You Can Repair Fiberglass - Page 8 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 01-25-2015, 10:03 PM   #99
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Name: CIndy
Trailer: 82' Scamp 13
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I like the ideas about making it a hatch. The problem we are seeing with that is the curve of the scamp. At that place it curves side to side and top to bottom. Double whammy! Also it's quite large 15x22 ish.

We do plan on painting it so that's not a worry.




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Old 01-29-2015, 06:18 PM   #100
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Name: Caroline
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Just jumping on this thread now, I have never worked with fiberglass before, but I need to learn. Great thread. Thanks so much!!
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Old 01-30-2015, 12:41 PM   #101
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Caroline, this was our first foray in fiberglass too, but this group has been great with advice! The one thing we learned yesterday is that not all fiberglass mat is created equal. Bought the first batch at West Marine and went down beautiful. . Second batch was from Home Depot and was a bear. Not sure if it was a bad batch or what. Also wish we had bought the gallon of epoxy first. Have fun!


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Old 01-30-2015, 05:23 PM   #102
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Name: Caroline
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Well, I've been informed I have a "stickie"...but the repairs apply to both? Called Itasca, and they told me the skin of my roof is 1/16" thick, so I will have a hump afterwards. I cannot get to the backside of the hole. I will have to wait to post any pics, as it's pouring here in Scottsdale, but the Gorilla tape I put on 6 months ago is still holding up. Ace hardware carries mat and resin, but epoxy??
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Old 01-31-2015, 06:20 AM   #103
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Originally Posted by Cmtravels View Post
What is the best way to join the two pieces together?

I'm a bit late to this party but there may be some tricks to pass on. Limiting the 'repair' you have to do is the real challenge on a job like this and most instructions assume you have a friendly angel who will hold the piece in place while the resin hardens! Here is my suggestion - the drawing's a bit technical, but it's meant to be a slice through the joint between the old and the new at any point.

Steps are:

1. Cut the filler piece to the shape of the hole (that makes the repair as small as possible), or vice versa if easier. Taper the inside of the cut edges as much as possible - a 1 to 10 slope would be perfect, but the 1 to 3 taper shown will do. Rub down the inner surface of the filler piece and original shell with something like 80 grit sandpaper for several inches back from the joint.

2. To hold the filler piece in place until laminated, drill holes through the middle of the joint and fit small bolts with penny washers to keep the two surfaces exactly flush with each other. Do this with care as every misalignment will show later. Two or three bolts along each side should do, but more may be needed. Before installing them, coat the bolts and washers in wax to make it easier to get them out if resin gets on them. You can apply packaging tape across the outside of the joint between the bolts to stop any resin leaks - this is helpful if you haven't cut the two pieces perfectly the same.

3. Lay thin strips of fibreglass mat or tape along the vee of the joint, between the bolts. Let these harden and they should be enough to hold the filler piece in place, allowing the bolts to be removed. Do not be tempted to leave the bolts or nuts in place, as that6 will cause much more work later.

4. Finish laying up fibreglass mat or tape to more than the thickness of the original shell and overlapping the repair on the two sides - onto the areas that you sandpapered before.

5. You are now left with a small 'repair' to do along the joint on the outside to make it cosmetically acceptable. A little grinding out and adding bondo may be needed to get a smooth surface to finish. Never be tempted to widen the area that needs cosmetic repair as that makes more work to do.

In case it's not obvious, this technique can only be done from the inside - well, it could be done from the outside but then the cosmetic repair afterwards would be a huge problem.
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Old 01-31-2015, 09:07 AM   #104
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You Can Repair Fiberglass

Thanks! We kinda' did the same thing. The back of our camper looks like buck shot so we used holes that were already in the camper to brace the two pieces together with lauan. We got the inside complete. Waiting for decent FG mat from Amazon and I'll start on the outside.
First photo is the bracing.
Second is after on the inside. This was the bad FB mat we used. It came out opaque and not translucent like the first batch from West? But cured and seems strong.
Third is after the bracing was off. An auto body repair shop will not be hiring us in the future but not too bad for newbies!

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Old 02-01-2015, 09:31 PM   #105
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Help: I have a lot of screw holes in the UHaul I just bought. What is the best way to fill these? Can I use epoxy putty? Is there a tube of something made for this?
Thanks. Andy
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Old 02-21-2015, 02:55 PM   #106
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I have a different kind of repair problem. Our LiteHouse has what I think is a structural piece on the roof running the length of the trailer. The piece is attached to the roof with some sort of adhesive and pop rivets.

Backing the trailer into a space, I managed to hit a low hanging branch and cracked the end of of the structural piece. The part needing the repairs is hollow and has several angles.

I'm wondering if I should drill out the pop rivets and remove the piece to work on it, or repair it in place. Photos are attached of the crack. Any suggestions?I know that the roof is filthy. Click image for larger version

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Old 02-21-2015, 04:18 PM   #107
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repear

looks like fiberglass ,what is under it ? if it is just another skin I would stuff it with cardboard and hand lay fiberglass cloth to about 1/4 inch then sand and paint
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Old 03-30-2015, 03:54 PM   #108
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Question Cutting holes vs fixing them

A bit off topic but what is the best way to cut a hole or make the window openings larger? Jigsaw, dremel? Any hints or tips on what to do and what not to do? How about drilling holes and not cracking the gel coat.
thanks
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Old 03-30-2015, 04:38 PM   #109
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I claim no great experience but I do know an oscillating tool and a sharp (high quality) fine tooth blade cuts through the fiberglass tabbing on the wall floor joint well.

I used this one but the blades that come with it are not very good. bought some 180 degree curved and short straight blades a notch or two up in quality.
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Old 03-30-2015, 05:35 PM   #110
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I second for oscillating tool and 180 degree blade. Works like a charm.
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Old 03-30-2015, 05:49 PM   #111
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I have all the tools mentioned for cutting fiberglass, and have used each one with success.

A good jigsaw, with a sharp blade, will work good, especially if you are doing a big cut. I used this when I put a large access hatch in.

The oscillating tools work great too, and I have used mine for smaller cuts. They are slower, but easy to control, and do a great job.

A Dremel tool too will work great for small work, with a good cutting blade. Slow, but nice cuts.

Which ever tool you use, first tape the cut line, and a few inches to the side, and make a good mark with a dark pen, so that once you get going, the line is easy to follow. If doing a lot of cutting, a vacuum to suck up the dust as you go would be helpful. Remember to wear a dust mask.
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Old 03-31-2015, 08:01 AM   #112
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If you use a jigsaw, there is a blade available (ACE Hardware), that cuts on the downstroke.

Most jigsaw blades cut on the upstroke, but I hear that might lift and splinter the finished
(i. e. the gelcoat) edge. You might be able to minimize the gelcoat edge damage by putting
blue "painter's tape" along the edged of the intended cut?

Ray


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