape of a dome before filling...any ideas would be appreciated...also on the topic of bondo (this brand specifically) what color should the bondo be when I follow the directions with a golf ball size amount and about 1 1/4" line of the activator in the tube? I have tried a little more or less as it is setting or hardening extremely fast like in 2 to 3 minutes (Georgia heat in the 80 to 90's) and faster in direct sun...will it hurt if I use less of the activator in the tube than the directions say to? When sanding, some spots even after overnight to cure, I get gooey spots stuck to the sand paper, is this normal?
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Old 06-08-2015, 10:05 AM   #148
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Dave, any advice on filling small rivet holes? I applied resin/mat from the inside and then bondo filler from the outside but as I sand down it appears the bondo is not filling the wholes like it should and I am having to redo many of them. Using the bondo spreaders I am flexing the spreader as I spread over the hole completely covering it then let it dry then come back to sand. I thought maybe the holes were to small for the filler completely get in there so I thought about opening them up a little to the shape of a dome before filling...any ideas would be appreciated...also on the topic of bondo (this brand specifically) what color should the bondo be when I follow the directions with a golf ball size amount and about 1 1/4" line of the activator in the tube? I have tried a little more or less as it is setting or hardening extremely fast like in 2 to 3 minutes (Georgia heat in the 80 to 90's) and faster in direct sun...will it hurt if I use less of the activator in the tube than the directions say to? When sanding, some spots even after overnight to cure, I get gooey spots stuck to the sand paper, is this normal?
Good questions
By flexing the applicator you are digging out the hole...overfill and sand smooth...or scrape flush with a razor blade
If the bondo is hardening too quickly, cut back on the hardener. However, you must mix thoroughly or you will have the gooey parts uncured...not good...
By the way, we don't use bondo brand filler in the shop. I use that term and recommend Bondo only because it works, it's cheap and almost the only thing people can get at the box stores.
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Old 06-08-2015, 10:18 AM   #149
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Good questions
By flexing the applicator you are digging out the hole...overfill and sand smooth...or scrape flush with a razor blade
If the bondo is hardening too quickly, cut back on the hardener. However, you must mix thoroughly or you will have the gooey parts uncured...not good...
By the way, we don't use bondo brand filler in the shop. I use that term and recommend Bondo only because it works, it's cheap and almost the only thing people can get at the box stores.
Thanks Dave, I will try this today and we hopefully will be finishing up the body work sometime later today. As regards to cutting back on the hardner, is it possible to use to little hardner? Should it be more towards the gray side or more pinkish when mixed correctly?
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Old 06-19-2015, 02:14 PM   #150
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Name: Ben
Trailer: Harney
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I have an RV that has what I would call a "weird" failure of the fiberglass surface. It looks like the aftermath when someone pops a zit, and shouldn't have.
I posted pictures on IRV2, and hope it is ok to link to it:
Delamination / water damage? - iRV2 Forums

Someone suggested that it looks like excessively long screws were used inside to attach things. I cannot prove that theory. Kind of wondering how to attach this. Shown is the worst area. The wood under the outside seems swolen, but there is not sign of any water entry anywhere. My initial thought was to cut away the damaged skin, remove some of the swolen wood, and fill with resin/cloth. I know this is not going to look correct without paint, and we may do that after we prove that the repairs are permanent.

I could really use advice since nobody I ask seems to know what caused it nor how to fix it.
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Old 06-20-2015, 07:18 PM   #151
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Hi Ben and welcome to the group.
Unfortunately this is a site for MOLDED fiberglass RV's and it appears that you have sheet/composite fiberglass construction which is an entirely different bird.


You might want to cast about on some of the sites for that type of construction.
Good Luck
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Old 06-21-2015, 08:36 AM   #152
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Are you sure that it is fiberglass and not aluminum? Aluminum can corrode from reactions with other contacted metals...
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Old 06-21-2015, 09:15 AM   #153
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Yep, certainly doesn't look like fiberglass - it looks like aluminium that has been dented from the inside by sharp objects. The dents even appear to have stretched the skin out over large areas, which can't be done with fiberglass.
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Old 06-21-2015, 09:52 AM   #154
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Yep, certainly doesn't look like fiberglass - it looks like aluminium that has been dented from the inside by sharp objects. The dents even appear to have stretched the skin out over large areas, which can't be done with fiberglass.
I may be wrong on this but I am pretty sure from the pictures, that what appears to be dents is actually corrosion that has caused the aluminum to bubble up from underneath the surface due to contact with either a different aluminum alloy or some other type of metal all together...this will be a difficult fix as you will have to not only make the repair but also prevent it from re-occurring by putting something between the different metals to prevent them from reacting with each other, like maybe a rubber gasket where they meet?
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