13' Scamp Work in Progress (Lots of Additions) - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 03-15-2010, 10:39 AM   #15
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Trailer: 1977 Scamp 13 ft
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I installed a new furnace over the weekend. Although it is indeed pretty loud it will be alot safer for the kids. The install went pretty good and I am pleased with the outcome. The dealrship had to order me a grill for it and that will be in Tuesday. Once I put that on I can finish in around it and make the cabinet look finished again. You can see some of the pictures from the install in the thread "Adding a Furnace"

Shortly after I finished the furnace I decited to repair the door trim & gasket. I scraped and scraped and washed and washed. The gasket adhesive off. I readjusted the door and uest SS machine screws to reatach the strike plate. The door actualy works pretty good now. I realized that my door has not relaxed all that much. I beleive the real cause for the gaps is all the gasket was rotten and hard. I will be appling the new gasket tonight I hope. That is if I can find a good material around town.

I also decited to have a look at the front window. This is one of the worst hack jobs by the previous owner. It apparently had started leaking, so the fix of course was at least 3 tubes of clear sillicone adhesive, layered on over probably several years. They had also ran a layer over the gelcoat around the windo as well just to be safe. It took me well over 2 hours to scrape enough slillicone from around the rivits to be able to drill them out. Also I had to cut nearly a inch and a half bead off from around the window. This was the same around all of the glazing and any other part. Basicly eveything nigh of the glass, had an inch layer of sillicone on it. I was finaly able to pull it out and to my suprise the butel tape was still sticky and plyable. Allthough it has shrunk and cracked in a few spots. I beleive the window is salvagable but it is going to be a nightmare to get all the silicone off. Dos anyone have a recomendation on a way to get it off the aluminum?

The 2nd picture shows the top of the windo poking out above the rock guard. I forgot to snap a photo before I started



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Old 03-15-2010, 10:55 AM   #16
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Trailer: 1974 Boler 13 ft (Neonex/Winnipeg)
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I used house paint, I would not recomened it. It looks ok but chips easily and it did leave a texture.
Couple of notes:

1) As you mentioned, some types of "house paint" might not be the best for fiberglass.

2) Before painting (molded) gelcoated fiberglass, you have to remove the mold release wax so that the paint will adhere. Maybe this is part of the chipping problem. It seems crazy, but such wax is still there after 25 years. It's still on boat hulls after decades of being submerged in water even.

What you want to do is use a solvent (such as Interlux 202), and wipe the entire surface with rags. You have to be really careful to not use the same surface of the rag twice, or else you just move the wax around. Also, be sure not to sand before removing the wax, or you will simply grind it in and make it harder to remove.

Raya
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Old 03-15-2010, 11:05 AM   #17
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...It apparently had started leaking, so the fix of course was at least 3 tubes of clear sillicone adhesive, layered on over probably several years.... Basicly eveything nigh of the glass, had an inch layer of sillicone on it.... I beleive the window is salvagable but it is going to be a nightmare to get all the silicone off. Dos anyone have a recomendation on a way to get it off the aluminum?
Welcome to the nightmare. There is no "good" way that I know of to remove silicone. And we won't even get started on the invisible, yet contaminating oil it leaves behind. But here are a few thoughts:

1) Sometimes it will kind of roll off reasonably easily (this obviously isn't one of those times).

2) Your next step is to cut away as much as you can, perhaps with a razor blade (this is silicone to silicone contact).

3) Now you have to carefully scrape as well as you can, but not "kill" whatever you are trying to remove the silicone from. I've used the plastic razor blade type scrapers, metal scrapers (careful!), a fingernail (THAT gets tiring), shaped sharpened dowels, etc. etc.

4) Supposedly there are silicone-remover type sprays/formulas. I have not used them but people who have reported back say they are not a magic cure-all by any means. Still, you might try one when you get down to just a small amount left.

5) Be wary of "grinding" the silicone (and its contamination) into the fiberglass. You can test the surface when you're done by putting water on it to see if it "fish eyes" (the water kind of moves away from your area in a group, instead of lying evenly everywhere).

If anyone has any other tips (or if I think of any), please post them!

I feel your pain

Raya

PS: Interesting that the butyl was still nice and pliable. Probably there were just a few small leaks that could easily have been solved by simply re-bedding the window with butyl. Yes, that butyl is demanding stuff: You have to re-bed it every 25 years whether you want to or not
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Old 03-15-2010, 11:33 AM   #18
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PS: Interesting that the butyl was still nice and pliable. Probably there were just a few small leaks that could easily have been solved by simply re-bedding the window with butyl. Yes, that butyl is demanding stuff: You have to re-bed it every 25 years whether you want to or not
Thank you for the tips! - The other windows are all in really good shape. The original glazing has shrunk and there are some gaps in it but they don't leak. And the gaps have made good weep holes. My guess on the front one is that he plugged the weep holes and that made it worse. I think I can get most of it off the fiberglass.. Its going to be a nightmare thogh. Since I won't be painting the window frame I was considdering a wire brush on my die-grinder. What do you think about a brass brush? I think maybe I could polish it afterwords. I mean really even if I scratch it all the pieces It would be an improvement!

Here is a question for you... (U being the "expert" on all things sticky) I have been reading lots of posts with your sound advise on adhesives. Since I have no way to cover my rig. What flavor of White Caulk would you recomend that does not take 7 days to cure? I used some 3M below the waterline permanant stuff on the corners of the belly band only to return the next day to having a nice coat of dirt stuck in it!

One more window question.... When I shove it back in? Should I use Pop Rivits like the factory or is there something better?

Thank you for all the help!
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Old 03-16-2010, 10:49 AM   #19
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Got out there last night and took my angle grinder with a wire wheel on it and went to town. Amazingly enough it worked pretty good. I was suprised to find a solid aluminum window frame under all of that goop. It was a dirty nasty job. I spent 3 hours grinding and scraping. The down side is that the aluminum looks a little strange and there are wire gouges but it is way better looking than it was before. I am pleased with the results. What I did find was the the rubber seal on the tilt up window as rotten and toast. All of the rubber glazing strips were shrunk, and the frame for the tilt open was falling apart. Instead of fixing the window. They used the 3 or 4 tubes of Silicone.

I hope I can find the rubber seals around town. I have never repaired a window before and it's high time I learn how. Does anyone know if that is a material I can find at the hardware store?

Thank you!

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Old 03-16-2010, 11:48 AM   #20
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Hi David,

I'm sorry I didn't reply to your earlier question. I read it on break at work and was not logged in at the time; later I forgot. Now I don't have time for a long answer (argh).

On the window seals:

1) There have been a few threads here where we discussed part number and fits. If you don't have luck with the FGRV search, try this entered into a Google search box:

text you want to search site:fiberglassrv.com

2) A couple of known sources for seals for the jalousie windows:

a) www.vintagetrailersupply.com

b ) www.interstatemetals.com

There are a couple of others, but this should get you started. Assuming you still have any strength left in your clicking fingers after The Great Silicone Battle.

Raya
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Old 03-17-2010, 12:11 PM   #21
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Thank you again for all the knowledge!

I was able to pull out all of the seals, clean them up and reuse them. I used laytex glazing caulk with aluminum in it. It is the same color as the original seals. I shot a bead of that into all of the tracks as I re asembled the window panes. I then knocked the rubber seals back in and used the caulking to fill in the gaps. It worked really well. For the seal on the tilt out I used colsed cell weather strip. It made a good positive seal, the hinge has relaxed with age and the extra fluff in the foam makes it close tight.

It took me a while to figure out how to re-install it without having help to push it down while riviting. I used 3" machine screws and ran about 6 through from behind. I then cranked down the nuts from the outside in a nice even torqe patterrn. That sucked the window in to the contur of the shell, and I was able to rivit it back in. I don't know if anyone else has used that method but it worked slick. All in all my first window repair was a sucsess!

I do have one more question? Should I seal the ends of the pop rivits with something?

The dark stuff on the frame is sillicone residue. When I have some more time I will try some remover and see if I can get the rest of it off. I plan on re-doing all of the windows this year. I will see if I can get all the rubber parts from one of those suppliers you listed. The rear windo is next and although it's not in nearly as bad of shape. It has also had a run-in with the silicone monster

Thank you again!
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Old 03-17-2010, 01:35 PM   #22
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I do have one more question? Should I seal the ends of the pop rivits with something?
Hi David,

I've always thought those particular Scamp windows were cool. I don't think they used them for very long, so they're a bit rare. I imagine that they are somewhat more prone to leaks than the side windows, being as they are square and have large opening panes, but are on the rounded back end of the camper (in other words, hard to keep tension on the bottom of the pane). Still, if you can keep them sealed they are nifty :yis

Assuming you used "regular" pop rivets, then yes, you should put a dollop of sealer on the very center/outside of the rivet (needless to say, not silicone ). Otherwise you have a hole (in the form of a tube) going through. Typically, one can then fit a vinyl covering strip along the sides to cover up the fasteners. This is mostly for looks, but will also keep the sun/UV off your caulk dollops.

I'm not sure if the vinyl trim will work on your windows due to the radiused corners, but perhaps you can customize it somehow.

Good on you for tackling "the silicone monster." Now you know why I stagger in shock and horror when the word is mentioned

For future reference (or other windows), you can also substitute machine screws for the rivets. I suspect that the main reason rivets were used on our eggs was for time/skill reasons at the factory. After all, they had to be competitive and the campers were made to be affordable for common folks. Rivets are much faster and easier to install in a factory production setting than screws and nuts would be.

Note that you can buy new "operators" for your windows (the crank mechanism). I think that both of the places I mentioned above have them.

Raya
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Old 03-22-2010, 01:25 PM   #23
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Wahoo! What a week!!! Just finished up with prep-week 2010. We made a few upgrades and modifications (as usual ) I have been talking about some of those in other threads over the winter, but I will list them all here. Got some pictures to add too! I want to thank FGRV and all of the helpful members that have contributed to the successes with the renovations of our happy little cabin on wheels.

Installed New Furnace

Rebuilt front window (Already mentioned)

Replaced dinette table with new Oak table

completely rebuilt front bunk, also in Oak. Glassed on new support on front wall.

Built upper side loft cabinets over the dinette.

Repaired a few leaks.

Bunch of other odds and ends I can't remember all of

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Old 03-22-2010, 01:27 PM   #24
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Old 03-22-2010, 01:28 PM   #25
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Old 03-22-2010, 01:32 PM   #26
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Old 03-29-2010, 10:22 AM   #27
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To Paint or Not to Paint? That is the question..... I am considering having our little egg repainted (Outside). I have a lot of holes and cracks to fix. I want to stay with a fairly close to factory color. My question is.... Do I have a car guy paint it? Or a boat guy gelcoat it? What are the benefits/disadvantages to the two different options? Bigger question... If I wanted to do it what kind of special equipment would I need to gelcoat?

TIA
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Old 03-29-2010, 05:04 PM   #28
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Completed the center cabinet over the dinette over the weekend. I also got started on the bolt on railing for the bunk bed!
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