You Can Repair Fiberglass - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 06-14-2012, 01:11 PM   #15
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Thank You! Thank You! Thank You!

Very useful information!

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Old 06-14-2012, 06:48 PM   #16
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Great thread! Very well done. Thank you, I'm following with interest!
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Old 06-14-2012, 09:58 PM   #17
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Trailer: Trails West Campster, CampStar, Uhaul, Fiberstream
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Now it's time to do the front of this repair. Sand a ditch with a grinder on the seams to give a place for 2 layers of mat. Safely put the two layers in and allow to dry. You're now ready for bodywork, which will be in another thread. Notice I ground a ditch and put mat in the screw holes. Never just use bondo for holes.
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fiber 001.JPG   fiber 003.JPG  

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Old 06-14-2012, 10:02 PM   #18
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Waiting for pictures of your U haul
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Old 06-14-2012, 11:02 PM   #19
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Wow! GREAT tutorial, good pics, too! You write very well and you teach very well.

And I am learning ! <_<
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Old 06-15-2012, 01:38 AM   #20
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Dave,
I am very much appreciating this info, having done many repairs myself, and will
put some of your tips into use...Thanks Indeed for your sharing with us!
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Old 06-15-2012, 05:25 AM   #21
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Excellent thread.
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Old 07-01-2012, 03:28 PM   #22
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Nicely done Dave

I have a couple of questions. I have worked with FRP quite a bit myself for prototyping mostly. Good point about mixing containers. I once mixed material in what I think was some sort of waxed container and it stayed sticky forever. Lesson learned. I like to use tin foil trays. I find pouring the resin out in a thin layer also helps it from going into exo therm prematurely.

I am not sure the best way to deal with the numerous cracks I have above my front window , rear window and around the rear sides. The door has a few too. These are a bit more than star cracks. They seem to have a little "lift" to them. I could probably stand them flat and fill but I fear the problem will reoccur shortly. I think I may need to rough sand and cover with cloth or veil (I notice you don`t advice) and fill. I would prefer to reinforce from behind but that is pretty hard with a 73 trillium.

I am also working on a sportmobile roof with a gazzion pinholes on the edges of the roof rails. I ran a wooden ruler over the edges and broke them open, then filled with gelcoat. Painful.Not sure what you might have done ...other than not break them open.

Thanks
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Old 07-01-2012, 05:37 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PhillyPhixy View Post
Nicely done Dave

I have a couple of questions. I have worked with FRP quite a bit myself for prototyping mostly. Good point about mixing containers. I once mixed material in what I think was some sort of waxed container and it stayed sticky forever. Lesson learned. I like to use tin foil trays. I find pouring the resin out in a thin layer also helps it from going into exo therm prematurely.

I am not sure the best way to deal with the numerous cracks I have above my front window , rear window and around the rear sides. The door has a few too. These are a bit more than star cracks. They seem to have a little "lift" to them. I could probably stand them flat and fill but I fear the problem will reoccur shortly. I think I may need to rough sand and cover with cloth or veil (I notice you don`t advice) and fill. I would prefer to reinforce from behind but that is pretty hard with a 73 trillium.

I am also working on a sportmobile roof with a gazzion pinholes on the edges of the roof rails. I ran a wooden ruler over the edges and broke them open, then filled with gelcoat. Painful.Not sure what you might have done ...other than not break them open.

Thanks
It's hard to give a direct answer about cracks, other than you need to determine why the gelcoat cracked in the first place. On the uhaul here, the cracks were caused from the po jamming the ill fitting and too large furnace into place. That stress won't be repeated, so deep sanding and filling with filler is acceptable (however in this case it was reinforced from the rear also)...If you're unsure why the cracks have happened, then you should grind them out deeply and fill with mat (not veil, no strength there)and resin. Most cracks have happened either from snow load, or more commonly, something pushed in the fiberglass at that point once, and it won't continually happen again. All bets are off when the cracks are around hinges or some other load bearing things. Structural corrective action is required before repairing the cracks, as the cracks will soon reappear. Excellent question.
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Old 07-02-2012, 11:18 AM   #24
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Thanks for the response Dave

Good point about why the cracks were created. I often seen (and have) star cracks in my truck topper from hitting it from the inside. Snow load is a good reason but it seems that the cracks are too close to the windows and on the curve to be the culprit. When I first got it, I noticed that the wooden frames were rotten and I since replaced them. Hopefully that was it. (they don`t seem to be getting worse).
My resistance to want to use matte in that area is that I think I can get a more consistant surface with cloth (or 3-4 veil) and less filling/sanding in the end. I also think that cloth has better flexibility and strength for large "straight" areas like that. Let me know if I am off the rails here.

BTW I was just doing some glassing and another tip I think worth noting:

I use talcum powder to dip my sticky gloves in when I am glassing. Helps to keep you sane. Also put some on the sweaty hands to make it easier to get the gloves on and off.
I throw the unused catalyzed mix into a 5 gal metal bucket filled with water to prevent forest fires.
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Old 07-02-2012, 11:58 AM   #25
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What if you have a 6x6" sized hole to fill, but don't have 'waste' pieces of fiberglass with which to fill the hole? We were considering filling the furnace vent hole if we decide against putting a new furnace in, but I don't have any pieces of waste fb to use. I gather I would need to layer the fb matting until the desired thickness is reached, but how do I 'back it' so that it doesn't fall through? Or what about for smaller holes, like a 1" round puncture? What do I 'back it' with so the resin etc., doesn't drip through the other side?

I have 2 'dents' on either side of my roof. They are visibly indented and cracked, but not gaping holes. The ensolite is still glued and intact on the inside. I'm not sure how I could go about fixing these as they are on a curved portion of the roof. Do I sand them down? Cut them out? What do I use to support behind that will provide the proper curve when repairing?

You also said not to use 'just bondo' to fill screw holes. What should be used? I have quite a few extra holes in my shell that need to be filled.

Sorry for all the questions ... but I'm terrified of doing this part of my repairs and just want to do it correctly! Thank you for taking the time to post this excellent thread!
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Old 07-02-2012, 02:53 PM   #26
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Trailer: 2001 Scamp 13'
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I'm putting in a new top vent/fan. I took out the old, but the new one's hole don't line up at all.

Anyone have tips for repairing 20 or so rivet holes?? Resin won't stay in the hole long enough to harden. Some sort of epoxy putty? Perhaps with some small fibers in it for strength? Stuff a tiny ball of glass mat each hole and put a few drops of resin on there?

Worse case I guess I just caulk them.
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Old 07-02-2012, 03:23 PM   #27
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dylanear, I filled some holes like you describe with resin. I duct taped the back side of the hole so the resin would stay in place and harden. If you scroll down on this thread, it shows how I filled in my skylight. 1976 scamp restoration .
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Old 07-02-2012, 06:28 PM   #28
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Cool, I was thinking about tape, but feared the resin would melt through it. But if duct tape worked for you....

Very nice restoration sir!

P.S. I dig your photography BTW.
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