13' Scamp Closet - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 11-19-2013, 07:32 AM   #15
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Name: Eddie
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Mike
A little late now but a multi-tool with a shop-vac held near the blade takes care of most of the dust when cutting fiberglass panels. Sound like your mod. worked out.
Eddie
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Old 11-23-2013, 04:52 PM   #16
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Hey Scampers, to make the lower door I used the fiberglass piece I cut out to open up the closet and put a wood trim around it.
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Old 11-23-2013, 04:55 PM   #17
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ooops, i didn't mean to post that yet, i was trying to copy a picture in and my fat fingers hit the wrong key!

looks like i have to have pix posted somewhere before i can link to them here so i have to figure that out first. sorry about the waste of space here!
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Old 11-23-2013, 05:36 PM   #18
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Door from cutout panel

I hope this works to show the door made from the removed fiberglass piece and the cedar shelving I put in, which smells nice and will hopefully keep the moths out.

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Old 11-23-2013, 06:05 PM   #19
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That's a cool idea. Thanks for sharing!
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Old 11-25-2013, 01:41 PM   #20
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Finally got it all done! The PVC Pipe worked great since I didn't want to drill into the fiberglass. Once I put the plywood shelves in it was surprisingly very sturdy and isn't rickety at all. Can't wait to put them to use!


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Old 11-25-2013, 06:38 PM   #21
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Hi Mike,
I LOVE this pvc idea! WOW...pretty crafty indeed. Can you share the size pipe you used? Looks like what the shelves lay on are pvc "T" unions, right? Did you just notch the wood out to fit around and sit on top of the union, or did you run PVC between the two unions, left to right, and then let the shelves sit on that as well? Please do share all you can think of for me...if possible leave no stone unturned, as I often need things spelled out like rolaids!
My 13er is parked outside and I'm reticent to do any cutting of the bottom door or anything till spring, but boy, your work makes me tempted. I bought my dremel and the door you mentioned to me from Scamp the other day. I've got tools and ambition, but it's darn tootin' cold here in NY!
My commendations on your cool work...I honestly think your the first I've seen to use PVC!

Warm Regards,
CampyTime (Wendy)
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Old 11-25-2013, 06:56 PM   #22
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I did the PVC thing with my closet shelves and it's the most brilliant thing ever. Here's a link to my original post. When I did it, I used one-inch Schedule 40 PVC. I didn't glue it all together since I didn't know if I'd want to take it out again, but yes, Wendy, the shelves are cut to sit on the PVC. It was really easy--a PVC cutter is one of my favorite tools--so you should definitely try it!

Mike, this is great work!
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Old 11-25-2013, 09:04 PM   #23
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Hello Wendy,
Thanks for the compliments, I'm really happy with it. However, I can't take full credit for the PVC pipe idea. Number one, before I did anything there was a board at the bottom of the closet that could be lifted up for access to the area where the wheel well is. Holding up that board was a PVC pipe frame. Secondly, I came across Karen's post from about 4 years ago (she has that link on her post above mine) and modeled mine after that. Thanks Karen!

To answer your questions, I used the same size PVC pipe as Karen did. The shelves were notched out to lay on the "T" unions and minus the bottom shelf there is no PVC pipe between the unions. In fact, if you look at the first two pictures of the PVC structure, that is exactly what it looks like under the shelves you see in the pictures that follow.

Making the structure is fairly simple but you need to make sure all of the unions are level, otherwise, you will have wobbly shelves. Be sure to invest in an inexpensive pipe cutting tool, it will make the cuts a lot cleaner and it's a lot easier than using a saw. However, using the pipe cutter will create a lip on the edge making it difficult to put into the fittings. You can either work it in with a tight fit or sand it down. I used an electric sander.

Like Karen, I did not glue the fittings into place in case I wanted to remove it or add another shelf. You also want the shelves to be snug to help keep the structure sturdy.

That is about all I can think of right now, If I think of anything else I'll be sure to add it. Also, if you have any more questions I'll be more than happy to answer them.

Good luck and stay warm in NY. It's been in the 60's and 70's here in Northern Ca.
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Old 12-18-2013, 12:01 AM   #24
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I just bought a 1972 13' trailer. Someone has already made many modifications. Front couch area is now a large counter space. The double bed is now a queen bed that resulted in loss of closet space. All upper cabinets were removed. Electrical is a mess, but I'm getting that fixed. Replaced marker lights, and currently it is in the shop getting body repairs (there were holes in the fiberglass). It is also getting a professional new paint job.

My question is: does any one know the best way to mount new cabinets? The stove and sink were also removed and I would like to restore that area to have a useable kitchen space with cabinets to store kitchen items. Must I use glue? May I use screws with glue? If you have a scamp how are they mounted and attached to the fiberglass? Grateful for responses !
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Old 12-18-2013, 07:18 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scampabout View Post
I just bought a 1972 13' trailer. Someone has already made many modifications. Front couch area is now a large counter space. The double bed is now a queen bed that resulted in loss of closet space. All upper cabinets were removed. ...!
First I want to welcome you to the forum, you will find a ton of information and helpful folks here.

I hope the closet was not fully removed. The closet and the brace between the kitchen counter and the upper cabinets are structural supports that prevent the roof from collapsing.

The factory method of attaching cabinets use rivets through the fiberglass shell. Many modifying their FGRVs use stainless steel machine screws and nuts as a stronger system. Another option (and the way I did mine) is to eliminate all rivets and screws and glue (epoxy) mounting anchors to the inside of the fiberglass shell, then attach the cabinets to these mounting points. This eliminates all rivets and "holes" through the fiberglass.
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