13 scamp..storage bin on bumper? - Fiberglass RV


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Old 08-19-2013, 06:50 AM   #1
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Name: Mark
Trailer: 13ft Scamp
Wisconsin
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13 scamp..storage bin on bumper?

Has anyone put a metal storage container on the back bumper for axtra storage. If so how and is ot secure enough etc.
Thanks
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Old 08-19-2013, 07:48 AM   #2
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Name: Norm and Ginny
Trailer: Scamp 16
Florida
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We haven't put a metal one on the back but I have installed a plastic one on our son's Scamp 13 and on our Scamp 16.

You can see it under Modifications, Preparing a 1991 Scamp 16.

Basiclly we remove the spare and mount a couple of shortened right angle L brackets to the bumper. We then mount a Walmart's plastic bin to brackets and remount the tire causing the back of the box to be trapped betwen the tire and rear of the trailer.

We use the box for water hoses, power cord, wooden leveling blocks and a small tool boxes plus some misc items. We put nothing too heavy in here.

It is not water tight but everythinf in here can get wet.

Additionally we have two 5"x5"x 4' fence posts mounted to the bottom of the bracket supporting the bumper box. We use one for a long sewer hose and the other for poles.

The box we bought was $18 about 3'x1.5 x 1 '. We removed the hinge and added two side latches. Glad to add more pictures if you're interested.

We've used this box for 6 years.
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Old 08-19-2013, 07:59 AM   #3
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Trailer: 7/24/13...ordered a 2014 13 ft Scamp w/Shower/Toilet
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Nice idea Norm and described so I could understand it..ha! Did you ever enclose the front ball/battery area? I was thinking of doing that. Also, is it a good idea to get one of those ball/hitch locks...in your opinion. Ill be storing my Scamp in a gated storage facility.
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Old 08-19-2013, 05:13 PM   #4
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By the way I had to shorten one end of the l bracket and add a mounting hole.

I have a battery box on the front and a single propane tank ring (as well as an anti sway bar). We have only one propane tank and use a one pound propane bottle as a backup. We have never run out. We considered a front box but seem to have ample outside storage. We also have 5 boxes that mount under the Scamp attaching to the floor.
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Old 08-19-2013, 05:18 PM   #5
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I think a ball lock is a good idea.

We own a ball lock but usually don't use it at home. NH is relatively crime free and it's parked in our yard typically with the Honda in front of it.
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Old 08-19-2013, 07:21 PM   #6
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Ontario
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I saw this recently, the welder did a great job. I like it because its higher so it doesn't affect the departure angle, and its welded to the frame rails as well as the bumper. Also it's easy to fabricate, and if chosen, easy to cut off.

The FG user was georgewa
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Old 08-19-2013, 07:23 PM   #7
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I saw this recently, the welder did a great job. I like it because its higher so it doesn't affect the departure angle, and its welded to the frame rails as well as the bumper. Also it's easy to fabricate, and if chosen, easy to cut off.

The FG user was georgewa
I would suggest before adding weight to the bumper measure your tongue weight with a bathroom scale to ensure you don't lose tongue weight by loading the rear. I added a rear bike rack and now I don't have enough tongue weight.
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Old 08-19-2013, 07:53 PM   #8
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When I started my Scamp renovation project I purchased a discounted truck bed tool box and two bolt on spare tire mounts. My plan was to mount the box on the bumper to hold our First Up tent frame and odds & ends. I had it all worked out - it made for a fairly clean installation.

At some point I changed my mind. After our first camping trip I was glad I did. It turned out that the trailer - a 13" Scamp - is very sensitive to how it is loaded. It has a real tendency to sway if there is not adequate weight in front of the axle.

I have since mounted a tongue box on the front and re-thought how we pack gear inside. Shifting weight toward of the tongue makes all the difference.

So obviously, I would caution against adding weight to the rear --- unless you also plan to add some to the front to maintain adequate weight on the tongue. References on the web suggest that tongue weight should be 9 to 15% of the gross trailer weight.
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Old 08-19-2013, 08:05 PM   #9
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One advantage of the mounting method I used is that the bumper box and associated weight, though light, is as close to the body as possible. As well the additional structure required to support the bumper box is significantly lighter than a steel frame though not as strong.
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Old 08-19-2013, 08:19 PM   #10
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Norm...useful info as always. I have a printed picture of your fridge lock.

Steve, yup...that's my worry as I will have two bikes on the back. Do ya'all think I should get a sway bar installed ( and I have no clue hoe this occurs and where) when I go to Camping World to get my controller box for my electric brakes? Lastly, on that subject, my DW and I went to CW and looked at the controller boxes. It seems like the ones about $100 would be best. Any suggestions? I would rather buy better and be safe and one easy to read etc.
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Old 08-19-2013, 08:35 PM   #11
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The tighter the box is to the body the better, same with bikes. So a long narrow box would be better than a square one.

I would think that for a rear mounted bike rack one would have to account for the leverage of the long upright and/or arm extended to support the bikes from above.

Some of the same general discussion also taking place in this thread.
http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/f56/adding-2-receiver-to-scamp-60421.html#post412006


Also some mention is made of a front bike rack that sounded like it would put weight where you want it.
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Old 08-19-2013, 08:43 PM   #12
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And back to the sway bar question.
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Old 08-19-2013, 08:53 PM   #13
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Norm...useful info as always. I have a printed picture of your fridge lock.

Steve, yup...that's my worry as I will have two bikes on the back. Do ya'all think I should get a sway bar installed ( and I have no clue hoe this occurs and where) when I go to Camping World to get my controller box for my electric brakes? Lastly, on that subject, my DW and I went to CW and looked at the controller boxes. It seems like the ones about $100 would be best. Any suggestions? I would rather buy better and be safe and one easy to read etc.
My trailer came with an antisway bar, I never needed it. Just make sure your trailer tires and bearings are good and you have sufficient tongue weight.
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Old 08-19-2013, 09:00 PM   #14
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Thanks Norm, being new the bearings and tires are not an issue. My bike rack was welded for a 6" extension to get past the back tire on the jeep so I know it will be 'out' there a bit. I don't know how much they cost but thought it may be a good idea for safety. Thoughts?....and on a quality controller box?
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