great job David ... someone's been busy!
what do the switches on the switch panel control - is that essentially your circuit breaker?
i like your idea of one central spot for all switches - like a boat panel.
You know I like having all of my controls in one location. The panel under the sink as you see in the picture is not yet completed. I have since also added an analog battery
meter gage. The black switch on the right when pushed activates the meter. The first switch on the far left, sends power to a heavy duty solenoid style relay (Also mounted below the panel). This in turn closes the circuit to my power inverter. The inverter is connected directly to the battery
via 10AWG Wire through this relay. The inverter is permanently mounted directly behind the switch panel. On the left side of the sink cabinet is the power center. This particular unit has a smart charge controller, 3 120V 15A Breakers and 4 12V 25A Fused Circuits. There is an LED indicator light
for each fuse that will come on if a fuse blows. The converter charger is also 25A contentious run. And optimise's between charging and loads if there is heavy draw. The second switch from the left is for the water pump. Third is for my DVD/TV unit. (This unit draws power even when turned off so I like to have it on a switch. The Forth white switch is for future expansion.
The four 12V circuits built into the charge controller are wired this way. #1 25A is the charging circuit to the battery
. This is also the feed back circuit to power everything else from the battery (Power can go both ways on it). #2 #3 & #4 cannot draw power. These will be supplied current either from the battery through #1 or from the power converter, or if the load is significant the controller can use the battery to boost its own output, if the the combined concurrent demand on #2 #3 & #4 is greater than 25A. Of course this will deplete the battery if it is sustained. And total combined current draw cannot exceed a total of 50A This will cause #1 fuse to blow and the overload breaker built into the controller to trip. This is why I have my inverter fed from the battery. As a fail safe if something was to short, the main fuse would blow causing the relay to open. This would prevent the inverter from being damaged in the event of a short in one of the other circuits. The inverter also has an inline fuse in its wire from the battery (30A). Circuit # 2 powers lights
and cabin accessories. # 3 Is connected directly to the 3way Fridge
. #4 at this time powers only the water pump and the furnace
Because this is a work in progress and we actively use our trailer almost weekly in the summer months. The tendency is for me to make changes to the system all the time. I am not sure if this the best way to run things, but so far this configuration works well for me. I have not had any electrical
issues thus far. And the WFCO brand controller I bought on Ebay works very well. I am still going to add an Amp meter and maybe some solar
equipment. Once I have it all locked down as to how I will leave it configured I will label all the switches.
There are a couple pictures of the power center in the slide show. Hope this answered your questions!
Thank you again!