You Can Repair Fiberglass

[Bruce Thomas]

I only seen it because I have a compact and was looking around. The shower mod is kinda hidden in that thread.

[D White]

I appreciate the question but I am at a loss here. I would also post this question on the general forum and see what pops up. Fiberglass Dave

[TheWanderers]

Dave,

I am patching some larger holes in the shell of my Scamp and I reduced the amount of hardener in the resin mix by 25% thinking to extend my working time so I wouldn't have to rush. Unfortunately, the resin is still soft after 18 hours. I've removed the plywood panels holding the patch in place and my work is secure but I worry about covering it before it's cured.

How should I proceed? Will it harden eventually or is there something else that I need to do?

bill

[D White]

Originally Posted by TheWanderers

Dave,

I am patching some larger holes in the shell of my Scamp and I reduced the amount of hardener in the resin mix by 25% thinking to extend my working time so I wouldn't have to rush. Unfortunately, the resin is still soft after 18 hours. I've removed the plywood panels holding the patch in place and my work is secure but I worry about covering it before it's cured.

How should I proceed? Will it harden eventually or is there something else that I need to do?

bill

Put it out in the most direct sun for a couple days and report back if it doesn't work....fiberglass Dave

[TheWanderers]

Dave:

It'll get the hot sun today and we're forecast for 90° plus today. It's mostly set, but still tacky. I can be patient and we'll wait and watch. Thanks again for your help. bill

[Patricia D.]

I have read so many accounts and opinions about fiberglassing that I am now just confused about how to attack this project. So I am turning to the fg guru for help.
I am working on the belly band of a Ventura and there are issues that are unique to them (I think) that I would like advice on.
There are 3 inch high pieces of wood all around the inside the band area. The framing is attached to it on the inside and the top half of the trailer is attached with screws on the outside.
I cannot do any fg on the inside without taking out most of the framing. see Pic
On about 1\2 the band area, the top overlaps the bottom. In 2 corners there is a gap of up to 1/4 in. between the top and bottom.

I have taken off the band and taken out the screws and am using a grinder and flapper disk to create a bevel to accept the fg. I am about half done with this prep.
How would you proceed?
Do I just leave the inside or is there something I can do there?
Do I put new screws in and fg over them?
Do I use filler only at the end to smooth out any inconsistencies?
Thank you in advance.

[D White]

Originally Posted by Patricia D.

I have read so many accounts and opinions about fiberglassing that I am now just confused about how to attack this project. So I am turning to the fg guru for help.
I am working on the belly band of a Ventura and there are issues that are unique to them (I think) that I would like advice on.
There are 3 inch high pieces of wood all around the inside the band area. The framing is attached to it on the inside and the top half of the trailer is attached with screws on the outside.
I cannot do any fg on the inside without taking out most of the framing. see Pic
On about 1\2 the band area, the top overlaps the bottom. In 2 corners there is a gap of up to 1/4 in. between the top and bottom.

I have taken off the band and taken out the screws and am using a grinder and flapper disk to create a bevel to accept the fg. I am about half done with this prep.
How would you proceed?
Do I just leave the inside or is there something I can do there?
Do I put new screws in and fg over them?
Do I use filler only at the end to smooth out any inconsistencies?
Thank you in advance.

You can do this. We need pictures of the repair area....Fiberglass Dave

[Patricia D.]

Pic 1- front of trailer, just starting on band
Pic 2- hard to see but the top overlapping the bottom
Pic 3- opposite back corner - about 1/4 in. gap between top and bottom

[Patricia D.]

Pic 1- inside trailer wood piece inside belly band that the bottom part of the shell screws into - top part of the framing removed- was rotten
Pic 2- can just see the wood piece sticking up behind the intact framing
Pic 3- small portion of the outside that I have been working on
Hope these help to clarify.

[Jeanne D. in ca]

Hi Dave,
Thank you for all of the tips. I've had good results so far.

I'm replacing the structural floor on my Burro. I've got the new pieces in and fiberglassed the seams from the top. Now I'm working on fiberglassing the seams and around the bottom lip from underneath.

The thing that has worked best so far is to thicken the resin with wood flour, paint a section of the seam on the plywood, stick up about 18" of woven mat and use a brush to wet the mat. It look OK in general, more air bubbles than on top, but what a mess!

Do you have any tips for working this way?

Jeanne

[D White]

Originally Posted by Jeanne D. in ca

Hi Dave,
Thank you for all of the tips. I've had good results so far.

I'm replacing the structural floor on my Burro. I've got the new pieces in and fiberglassed the seams from the top. Now I'm working on fiberglassing the seams and around the bottom lip from underneath.

The thing that has worked best so far is to thicken the resin with wood flour, paint a section of the seam on the plywood, stick up about 18" of woven mat and use a brush to wet the mat. It look OK in general, more air bubbles than on top, but what a mess!

Do you have any tips for working this way?

Jeanne

I don't use wood flour and you shouldn't either...Sorry

[Jeanne D. in ca]

No thickeners at all? Just go with the flow? or drips?
Jeanne

[D White]

Originally Posted by Patricia D.

Pic 1- inside trailer wood piece inside belly band that the bottom part of the shell screws into - top part of the framing removed- was rotten
Pic 2- can just see the wood piece sticking up behind the intact framing
Pic 3- small portion of the outside that I have been working on
Hope these help to clarify.

I owe Patricia an apology. I think I read this question and decided to answer it later and forgot. On to the repair. She as already replaced rotting wood and fiberglassed it to the interior walls since her last post. Excellent, Patricia.
Now it is time to make a tapered trough or ditch where the joint is and put 2 0r better 3 layers of properly mixed resin and mat (after cleaning and wearing safety stuff) in the joint trough. Let cure and sand flush and thoroughly to remove all sheen....clean...and apply filler (bondo stuff) to make a surface ready for primer. Fiberglass Dave

[D White]

Originally Posted by Jeanne D. in ca

No thickeners at all? Just go with the flow? or drips?
Jeanne

I think too many cooks spoil the broth and in fiberglassing, there are many ways to do it. I don't talk about thickening agents or many other things in this thread to keep it simple so anyone can do it. Wood flour, sawdust, bark or ground up whatever may thicken and harden, it is just another uneducated idea passed on the internet and then adapted to someone elses project. It is not the professionally accepted method to use any thickening agent anywhere on fiberglass trailers in general. If you would pm me with what you have done or are trying to do, I may be able to help. Otherwise I would refer to what ever took you down the path you are going. Fiberglass Dave

[Patricia D.]

Thanks for your great advice, Dave. No apology needed.

[k corbin]

When Dave tells you what materials to use he is telling you the appropriate materials to go with the type of resin he has told you to use. I have no argument with that! Do as he says if you are following his instructions because the different resins have different associated materials that go with them.

I will make a comment here about wood flour. When you see it mentioned it is typically being used as a thickener to create a filler but most important to note it is that it is almost certainly being used with epoxy resins. Dave is not using epoxy resin in his repair method.

The use of wood flour is coming from the world of fiberglass boat building where they do use epoxy fiberglass methods. (Of course sometimes they also use the *ester resins for boat building.) An example of where wood flour would be mixed with epoxy resin is to create a smooth fillet between two surfaces that meet at perhaps a 90 degree corner. Fiberglass does not get forced into such a corner but instead needs a smooth rounded transition surface to lay against. If you were working with Polyester resin you would use a different paste type of material for that fillet material. If you are working with epoxy you might choose wood flour but there are other thickener choices as well for epoxies.

Different resin types, different methods of construction and repairs and that creates confusion for someone without a background in fiberglass who reads articles but doesn't realize that one material does not always go with another. So when you read those articles pay attention to what type of resin they are using.

[Miro]

Dave, please, advice on how to repair this. It looks like somebody tried to brake into the trailer

[D White]

Originally Posted by Miro

Dave, please, advice on how to repair this. It looks like somebody tried to brake into the trailer

Sorry...cant tell what this is or where it is on the trailer. Fiberglass Dave

[Miro]

Originally Posted by D White

Sorry...cant tell what this is or where it is on the trailer. Fiberglass Dave

Thanks for really quick replay

It is the door wing, next to the door lock. The damage is between the door lock and the door frame.

Thanks in advance

[D White]

Originally Posted by Miro

Dave, please, advice on how to repair this. It looks like somebody tried to brake into the trailer

I see by the other picture that there is some fiberglassing by the previous owner. This repair is easy and you can do it. Just look over this thread to get familiar...sand, clean, mask areas you don't want resin on and fiberglass away from the back. After it is cured, sand off the excess and use bondo type filler to smooth if you want. I would also sand down and redo the other previous repair to make it all look nice...Wear safety stuff and get to it....Fiberglass Dave