1 5/8" metal stud with spray foam? - Fiberglass RV


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Old 06-13-2014, 05:53 PM   #1
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1 5/8" metal stud with spray foam?

So I'm tearing apart the inside of our 13' Cadet and I was trying to find a way to insulate and add some "structure" for fastening cabinets and shelves to. currently, there is small pieces of 1x2 fiberglassed to the shell that the cabinets were fastened to. Most of this wood is broken and needs replaced.

My idea = 1 5/8" steel studs, with a track cut to fit contour of roof and a flat track on the floor. Possibly PL the studs to the wall as well as fasten them to the tracks with some sort of adhesive on the screw to prevent it from loosing and rattling with vibrations. For insulation is was thinking about spray foam to the face of the studs and them cover the walls with pre-finished white paneling.

Good idea or bad idea? what are some of the negatives associated with this?
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Old 06-13-2014, 06:37 PM   #2
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What's PL?

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Old 06-13-2014, 07:45 PM   #3
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Tracks? Tell us more about the tracks.

It seems like steel studs would certainly add a lot of strength to the body. Is the added weight of the beams a concern?

PL - If you're referring to PL Construction Adhesive, my experience is that it is second only to epoxy. Good stuff.
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Old 06-13-2014, 07:46 PM   #4
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PL 200, PL 300 ,PL 400 are construction adhesives . Comes in tubes that are used in a caulking gun .Good for gluing foam ,sheathing, studs or stripping to a substrate, sub flooring and laminated headers. Have you considered using 3/4" hat channel with 3/4" polyiscyanurate foil faced foam insulation (5.4 R factor)
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Old 06-14-2014, 01:17 AM   #5
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It sounds great. Should be warm too!
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Old 06-15-2014, 08:51 PM   #6
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Thanks for the replies! You guys nailed the PL explanation, thank you.
The track I refer to is the same as the steel stud, 1 5/8, but without the pre formed holes for wires.
As soon as I posted my original post I though about using hat channel and foil back insulation as an alternative! Lose less space that way, but less insulation (not sure how much that's gonna matter)
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Old 06-16-2014, 09:03 AM   #7
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If you build the walk and pull the wires and then spray with closed cell foam, that will seal and bond everything together and support the wires so the don't move and break. As you spray you can press fit rigid foam panels in the voids and the fill the gaps with spray foam to save on cost. Some sort of thermal break between the inside wall and the studs like 3 M double sided tape would eliminate the need for many fasteners and reduce thermal conductivity as the screws would tend to sweat and rust.
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Old 06-16-2014, 09:04 AM   #8
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What about bracing for shear?
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Old 06-16-2014, 09:49 AM   #9
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Windows have 3 to 10 times more heat loss than an insulated walls ,. Changing the windows from an R1 single pane window to an R5 thermal pane window would save as much or more energy than increasing your walls R Factor and you would not lose interior space . Insulation at a certain point adds cost with little energy savings . In a trailer as small as a 13 ft Scamp the energy payback on installing high R factor wall insulation will be non existent and probably will not increase your comfort level
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Old 06-16-2014, 10:59 AM   #10
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I agree on the thermal windows being a big improvement; these can be supplemented with moveable insulation. I have reflective panels for my vents and I'd like to get vent pillows.

My experience is the extra insulation does make a big difference in extreme cold. My camper is very well insulated and I've found some problem areas last winter and plan to address them this year. I found a two inch air gaps at the headboard at the crease. I plan to spray some foam in there but need to size it up better first, perhaps by drilling test holes or pulling back at the seam.

If you are a three season camper investing a lot of time in this is if doubtful usefulness. If you four season camp then you need to treat insulation as the most import aspect.

For summer, shade and fans are the best solution.
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Old 06-16-2014, 11:42 AM   #11
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Originally Posted by Night Sailor View Post
I agree on the thermal windows being a big improvement; these can be supplemented with moveable insulation. I have reflective panels for my vents and I'd like to get vent pillows.

My experience is the extra insulation does make a big difference in extreme cold. My camper is very well insulated and I've found some problem areas last winter and plan to address them this year. I found a two inch air gaps at the headboard at the crease. I plan to spray some foam in there but need to size it up better first, perhaps by drilling test holes or pulling back at the seam.

If you are a three season camper investing a lot of time in this is if doubtful usefulness. If you four season camp then you need to treat insulation as the most import aspect.

For summer, shade and fans are the best solution.
After talking with Scamp ,Casita and EggCamper non of them say that their trailers are designed to be four season (Minimum temp of Approx 20 Deg F) Non of the three named trailers have insulated floors which presents another problem . I agree that insulation is an important factor but if you use the trailer only when the temperatures are above freezing , the loss of interior space may out weigh the energy savings / increased comfort level you gain . When I taught electric heat calculations at the local vocational college , many of my students were surprised to discover that the two greatest sources of heat loss in a home were the windows/doors and infiltration . R19 wall insulation stops over 80% of the walls heat loss . After that the cost of a higher wall insulation value is money chasing a diminishing energy savings.
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Old 06-16-2014, 11:57 AM   #12
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Originally Posted by steve dunham View Post
After talking with Scamp ,Casita and EggCamper none of them say that their trailers are designed to be four season (Minimum temp of Approx 20 Deg F).

I beg to differ, I am relatively certain that down to 20 degrees qualifies ANY rig as "four season capable" for me.
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Old 06-17-2014, 12:08 AM   #13
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Then you don't have a real winter.
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Old 06-17-2014, 07:24 AM   #14
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Then you don't have a real winter.
I wanted to use my trailer for deer hunting in the "FALL" All 3 of the trailer manufacturers I ealled told me that their trailers were not designed for the temperature encountered at that time of year . Even the Escape with the insulated walls & floors + dual pain windows is not suited for a midwest winter.
I tried to explain ice fishing to a young Southern Georgia boy and he could not grasp the concept. I agree with you in that a lot of this forums members do not know what a real winter is.
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