1-7/8" to 2" Hitch uprade on 13' Scamp - Fiberglass RV


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Old 02-10-2015, 12:38 PM   #1
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Name: Gary
Trailer: 1976 13' Scamp
Michigan
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1-7/8" to 2" Hitch uprade on 13' Scamp

My new-to-me 1976 scamp has been fitted with dual LP gas tanks on the tongue. The battery was moved to the inside under the road side of the front bunk. The battery posts are taller than the deck of the bench so it is impossible to set the cover into it's spot...not well thought out. The two tanks are far enough forward that it is nearly impossible to turn the jack without busting your knuckles... Also not well thought out. There appears to be enough room behind the tank assembly for me to put the battery so rather than move the tanks, I'm thinking of moving the jack. Scamp has a 2" coupler/Center mount jack that looks like it might do the trick.
My question is, how far behind the ball, and how high above it is the completed assembly? I have a lift gate on my Sorento that needs to swing open to let my traveling companion out.
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Old 02-10-2015, 12:46 PM   #2
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My 2 cents. Moving battery out side is a good idea. Will the frame hold the weight?
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Old 02-10-2015, 12:52 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boats19 View Post
My new-to-me 1976 scamp has been fitted with dual LP gas tanks on the tongue. The battery was moved to the inside under the road side of the front bunk. The battery posts are taller than the deck of the bench so it is impossible to set the cover into it's spot...not well thought out. The two tanks are far enough forward that it is nearly impossible to turn the jack without busting your knuckles... Also not well thought out. There appears to be enough room behind the tank assembly for me to put the battery so rather than move the tanks, I'm thinking of moving the jack. Scamp has a 2" coupler/Center mount jack that looks like it might do the trick.
My question is, how far behind the ball, and how high above it is the completed assembly? I have a lift gate on my Sorento that needs to swing open to let my traveling companion out.
You could use a bolt on side mount, swing up jack that can be mounted almost as far forward as the center mount jack.
John
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Old 02-10-2015, 04:22 PM   #4
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Name: Gary
Trailer: 1976 13' Scamp
Michigan
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I'd love to post a pic! I just noticed when I was taking the pic the handle of the original jack was sawed off at 2-1/2 inches past the bend! A hole was drilled and the handle for turning is a bolt. There is only 4 inches forward of that and the back of the hitch assy.
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Old 02-10-2015, 04:40 PM   #5
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Trailer: 1984 u-haul ct13; 1996 Casita 17 Spirit Deluxe; 1946 Modernistic teardrop
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I removed the tongue mounted propane tank on our Uhaul and installed a cargo box in it's place. Couldn't work the jack crank then. It's a swing away jack, folds up level with the frame. My solution was to grind off the welds holding the jack tube to the swivel mount, turn the jack tube about 45 degrees, and weld it back on. This gave me clearance for the crank handle. There are jacks available that have top mount or side mount cranks. Maybe just a different jack will work for you, but you also have to be aware of the retracted height. That is when it's cranked up how far below the tongue the jack extends. Also some batteries are shorter in height than others, that may be a solution, but an inside mounted battery should be in a sealed box that has a vent off the top to the outside and that vent hose should incline up from the box to the vent outlet.
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Old 02-10-2015, 06:23 PM   #6
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Bob,
The retracted height is a concern of mine. If I go Boondocking like I plan there will be two tracks to navigate. The battery is definitely going outside. I may have to move the tanks back and put it farthest forward. That could even solve the issue keeping the present jack. I do like the way it rotates out of the way.
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Old 02-10-2015, 08:28 PM   #7
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I credit the following to Jim, (cpaharley) as he first posted it. There is an adapter called Jack-E-up that allows quick removal of a tongue jack by simply twisting it and lifting it off. One piece bolts to the jack mounting flange, the other to the trailer tongue. You insert jack into adapter and twist it to lock it in place. Pretty clever device I think. I know Camping World sells it, possibly also etrailer and amazon. Check it out.
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Old 02-11-2015, 06:12 AM   #8
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That is slick! I was thinking about doing something like this by cutting
keyhole slots in the jack handle flange... but for $50 and it's shiney!
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Old 02-11-2015, 10:55 AM   #9
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wow!!! I love that Idea..
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Old 02-11-2015, 04:47 PM   #10
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I have that same issue on my 1986 Scamp 13. It has a group 27 battery and box. before I replaced it I had a group 24 with its box and the dual propane bottles. Everything fits just barely. When I finally get fed up with the crank I am going to remove the handle and weld an appropriate nut on the shaft end. then I can use a speed wrench or electric drill / driver with the right socket. I figure if your going to take it off and trash it going to a new system whats it going to hurt.
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Old 02-11-2015, 07:28 PM   #11
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Steve,
Let me know how that drill driver idea works. I was considering that too.
I'm just not sure how the torque vs mechanical advantage would work out...
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Old 02-11-2015, 08:50 PM   #12
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Blood on the propane tanks (from your knuckles) is a badge of honor (you're using your trailer and it's not just sitting in some field rotting away)
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Old 02-12-2015, 07:28 AM   #13
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I'm really enjoying the Jack-E-Up
it allows me to open my tailgate on my pickup while towing, something I could not do without adding a longer stinger which I did not wish to do.
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Old 02-12-2015, 09:13 AM   #14
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Thanks for posting about it Jim, it may be quite useful to many of us here. Shopping around brings up varying prices. Camping World had it on sale a while ago. Only down side I can imagine is now the jack has to be stowed somewhere, which brings up the question; do you travel with the jack in place on the trailer or remove it and put it in the truck. If traveling with the jack on the trailer could it vibrate out and fall off.
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