You Can Repair Fiberglass - Page 21 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 09-26-2016, 10:47 PM   #281
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Name: John
Trailer: Boler
Deep South
Posts: 674
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Fiberglass Dave I am sad to hear this but I think I understand your decision. I know you don't want others posting misleading or incorrect information. But I have thoroughly enjoyed your posts and the help to my questions here as well as the many others. Your tutorials were excellent and I don't think I would have tried the extensive fiberglass repairs to our '71 Boler without your help here. I had hoped you would do a separate thread on the topic of finishing work & painting fiberglass...Hope to see you down the road somewhere camping...
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Old 09-27-2016, 06:28 AM   #282
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Name: Gordon
Trailer: Scamp (16 Std Layout 4) with '15 Toyota Sienna LE Tug
North Carolina
Posts: 1,273
May I suggest that a blog over which you have full control would be the best way to keep the discussion focused the way you want and avoid those issues that have prompted the decision to no longer use this forum for your advice.
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Old 09-27-2016, 08:47 AM   #283
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Name: Terry
Trailer: 1996 Casita Freedom Deluxe 17 ft
Colorado
Posts: 374
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Originally Posted by D White View Post
After much deliberation, I will no longer be posting or answering questions here. I know many people have fixed their own trailers because of this thread and there is plenty of information here for all of you to try it on your own do it well. Remember fiberglass is very forgiving and if your repair doesn't turn out the way you want, grind it out and redo it til it does...YOU CAN DO IT
Fiberglass Dave
I'm sorry to hear this but understand your reasons. Fiberglass is a skill and your advice was spot on. Thanks to your instructions, I was finally able able to remove the front air conditioner in my 1996 Casita along with the flimsy grill and floppy fabric cover that went over it. The repair was fairly easy--I taped some thin fiberglass over the hole along with some wax paper. Then I applied three layers of mat from the inside. After some Bondo, the patch perfectly matches the contours and is undetectable. Thanks again. I couldn't have done it without you.
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Old 09-27-2016, 09:15 AM   #284
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Name: JD
Trailer: Scamp
Alabama
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Dave I am sorry you feel this way, but it is your choice and one can respect that.
However I feel that you are being a little thin skinned over differing points of view on this subject.
The give and take makes the world go around and offers some other, possibly good ideas.
Your point of view is valid and you offer good advice and you will be missed.
Other's ideas may well be good as well.
However I don't think that you can dictate where the thread will go or what might be added or subtracted. That is the way of the 'net these days.
Share you great experience and you do a good thing.
There is, however, more than one way to skin a cat, if it be a cat that needed skinning.
At any rate I would wish that you stay around and contribute as your insight is very valuable.
If you choose not to then I wish you all of the best and you will be missed.
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Old 10-02-2016, 06:28 PM   #285
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Name: Jonathan
Trailer: Dog Grooming buses
California
Posts: 12
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Originally Posted by D White View Post
After much deliberation, I will no longer be posting or answering questions here. I know many people have fixed their own trailers because of this thread and there is plenty of information here for all of you to try it on your own do it well. Remember fiberglass is very forgiving and if your repair doesn't turn out the way you want, grind it out and redo it til it does...YOU CAN DO IT
Fiberglass Dave
Damn....you're the only resource I trusted....
I'm on Amazon right now trying to figure out if I need epoxy resin or if there is just "regular resin" I'm supposed to get, and what weight mat I need to finally get after this hole in my grooming rig.
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Old 10-02-2016, 08:47 PM   #286
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Name: Terry
Trailer: 1996 Casita Freedom Deluxe 17 ft
Colorado
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Originally Posted by FoxyRoxys View Post
Damn....you're the only resource I trusted....
I'm on Amazon right now trying to figure out if I need epoxy resin or if there is just "regular resin" I'm supposed to get, and what weight mat I need to finally get after this hole in my grooming rig.
I believe the correct answer is polyester resin, from an earlier post. If you buy the Bondo resin and mat at your local Home Depot, you should be fine. That's what I used and my project turned out great.
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Old 10-04-2016, 08:32 AM   #287
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Name: Amy
Trailer: BigFoot
Alberta
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Old 10-13-2016, 05:38 PM   #288
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Name: Jonathan
Trailer: Dog Grooming buses
California
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I have all the materials and I'm up here taking a closer look at the situation. I have the next 5 days to tackle this job before it needs to get back on the road again.
I want to share some more detailed pictures in hopes of getting some more advice. The layers seem to have split/separated into a upper and lower levels for lack of a better description...do I try and bond these layers together again with the resin? Cut out the upper and do my layup onto the lower? What's the best way here?
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Old 10-13-2016, 05:48 PM   #289
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Name: Jonathan
Trailer: Dog Grooming buses
California
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Also, I can't really get to the "underside" (inside the van) without causing more damage to the interior, should I lay the wax paper down on that wood you see in the picture up there^^ for the backer and then push/prop it up from the inside? Or do I need to tear that piece out and really get a backer formed perfectly up in there?
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Old 10-13-2016, 05:52 PM   #290
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Name: K C
Trailer: 1980 18' Sunrader Motorhome and 1971 Trails West CampMite Campster
Washington
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Originally Posted by FoxyRoxys View Post
I have all the materials and I'm up here taking a closer look at the situation. I have the next 5 days to tackle this job before it needs to get back on the road again.
I want to share some more detailed pictures in hopes of getting some more advice. The layers seem to have split/separated into a upper and lower levels for lack of a better description...do I try and bond these layers together again with the resin? Cut out the upper and do my layup onto the lower? What's the best way here?
The answer to your question about how to handle the delaminated areas is in this article. Fiberglass Repair by Don Casey - BoatTECH - BoatUS
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Old 10-13-2016, 05:58 PM   #291
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Name: K C
Trailer: 1980 18' Sunrader Motorhome and 1971 Trails West CampMite Campster
Washington
Posts: 816
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Originally Posted by FoxyRoxys View Post
Also, I can't really get to the "underside" (inside the van) without causing more damage to the interior, should I lay the wax paper down on that wood you see in the picture up there^^ for the backer and then push/prop it up from the inside? Or do I need to tear that piece out and really get a backer formed perfectly up in there?
You know what is the right way to do the job. Wishful thinking won't change it. Getting it wrong and having resin run into your interior is going to make a real mess of the interior so you can't risk having that happen.

A backer also functions as a containment dam.
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Old 10-13-2016, 06:17 PM   #292
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Name: JD
Trailer: Scamp
Alabama
Posts: 792
Can you post a picture of the area (if you haven't already).
It is possible to glue the shards together, but you may be better off building up an plug to form that corner and glass over it.
since the plug will be "trapped" in the corner you might want to think about using some strips of styrofoam to get the shape correct and use an open cheese grated rasp to shape it. The edge of the cut out need to be beveled at at least 7:1 so that there is sufficient bonding area to hold without reinforcing from the rear.
If you use polyester be sure to coat the exposed styrofoam with artists Gesso or something to protect the foam from the resin. The polyester will dissolve the styrofoam.
Personally I use Epoxy because I have that for the aircraft work I do from time to time, but for this application there would not be enough difference to worry about.
Make the male plug smaller than the finished surface to allow for build up of the plies.
After the first layers you can look at the result and adjust as necessary.
It may be easier to dig from the inside to get to the back side than making the plug from the outside.
You pays your money and takes your choice.
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Old 10-13-2016, 06:38 PM   #293
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Name: Jonathan
Trailer: Dog Grooming buses
California
Posts: 12
This us a picture from the inside. Both the soft material and the hard overlay are one continuous sheet that goes off to the left over that partition into the adjoining cabinet area, so that's why I don't really want to take entire cabinet apart. I'll remove all of the vinyl wrap around the damage and try to push and pull and prod it all back into the best shape possible and share that picture afterwards...
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Old 10-13-2016, 08:37 PM   #294
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Name: Jonathan
Trailer: Dog Grooming buses
California
Posts: 12
Here are the cleaned up pictures. I have to push down on this front(right of the picture) flap to get it to sit right.
The fringe edges I can't get to fit back under the broken edges. Do I cut those off? My instincts are to cut every edge clean so that I have smooth even lines and then take a wire wheel to get all the strands off. I feel like these instincts are not correct for fiberglass repair

Where this big hole is, I think I can get a board pressed up in there for backing, friend of mine suggested a duct tape backing, I'm not too comfortable with that...

Do I need to remove (grind away) all the white top coat and get to the pink FG? Or does that not matter?

For the most part, it's in place, however when I add the layers on, its going to be raised (relative to the surrounding structure) is this ok, or an I still looking to grind away at the pieces to remove thickness in preparation for the repair layers? I feel like grinding it down will cause major thickness differences in the places it separated vs. just cracked open
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