You Can Repair Fiberglass - Page 22 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 10-13-2016, 07:46 PM   #295
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Name: JD
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This is why you have to feather the edges to have space to build up the plies and the form or whatever has to be the size of the "inside" of the section you are building up.
If you figured the wall setion was 3/16 then make it that much further inser and upu start by laying up a layer or so at a time.
You might have to lay up strips a couple of inches wide to get the shape to conform to the shape you wand.
If ypu screw up then grind it back off and start again
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Old 10-17-2016, 03:32 PM   #296
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So I'm sanding it down after the weekend of rain and wind we had here and wondering if I should have a grinder with a hard wheel instead of my palm sander with 60grit paper?

I'm beginning to be concerned with my ability to deal with the multi layers and multi angles of this repair. I feel like grinding low enough to build back up will just grind through the top broken (separated) layers, I've attached a video to help explain what I'm worried about. How should I move forward?
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Old 10-17-2016, 05:43 PM   #297
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I know what I would do about those big pieces that are basically sound but flopping around. Clean up the shredded edges on those pieces and the adjacent ones and then place some "basting stitches" along the edges of the big pieces and the adjacent one to it using some fine wire to hold them in the correct surface plane with the adjacent edges.
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Old 10-31-2016, 02:14 PM   #298
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Got the grinder, got the flap disc, got it ground down, partially propped up (the 2 large flaps are screwed together) with towels in a plastic garbage bag underneath. Now trying to figure out what to do with these little flappy pieces right here in the front (the side of the the bus). They have no backing rigidity, but the form the angle of the side perfectly, all I want to keep them. Any suggestions on the backing for those little flaps? Piece of luan screwed on from underneath? Towels in a bag also (propped up underneath with some wood?
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20161031_124943.jpg   20161031_125103.jpg  

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Old 06-21-2017, 08:54 PM   #299
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Name: Lisa
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Hi Jonathan,
I know you have probably fixed your groomers bus, but I thought you might like an uneducated suggestion. I have never done FBG, but after reading D Whites thread I am ready to try. Have you considered using the opposite, and hopefully undamaged, corner of your bus to make a mold for the corner you need to repair? If you can, I would cover the undamaged section with something the mat and resin would not stick to, waxed paper maybe? Lay on your mat, soak and stipple it with resin. After it hardens, you should be able to flip it over (180 degrees) to match the damaged corner. Then trim your "mold", cut out the damaged glass section, prepare the mold to place three layers of mat and resin inside to form your new corner. After all that you will have a new corner piece, so you can taper the edges of the damaged area and your new corner, then just glass it in place.

I would love to see how your repair turned out, and to quote D White, Work Safe.
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Old 06-30-2017, 06:24 PM   #300
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What a fantastic thread! Learned tons just reading through the pages.
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Old 07-01-2017, 12:03 AM   #301
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Originally Posted by Lisa in FL View Post
Hi Jonathan,
I know you have probably fixed your groomers bus, but I thought you might like an uneducated suggestion. I have never done FBG, but after reading D Whites thread I am ready to try. Have you considered using the opposite, and hopefully undamaged, corner of your bus to make a mold for the corner you need to repair? If you can, I would cover the undamaged section with something the mat and resin would not stick to, waxed paper maybe? Lay on your mat, soak and stipple it with resin. After it hardens, you should be able to flip it over (180 degrees) to match the damaged corner. Then trim your "mold", cut out the damaged glass section, prepare the mold to place three layers of mat and resin inside to form your new corner. After all that you will have a new corner piece, so you can taper the edges of the damaged area and your new corner, then just glass it in place.

I would love to see how your repair turned out, and to quote D White, Work Safe.
Your train of thought using existing shapes and wax paper as a mold is exactly how I made a new skin for the inside of my Boler door. The shape was perfect using the curve of the outside of the door to make the skin for the inside....
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Old 07-01-2017, 01:48 PM   #302
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Jonathan, Lisa.

Some experience I have, may make my opinions less than random. I repaired a 74 Boler . It had been rear ended. into the seats for a few inches. It has an interior back wall 6" separation at the bottom, from out side of "egg" tapering to nothing where it meets the rear window at the top. A distance of about 2 ' interior floor to the window bottom. 1' long crack, & big spiderweb 1' circle, the upper corners of the rear window All interior fur covered surfaces sprayed with the red contact cement, & attached "rat fur". Repaired interior short wall and back edges of benches from outside the window, just reached in thru the hole. The damaged area; window bottom edge, down to the bumper & 4"s into the seating on each side. Re did the gel coat on the interior rebuild. Fixed two gallon size holes on the front corners.
Now looking at the damage to your bus. Copying the opposite top corner and flipping it over will not work because they are asymmetrical. They can't be flipped, left to right. If the corner on opposite side, diagonal is the same it would be a good copy. The flapping pieces have been over stressed at the bend and will always be a weak point, if there were body twist. I would remove pieces like this at the bends. When replacing a piece where there is a hole, ( not just a sanded skin ), it should be set recessed into the opening so that it is in the same plane. It should be of the same thickness not just one cloth thick, mat alone would be difficult to smooth, and finish. copy with layers to match the current thickness. The openings can be cut square edged but tapered for an inch or so at about 1degree.
There is so much sanded from the present surface that this might be a moot topic.
When setting pieces just make sure they don't create a lump that will look very bad when it catches angled light. This edge must be backed; 1/4 inch ply would work but it must be bound to the interior face.
Must remove contact cement. Your grinder would have been good for this, orbital sanding is very slow. use of thinners is so so.
The fabricated piece must be set on top of where it will go and existing face (skin) must then be removed, where it is in conflict.
put a glass mat backing behind the mating surface (existing) held in place by 1/8" or 1/4" ply; also 4"s wide The mat can be 4"s ,( try to use square lines 90 degree corners, 45 degrees, or std. protractor curve #s or correct circle pieces; wild shaped edges will be impossible to fit without major cloth edge feathering.) 2"S under the edge of the existing surface and protruding out from the edge 2"s, to be under the piece being set on top. make by cutting pieces, 4"s wide by x"s long, coat and place piece on non stick plastic. The wood support, used to pull the glass tight to the back side is pulled close by screws thru the face, ( screws ) removed when resin is set. Ply piece on skin will keep the screws from pulling thru, clean squash out at the edge, so the inserted piece will fit well. With the backers in place the pattern can be set straight in place. Pattern must be put on top of where it will go, cut it to the shape required and then transfer the shape to the bus so it can have excess skin removed, ( this should be done before the fiberglass backer is put under the skin.)
I removed fur back to side windows sanded the interior 2' in dynamiter at the top of window both sides added mat. Sanded outside skin, put cloth in place with about a 1+ feathered edge so it would blend into the skin. (Which had been sanded down about one thickness of cloth.)
If large piece is not available copy a couple of feet of the side of bus curve at top, & a partial corner. Use center section of top crushed area on the right clean on the left copy it by covering with plastic on top of the crushed area & the good side, 2' +- the size of the shape is what is important. not the look of the underside surface on top of broken ski. just need the curve.
I think the your top is overly sanded. It will be very distorted, if a corner as Lisa suggests is not available. If it is available, do not set it on top of what is there, try to get firm strait lines. A corner may need to be made by copying something with a close radius.
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Old 07-04-2017, 06:38 PM   #303
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Originally Posted by dylanear View Post
Anyone know major retailers where I can get fiberglass mat.
I found mat at Home Depot this morning. Lowes only had cloth.
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