You Can Repair Fiberglass

[redbarron55]

Not to disagree with Dave, but on a structural note I would say that in this limited area where the ply is there to make a lower standing surface the act of bonding the bottom and the top to the ply and the sides would stiffen the structure.
If you think of the surfaces as being in tension or compression ans the wood just keeps them a fixed difference apart (along with its stiffness since this is what the plywood is made for with the crossing plies.) I would think that the bonding would be a good idea.
My question would be how was what you removed installed?
If it was bonded then I would redo it the same way.
It it were not bonded then the same thing might well be the answer.
Since the floor is already in place I would leave it and add two 1" aluminum angles underneath and across the floor to stiffen it.
I would also bond the floor in place with fiberglass cloth covering the floor.
I would not personally use mat, but rather cloth since it will lay down and make a smooth surface and since I have Epoxy I would use that, thinned slightly to soak a little into the wood for the coat over the wood.
I would add the cloth (precut and fitted) and use unthinned Epoxy to wet out the cloth.
It will leave a clear fiberglass coat over the top, well bonded to the wood.
I would the lay up some strips to bond the floor to the side kicks.
If you are careful and lay the strips carefully it will require little finishing and the floor itself should be smooth enough to put the flooring over directly.
However the addition of some steel or aluminum angle bolted through the floor with flat head bolts will stiffen up the floor. I would bond the angle to the bottom with a little polyurethane glue/sealant.
The secret is bonding to prevent movement of one part relative to the others.
There is strength and there is stiffness and they are not the same thing.
All of that being said I probably overkill most things I work on so my trailer ended up a little heavier than many others, but I don't worry about it falling apart, either.
After rereading and looking at your pictures I would say that one angle across the middle under the floor would take care of your bounce. The also a piece of wood, bonded and fiberglassed underneath would also do the job. This could be tapered at the ends if you like.
I think a painted steel angle, bonded and bolted would be the trick. 4 bolts one on each end and two spaced in the middle.
Be sure to seal the holes and bond the angle to the fiberglass to prevent movement.

[D White]

Originally Posted by redbarron55

Not to disagree with Dave, but on a structural note I would say that in this limited area where the ply is there to make a lower standing surface the act of bonding the bottom and the top to the ply and the sides would stiffen the structure.
If you think of the surfaces as being in tension or compression ans the wood just keeps them a fixed difference apart (along with its stiffness since this is what the plywood is made for with the crossing plies.) I would think that the bonding would be a good idea.
My question would be how was what you removed installed?
If it was bonded then I would redo it the same way.
It it were not bonded then the same thing might well be the answer.
Since the floor is already in place I would leave it and add two 1" aluminum angles underneath and across the floor to stiffen it.
I would also bond the floor in place with fiberglass cloth covering the floor.
I would not personally use mat, but rather cloth since it will lay down and make a smooth surface and since I have Epoxy I would use that, thinned slightly to soak a little into the wood for the coat over the wood.
I would add the cloth (precut and fitted) and use unthinned Epoxy to wet out the cloth.
It will leave a clear fiberglass coat over the top, well bonded to the wood.
I would the lay up some strips to bond the floor to the side kicks.
If you are careful and lay the strips carefully it will require little finishing and the floor itself should be smooth enough to put the flooring over directly.
However the addition of some steel or aluminum angle bolted through the floor with flat head bolts will stiffen up the floor. I would bond the angle to the bottom with a little polyurethane glue/sealant.
The secret is bonding to prevent movement of one part relative to the others.
There is strength and there is stiffness and they are not the same thing.
All of that being said I probably overkill most things I work on so my trailer ended up a little heavier than many others, but I don't worry about it falling apart, either.
After rereading and looking at your pictures I would say that one angle across the middle under the floor would take care of your bounce. The also a piece of wood, bonded and fiberglassed underneath would also do the job. This could be tapered at the ends if you like.
I think a painted steel angle, bonded and bolted would be the trick. 4 bolts one on each end and two spaced in the middle.
Be sure to seal the holes and bond the angle to the fiberglass to prevent movement.

Patricia...Don't do this or anything until I do some research on how your trailer was built. Members who have this trailer could chime in on its construction here, but please pm me with your ideas for a fix.
PLEASE...This thread (me) was asked this question...Start your own thread if you have ideas for Patricia...Don't post them here. It leaves bad information on a much viewed thread that is supposed to give good information doable by anyone...Fiberglass Dave

[thrifty bill]

Fiberglass Dave: I've got a rub mark on the front of my Casita, approximately 1/2 inch high by a little over one inch long.

The prior owner had a wood box on the front of the trailer that looks like it wore a hole through the fiberglass.

Anyway, I have to do something to patch this. I also have a smaller round hole on the front. I see you have recommended JB Weld on small holes. Is there a particular JB Weld product for fiberglass? Or is it just regular stuff. I have repaired holes in plastic fenders on my car with a JB Weld product, came in a cylinder, you cut off a piece then worked the two parts together and applied it like putty.

Its down low on the front of the trailer. I don't think a "perfect" color match is necessary.



[IMG]IMG_5884 by wrk101, on Flickr[/IMG]

[IMG]IMG_5883 by wrk101, on Flickr[/IMG]

[Patricia D.]

Thank you to everyone who has taken an interest in my predicament and has made thoughtful suggestions. I have decided the steps that I am going to take to deal with the flex in the floor but, for today, I am taking today I am going to focus on cutting the birch plywood wall panels so I can feel like I am making some progress.

[D White]

Originally Posted by thrifty bill

Fiberglass Dave: I've got a rub mark on the front of my Casita, approximately 1/2 inch high by a little over one inch long.

The prior owner had a wood box on the front of the trailer that looks like it wore a hole through the fiberglass.

Anyway, I have to do something to patch this. I also have a smaller round hole on the front. I see you have recommended JB Weld on small holes. Is there a particular JB Weld product for fiberglass? Or is it just regular stuff. I have repaired holes in plastic fenders on my car with a JB Weld product, came in a cylinder, you cut off a piece then worked the two parts together and applied it like putty.

Its down low on the front of the trailer. I don't think a "perfect" color match is necessary.



[IMG]IMG_5884 by wrk101, on Flickr[/IMG]

[IMG]IMG_5883 by wrk101, on Flickr[/IMG]

Howdy
I think JB weld or any of the two part epoxies easily available anywhere is perfectly fine here. Also check the gas tank two part ribbon putty or similar for different colors. One tip would be to knead the putty parts together and apply and then use a razor blade to remove excess and kind of "trowel" it smooth. Great question and good luck. You can do it...Fiberglass Dave

[thrifty bill]

I am looking at using this:

PlasticWeld Epoxy Putty | J-B Weld

Please advise if I have it wrong.

[D White]

Originally Posted by thrifty bill

I am looking at using this:

PlasticWeld Epoxy Putty | J-B Weld

Please advise if I have it wrong.

Any thing along this line will stick. I worry that this particular product will be too runny...Maybe try to find some ribbon epoxy putty and use it, then use this stuff after for color???? Anything you try can be ground out and redone if you don't like it so get at it!!!...Fiberglass Dave

[thrifty bill]

Yes, tomorrow's project as we head off on vacation Wednesday. I've used this putty to repair a front bumper on my Miata, where the tabs were broken off. The repairs were hidden, so I didn't worry about how it looked.

[thrifty bill]

Here is the same spot after patching. I could sand it a little and touch up to match paint wise.

[IMG]IMG_5889 by wrk101, on Flickr[/IMG]

[D White]

Originally Posted by thrifty bill

Here is the same spot after patching. I could sand it a little and touch up to match paint wise.

[IMG]IMG_5889 by wrk101, on Flickr[/IMG]

Good job

[thrifty bill]

Dave, thanks for the sage advice and the encouragement to dive in! Much appreciated!

[Talia]

Originally Posted by k corbin

I do not mind that you say to ignore it, but it is what is done in some of the manufactured trailers for applying plywood floors to the surface of the fiberglass shell and it has been proven to work by the test of time.

You've bluntly said multiple times in your own renovation thread that you don't want anyone to give suggestions or advice there, or to mention how they did things. He is asking that you return the same courtesy, because this is his thread.

[redbarron55]

I didn't know anyone owned a thread, but so be it.

Sent from my SCH-I605 using Fiberglass RV mobile app

[Jim Bennett]

Originally Posted by redbarron55

I didn't know anyone owned a thread...

This is true.

As an open forum anyone can post on any thread other than the "For Sale" ones. This interaction and sharing is how we learn.

There are often a few methods for any process that will all achieve good results. Having options is beneficial to all.

If someone requires sole ownership and control over what they post and who responds, this is not the place to do so.

All input is greatly appreciated.

[D White]

I go to considerable effort to keep this thread on track and to help people. That is it.

[Jim Bennett]

Originally Posted by D White

I go to considerable effort to keep this thread on track and to help people. That is it.

And this is a great thing, Dave. You have offered up some fantastic responses, and given great help to many. Others as well have successfully made fibreglass repairs too and have some insight, and this site is about sharing.

A discussion as to why one method might be better would be very much welcomed, as doing so will give members even more insight into the processes. Nothing is a matter of black and white.

Keep up the good work!

[Miro]

Dave, please advise on this, crack is cca 10 cm long. Is it ok to fiberglass it from the inside and then fill with putty from outside.

Thanks in advance

[D White]

After much deliberation, I will no longer be posting or answering questions here. I know many people have fixed their own trailers because of this thread and there is plenty of information here for all of you to try it on your own do it well. Remember fiberglass is very forgiving and if your repair doesn't turn out the way you want, grind it out and redo it til it does...YOU CAN DO IT
Fiberglass Dave

[Harvey9]

Originally Posted by D White

After much deliberation, I will no longer be posting or answering questions here. I know many people have fixed their own trailers because of this thread and there is plenty of information here for all of you to try it on your own do it well. Remember fiberglass is very forgiving and if your repair doesn't turn out the way you want, grind it out and redo it til it does...YOU CAN DO IT
Fiberglass Dave

Sorry to hear this, I thought you gave excellent advise. Sure helped me out.
Harvey

[Lercs]

Originally Posted by D White

After much deliberation, I will no longer be posting or answering questions here. I know many people have fixed their own trailers because of this thread and there is plenty of information here for all of you to try it on your own do it well. Remember fiberglass is very forgiving and if your repair doesn't turn out the way you want, grind it out and redo it til it does...YOU CAN DO IT
Fiberglass Dave

Very disappointing as I came into this thread to post my first question. I was also hoping you would eventually do the thread on finishing techniques.