120V appliances - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 05-08-2003, 08:48 PM   #15
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Refer

Pineconedon,

Appreciate the explanations. I found out 3-way refers are indeed cooled by ammonia absorption process, either by

1. an electrically heated element (12v DC or 110v AC)

Or,

2. a Propane heated element

In the case of propane, the pilot in the back has to be lighted, right?

Granted these are inane questions for anyone who's owned an RV -- but if it brings one more Fiberglass egg owner into the fold ...:)
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Old 05-08-2003, 09:05 PM   #16
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kersosene too

cabin models have been around longer then your ac refigerator:wave
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Old 05-08-2003, 09:05 PM   #17
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Quote:
Orginally posted by PineConeDon
2 or 3 way RV fridges don't use a compressor. What is it, 'heat absorbtion system' or something.....I dunno, but it seems to be the way to go, even tho more $$$.

Perhaps vibration during travel is a consideration also?!
Hi again ...just thought that I would throw this in....I converted a bus in 74 and used a RV fridge in it that had a compressor. These fridges were also used in the GM motor homes of the period. The fridge was a two door 7.7 cu. ft. by Norcold. It ran on 43 V. It had a converter and inverter built in. Ran on battery or 110 V. power. Whatever was on at the time. IF it was plugged into 110, and batterywas hooked up it ran off the 110 and if you pulled the plug on 110 it automatically switched to battery.....The beauty part was it didn`t need leveling..and I carried 2 8D batteries....I checked the Norcold site some time ago but they are not available...could be the price as they were quite expensive 25 years ago.....Benny
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Old 05-08-2003, 10:17 PM   #18
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fridge

Bill:

The 16' Casita comes with a 2cu ft fridge with manual controls. Yes, you have to go outside and light the pilot. An automatic ignitor can be added, but you still have 'outside' controls.
<img src=http://www.fiberglassrv.com/board/uploads/3ebb1a88ce7fbCasita recepticle.jpg/>



The 17' Casita comes with a 4cuft fridge (with a freezer) and automatic controls (inside).

An additional note: the hot water heater comes with an option called DSI (Direct Spark Ignition). Allows you flip a switch 'inside' to get it going. :)
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Old 05-14-2003, 08:31 PM   #19
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Thanks for the details PineconeDon. :)

And the photos too.

I'm guessing when they talk about electronic ignition in these appliances -- they're talking about piezo-electric ignition.
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Old 07-10-2009, 12:01 AM   #20
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Some of the newer Norcold and Dometic fridges have no pilot, and use direct spark ignition (lower gas consumption, too). Not sure how small they go with this feature, but the flame sense and auto shut off/alarm on the new units make 3-ways redundant, you just have to remember to TURN THEM OFF, when re-fuelling. They were always marginal on 12V anyways, and you better turn to gas if your engine would be off for more than an hour, or 'Hello,AAA?' The original fridge in my Layton was a 3-way, but it used the same 'micro' switch for either 115v or 12v, and the current at 12v (almost 10 x) cooked the switch. Then, instead of correcting the problem by replacing the switch, and slaving a relay for the 12v heater supply, they added another thermostat (at the back) and disabled the 12V. As the unit was pilot light type, you couldn't depend on it (almost never) to stay lit on the road. So, on a trip across the continent, I installed a 400watt inverter, to operate the fridge on the road. This remedy worked fine until the element shorted and blew the inverter. Then I operated it on propane only for the balance of the season, replacing it with a new 'Norcold' 5.5 cu ft over the winter.
BTW, I also use a 'CPAP', but mine is a two-piece unit, with the pump running at 12v(DC), and only the humidifier requiring 115V. I run 4-5 days on battery, without recharge, when 'Booning'
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Old 07-13-2009, 03:52 PM   #21
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Remember the old saying 'The stupid question is the one not asked' If you ask no questions, how do you learn? Reading the books is also asking questions, without speaking.
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