You Can Repair Fiberglass - Page 18 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 08-31-2016, 12:09 AM   #239
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Name: Miro
Trailer: Predom (Cadet)
Croatia
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Sorry...cant tell what this is or where it is on the trailer. Fiberglass Dave
Thanks for really quick replay

It is the door wing, next to the door lock. The damage is between the door lock and the door frame.

Thanks in advance
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Old 08-31-2016, 09:05 AM   #240
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Name: Dave
Trailer: Trails West Campster, CampStar, Uhaul, Fiberstream
Washington
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Dave, please, advice on how to repair this. It looks like somebody tried to brake into the trailer
I see by the other picture that there is some fiberglassing by the previous owner. This repair is easy and you can do it. Just look over this thread to get familiar...sand, clean, mask areas you don't want resin on and fiberglass away from the back. After it is cured, sand off the excess and use bondo type filler to smooth if you want. I would also sand down and redo the other previous repair to make it all look nice...Wear safety stuff and get to it....Fiberglass Dave
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Old 08-31-2016, 01:28 PM   #241
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Thanks again, Dave.
The plan is to sand all the patches made buy previous owner. There's lot of other spots to repair before painting, not only the door.
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Old 09-02-2016, 06:28 PM   #242
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Name: Tonnie
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This is going to be a great resource. Thank you for taking the time to share your knowledge Dave!
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Old 09-02-2016, 08:01 PM   #243
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[QUOTE=Tonnie;607010]This is going to be a great resource. Thank you for taking the time to share your knowledge Dave![/QUOTE


Thank you. Instead of paying my shop or someone else's $120 an hour, I hope anyone can repair their trailer by themselves and get on the road cheaply with the feeling of accomplishment and maybe get camping sooner instead of waiting and saving.
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Old 09-03-2016, 08:35 AM   #244
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Name: Tonnie
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Dave,

At some point in the not too distant future, I will need to enlarge or move the vent hole to install a fantastic fan in our 13' Scamp. Your fiberglassing classes will be very helpful!

Thanks!
Tonnie
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Old 09-03-2016, 01:52 PM   #245
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Trailer: 1975 Ventura
Manitoba
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Floor strengthening?

The floor in my trailer was bad enough that I took it out and replaced it with new marine plywood, glued in with resin on the bottom. The floor still has too much bounce for my liking and I am wondering if putting resin on the top surface and letting it soak in and then putting a cover of mat and resin over the whole surface would stiffen the plywood enough to help with the flexing. If that would help, could I also bond a layer of thin and light wood underlayment to the floor to give a smooth surface for the tiles I will be using?
As far as I can see the only other option is to do something to the frame underneath to provide more support.
Thanks in advance.
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Old 09-03-2016, 02:46 PM   #246
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Trailer: 1980 18' Sunrader Motorhome and 1971 Trails West CampMite Campster
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The floor in my trailer was bad enough that I took it out and replaced it with new marine plywood, glued in with resin on the bottom. The floor still has too much bounce for my liking and I am wondering if putting resin on the top surface and letting it soak in and then putting a cover of mat and resin over the whole surface would stiffen the plywood enough to help with the flexing. If that would help, could I also bond a layer of thin and light wood underlayment to the floor to give a smooth surface for the tiles I will be using?
As far as I can see the only other option is to do something to the frame underneath to provide more support.
Thanks in advance.
A little bounce and some flexing is perfectly OK in a trailer floor. Keeping things lightweight is more important than having it feel super solid like the floor in a house does. It is a different world with different rules and parameters of what works and what does not. I know you are not used to it but it is actually fine for it to be that way, you won't fall through the floor.
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Old 09-04-2016, 08:45 AM   #247
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But as a concept, would it work to stiffen/strengthen the floor?
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Old 09-04-2016, 09:32 AM   #248
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But as a concept, would it work to stiffen/strengthen the floor?
Bad idea
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Old 09-04-2016, 10:19 AM   #249
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Okay then, bounce it is. Bad idea? Granted, but the really bad idea was to buy the **** trailer in the first place.
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Old 09-04-2016, 11:19 AM   #250
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But as a concept, would it work to stiffen/strengthen the floor?
If it is bonded well to the plywood then yeas it would stiffrn the floor.I covered the new 3/4 inch exterior plywood floor when I replaced the floor in my 16' Scamp.
I covered the ply with 6. oz. fiberglass cloth and bonded it with Epoxy resin.
I did top and bottom ans especially the sides. I rounded the edges so that the fiberglass would follow the contour since it really doesn't like to go around sharp corners.
The top of the covering will be in compression ao if it is not thicker and well bonded it won't help much.
The bottom will be in tension and the wood in the middle just keeps the space from changing, adding stiffness.
Also the floors tend to rot out from water on the top and not on the bottom so much.
I covered the ply before I installed it and then bonded it to the shell along the sides with strip of cloth and epoxy.
I was also careful to epoxy and cover all penetrations through the floor because the problems start when the center plies of the wood get moisture in them.
I have has leaks while building and resealing the windows and was just faced with puddles on the top of the fiberglass floor which wipe up easily.
No penetration into the wood.
The Casita and others that sandwich wood between fiberglass shells are a different thing altogether since the fiberglass is NOT bonded to the wood leaving space for the water to sit and soak into the wood and rot.
My floors are monolithic in that the fiberglass is bonded with epoxy all around with no space for the water to get in and sit.
So far I have not seen any floors rot from the bottom, but many places in mine where there were unprotected penetrations and leaks tha kept the floor wet from the top.
If I were you I would lay fabric on the top and bond to the shell and cover the floor and I would spend the extra money on epoxy since it will resist moisture better than the polyester, but others disagree.
The Scamp factory sprays polyester resin on the floor and it does not do the job.
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Old 09-04-2016, 03:50 PM   #251
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Trailer: Trails West Campster, CampStar, Uhaul, Fiberstream
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Okay then, bounce it is. Bad idea? Granted, but the really bad idea was to buy the **** trailer in the first place.
I have felt your frustration. Without seeing it, I can't understand the problem if you used the same thickness of plywood. I don't agree with you however on the idea of "gluing" the floor in with resin. Resin is not a glue and doesn't work at all as one. It needs mat for strength. I wonder if the resin has broken loose and is contributing to the bounce. It is also worthy of noting that it is extremely hard to step through a plywood floor. I would check the floor for a good glue job and for proper support underneath first. Give it a couple days before throwing in the towel. These campers really are fun when they become campable and you will feel accomplishment when laying in the bed camping and knowing that you fixed that fun piece of gear rather that spending 50K on a new piece of junk that becomes worth half driving it off the lot and spends months on end waiting for the dealer to fix what wasn't done right. Just my humble opinion....Fiberglass Dave
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Old 09-04-2016, 04:15 PM   #252
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The Burro floor is different from the Scamp and others so I could not offer detained comparison with the way I did my Scamp.
In my case I started out to make as light a trailer as possible, but then reality (and wife's wants) struck and it became a case of making it as reliable as possible.
I rewired, redesigned the interior, from the Axle to the roof vent.
part was a complete new floor. This floor was fiberglassed as described above and when I installed it I bedded the floor on the steel with a polyurethane glue to both keep water and bugs out and bond to the steel frame.
That frame was wirebrushed and painted with epoxy zinc rich Rustoeleum paint.
The ply was screwed with self tapping screws at an interval spacing half of the original.
A little epoxy was brushed over the heads to seal the ply there.
I also added steel reinforcement along the edges of the shell and also reworked the front frame to fit in a center front bath,
You have the opportunity to make the Burro your own, but it will be a lot of work and expense.
I have a little more than I paid for the trailer to get it ready for the road and i still have the outside to paint.
One of the best things I did was getting the things AC working so that I could stand to work in it with the heat here in South Alabama.
Here is a picture of the mess I made in the pursuit of the Scamp:
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