You Can Repair Fiberglass - Page 6 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 08-25-2014, 12:22 PM   #71
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Originally Posted by RogerDat View Post
Tabbing in a floor wonder if I should go with chopped mat (less strength but more flexible for the curves) or woven cloth. And if chopped mat what weight?

I think Scamp originally used mat for the floor to shell seam but no idea of what weight. Also considering I'm a rookie at FG repair if cloth is inherently stronger I thought it might be more "forgiving" of my lack of skill.
USE MAT ONLY...cloth is much harder to use, not needed, and causes problems
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Old 08-25-2014, 12:36 PM   #72
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USE MAT ONLY...cloth is much harder to use, not needed, and causes problems
Any suggestion on what weight of mat? The seam FG appears to be a fairly thin layer. Looking online I see 1.5 oz. chopped mat seam tape. And for cloth mat everything from .9 oz. up to 2 oz.

It looks like buying sheet and cutting into strips is cheaper but have to wonder how easy that stuff is to cut into strips. Scissors or razor knife or ?
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Old 08-25-2014, 01:39 PM   #73
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It will cut fine with scissors, just tends to dull them quickly.
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Old 08-25-2014, 01:41 PM   #74
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Originally Posted by RogerDat View Post
Any suggestion on what weight of mat? The seam FG appears to be a fairly thin layer. Looking online I see 1.5 oz. chopped mat seam tape. And for cloth mat everything from .9 oz. up to 2 oz.

It looks like buying sheet and cutting into strips is cheaper but have to wonder how easy that stuff is to cut into strips. Scissors or razor knife or ?
I used scissors for cutting mat. Eventually they will lose sharpness, but it took awhile. I bought the mats at an Auto parts store - Bondo Brand. The mat cuts really easy and you can make strips or small pieces no problem.

I had never worked with fiberglass before, but this thread by Dave gave me the knowledge and confidence to try it myself. It worked great!

THANK YOU DAVE!

Spanke
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Old 08-25-2014, 01:58 PM   #75
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Yes, Thanks Dave!
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Old 08-25-2014, 02:58 PM   #76
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Yes, Thanks Dave!

My thanks comes from you people getting out there and trying your own fiberglass repairs. I love it when someone just tries it and figures out that ANYONE CAN DO IT and they should do it on their own. No pro needed as we say here....course let's keep it our little secret for a few more years as I still need to eat, haha

Fiberglass Dave
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Old 08-25-2014, 04:29 PM   #77
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Since I'm going to borrow DW's scissors no problem there with them getting dull.
I picked up 3/4 oz. mat for my shell to floor tabbing. But was surprised that the package said for polyester and epoxy. I thought most mat did not work with epoxy.

Also picked up some West Marine #405 silica filler (filleting blend) to make thickened resin for the belly band seam repair.
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Old 08-30-2014, 01:08 PM   #78
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What was the recommended weight for the fiberglass mats? Also, where in the Seattle area can I get these mats and supplies. I'm learning how to repair as we are starting to look at a small FGRV in the next year.
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Old 08-30-2014, 06:14 PM   #79
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What was the recommended weight for the fiberglass mats? Also, where in the Seattle area can I get these mats and supplies. I'm learning how to repair as we are starting to look at a small FGRV in the next year.
Don't worry about weights...that once again was someone overthinking and also more applies to cloth which you should never use. I wrote these repair steps taking into account what is readily available at the box stores and that makes it so anyone can do it. We would do a lot of things here at the shop different for many reasons, but you don't need to, to repair your trailer yourself cheaply and with pro results using easily obtainable materials. Thanks...Dave
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Old 08-30-2014, 06:53 PM   #80
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Thanks Dave! I'll look at the local shops for the supplies and not worry about weight of the mats.
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Old 01-14-2015, 03:30 PM   #81
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Name: Sandor
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Sorry guys, I'm new to the whole "forum thing".....that being said, I realize this one is a bit dated but still hope to hear back from someone with sound advice. Recently, my Jazz/Thor 5th wheel power cord had a melt down (thanks from above that it did not do any super significant damage). The cord end ultimately caught fire, burned out the female 30 amp twist lock connector mounted to the trailer and cause some blistering immediately above it on the fiberglass panel. The damage is limited to a relatively small area (2' x 2' tops) so not hardly worth an insurance claim. I have restored power to the RV and electrically/mechanically all is fine with the exception of the blistering on the panel. The blistering is only the outer skin but I am looking for a means to repair it myself and thought this thread may be my answer OR someone here may be able to steer me the right direction. Thanks in advance for all your help!
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Old 01-14-2015, 04:14 PM   #82
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I believe that your "Fiberglass" skin is a flat sheeting bonded to a core of some sort. Most on here are owners of "Molded Fiberglass Construction" RV's and, although the material is from the same family, repairs are somewhat different. And making any "Repairs" match the existing colors is a task of it's own.

As you have a small area to repair I might suggest trying to find a larger utility/cable access port and just cut back the damaged area. As an alternative, a piece of 1/8" aluminum, cut larger than the damaged area and used to remount the access door might also be an idea.

There are several other sites, such as IRV2.com, that are more slanted to your type of construction and they might have additional ideas.

In any event, posting a pic of the damage will help a lot.
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Old 01-14-2015, 05:21 PM   #83
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Here's a little tip from me and my experience keeping a Boston Whaler boat looking brand new.

PATCH PASTE KIT

Spectrum color makes small patch paste kits. If you have a NON STRUCTURAL crack or small pit, this stuff just goes on with a putty knife. Rough up the spot first then apply. Then you use 400 grit progressing to finer sandpaper and something like 3M Marine polish/wax to finish to a nice shine. This is the easiest thing I have found but beware...use outdoors and only use enough to fill the defect plus a slight skim. It gets very hard and the more you use, the more you will have to sand back off.

They can make this in any color if you have something to sample with. A year ago I tried to get them to add FGRV's to their colors, but they never get inquiries. Maybe they will if enough of us order it for patching. I find it invaluable for my boat and I can do a small repair NO ONE can detect. The little 2 oz. usually lasts longer than the once opened shelf life. It dries pretty fast so work quickly.
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Old 01-18-2015, 11:11 AM   #84
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Trailer: 1978 Boler 13'
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The closet in my boler previously had a piano hinge holding the door, and then various placements of other hinges.. the latest of which is wiggly. So, I have a dozen or more tiny screw holes to repair. From reading this thread, and I'm very appreciative for it, I think my steps to get started are:

1. Buy a drimmel tool so that I can sand out the many holes
2. Buy mat FG, resin, and acetone
3. Sandpaper, paper bowls, toss-away brushes
4. Safety equipment

Then,

1. Bevel out holes with drimmel
2. clean with acetone
3. apply mat FG and allow to cure

This is where I'm not sure to get that smooth glossy finish:

1. Finish with a fairing compound? Sand with a fine sandpaper?
2. Paint.
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