13' Scamp Work in Progress (Lots of Additions) - Fiberglass RV


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Old 10-09-2009, 10:25 AM   #1
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Trailer: 1977 Scamp 13 ft
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I am new to FGRV but I have been working on my 13' for a little over a year now. I have dun alot of additions, and have plans for a complete restoration.

Things added..

New Lights

New Battery G27

All new LPG Lines

All new wiring

New Water pump and full plumbing system

New Atword 6Gal Water Heater (Fit it in without it sticking out)

New Fridge LPG/12V/110

New Power Converter + Fuses and Breakers 25A-12V 30A110

Rebuilt an old vent hood, and installed it. (Made it 12V)

Built my own forced air heat system.. (Temporary until i get the new furnace)

Built Bunk Bed in front (was completely missing)

Door fronts and cabanit work (Door fronts are temporary)

Added a shower

-----------------------------------------

We have many future plans but here are some of my pictures... (Not in Order)

Summer 2010 is going to see all the cosmetics addressed...


http://www.pnoutdoors.com/projectscamp/ Lots of pictures (Most of my work is dun at night sorry they are so dark)

I f anyone has questions about the waterheater add please ask.. I will try to write up a full how to later... There is alot of things different I think I would do.. if I was to do it again...





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Old 10-09-2009, 12:16 PM   #2
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Welcome aboard. I see you have done a lot of work on your unit. It sounds like you have a complete handle on things. Good luck.
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Old 10-12-2009, 10:13 AM   #3
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We trailerd the horses up to the mountains this weeked. We have been seeing near freezing temps for a few weeks now out in central Wash. but this past weekend was well below freezing in the mountains. I have decited that if I am going to winter camp I need to loose the Mr. Buddy heater. The condensation is horrific. Its going to rott out my Scamp for sure. My door is all relaxed from being old and it froze shut from the condensation driping into the craks arround it. What can I do about the relaxaed door? Also I am looing at installing an Atwood Everest Star. Does anyone winter camp with one of thoose or similer? I am courios how warm it will keep it? I can handle the cold but the kids (And Baby) will need it nice and toasty! Any comments?

Thank you!
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Old 10-31-2009, 10:58 AM   #4
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We trailerd the horses up to the mountains this weeked. We have been seeing near freezing temps for a few weeks now out in central Wash. but this past weekend was well below freezing in the mountains. I have decited that if I am going to winter camp I need to loose the Mr. Buddy heater. The condensation is horrific. Its going to rott out my Scamp for sure. My door is all relaxed from being old and it froze shut from the condensation driping into the craks arround it. What can I do about the relaxaed door? Also I am looing at installing an Atwood Everest Star. Does anyone winter camp with one of thoose or similer? I am courios how warm it will keep it? I can handle the cold but the kids (And Baby) will need it nice and toasty! Any comments?

Thank you!
What can I do about the relaxaed door?

I had a similar problem, living in the same general area as you. I don't believe the door is really relaxing. What is happening, I believe, is the door was constructed using a pith board core to separate the outer skin from the inner fiberglass. That is saturated with water with no way for it to escape. If you take your door off it will probably weigh 20 to 30 pounds due to the water.

What I did was to remove enough of the inner panel with a circular saw set to just cut through the fiberglass then chopped out as much of the pith board as I could. Then I used a pressure washer to clean out the remaining. The door sprung into the proper shape! From there you have a choice on how you want to rebuild the inner side of your drawer. Whatever you use, it must not be so stiff that it straightens the bend in the door. DAMHIK (don't ask me how I know)

Does anyone winter camp with one of thoose or similer?

Mine originally had a camper furnace. I removed it because of the noise and excessive electrical usage. I replaced it with a propane fireplace designed for yachts. This is a wonderful for most nights, casting a warm ambiance of flickering flames throughout. However with the limited insulation of the Scamp, with the outside temps below freezing, it needs some help. On my 16 ft I mounted it in the wall to the bathroom next to the range. It has a fan, but not enough to keep the floor area warm. It is vented outside, though, so it can run all night and we are completely condensation free.

I plan to add a small catalytic heater and need to do this in the next week or so, before we take off for Missouri.

Hope this helps.
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Old 11-02-2009, 02:13 PM   #5
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Does anyone winter camp with one of thoose or similer?

Mine originally had a camper furnace. I removed it because of the noise and excessive electrical usage. I replaced it with a propane fireplace designed for yachts. This is a wonderful for most nights, casting a warm ambiance of flickering flames throughout. However with the limited insulation of the Scamp, with the outside temps below freezing, it needs some help. On my 16 ft I mounted it in the wall to the bathroom next to the range. It has a fan, but not enough to keep the floor area warm. It is vented outside, though, so it can run all night and we are completely condensation free.

I plan to add a small catalytic heater and need to do this in the next week or so, before we take off for Missouri.

Hope this helps.
Sweet can you post a pic of your fireplace? Also any model number on it so i can look it up?
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Old 11-07-2009, 12:50 AM   #6
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Very nice job! You had a lot to do.
Good documentation

Enjoy using it!

Fran
74 Compact II reno
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Old 03-03-2010, 05:30 PM   #7
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Name: Steve and Rosemary
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Utah
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Nice pictures and nice work! We just bought an '89 Scamp with a toilet, but no shower. Any details you could offer on how you added one? Also, our scamp has that "nautical" fabric all over the inside (except for the cabinets, counters, etc) walls. It's in good shape, but it's also in the bathroom so we've got to come up with a way to either cover it or replace it with something that's waterproof. Any ideas would be most appreciated!

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Old 03-03-2010, 06:42 PM   #8
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I'm interested in knowing about the paint you used for your fiberglass modules. And if, after rolling, a texture was left behind, or if you were able to achieve a smooth coat. How well is it adhering? Thanks.
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Old 03-05-2010, 03:30 PM   #9
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I'm interested in knowing about the paint you used for your fiberglass modules. And if, after rolling, a texture was left behind, or if you were able to achieve a smooth coat. How well is it adhering? Thanks.
I used house paint, I would not recomened it. It looks ok but chips easily and it did leave a texture. The fibergalss was so ugly I had to do something with it and I liked the colors I had on hand. I figured it would be easy to remove and repaint with the proper enamel when I am ready to do so. (and comit to a color schem The hardware store sells an appliance epoxy coat paint. Allthoug the color choises are lacking I was thinking about trying that and seeing how it comes out. My fiberglass knowledge is lacking so this might be a better question for someone more expericanced in such work. But if you are doing a touchup coat I think the appliance paint looks good. It has that glossy texture of a refridorator. It seems to gell well and over coating does not seem to stand out. Its arround $5 a can for arosol. The Previous Owner had at some point painted the walls with some kind of paint. I have not been able to identify it for sure but it seamed to work well. It is stark white. and fairly smoothe.

Thank you!
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Old 03-05-2010, 04:35 PM   #10
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I was just curious 'cuz in fact, I used Rustoleum Appliance paint for my Perris Pacer's interior modules. Worked great, and pretty tough. I chose an off-white "Biscuit" color to soften things and to compliment the new interior wall covering and wood work.


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Old 03-05-2010, 05:07 PM   #11
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Nice pictures and nice work! We just bought an '89 Scamp with a toilet, but no shower. Any details you could offer on how you added one? Also, our scamp has that "nautical" fabric all over the inside (except for the cabinets, counters, etc) walls. It's in good shape, but it's also in the bathroom so we've got to come up with a way to either cover it or replace it with something that's waterproof. Any ideas would be most appreciated!
I added my shower on the outside. its behind the door side rear fender. It was a kit off of Ebay for like $15. I wanted to do an inside shower conversion but I have 2 kids now so I need the bunks. I did alot of research on building a wet toilet into my scamp. If you have the bathroom allready you can likly make it work. You can get the shower faucet and head form the local RV store or from Ebay. There are severl RV catalogs that offer shower pans. If you are good with fiberglass you can build your own. Or you could cut and modify a factory one. Home Depot and the like sell shower wall materials that are flexable and plyable buy that in sheets of 4x8. Cut and peel off the mole hair on the walls of the shower and glue on the shower wall materials. If you dont go all the way to the ceeling you should be able to feness the panels so that your seams are fairly strait. If the walls are wooded you can coat them with a heavy duty coating that would be water resistant. Seal all the seams well and calk the heck out of any corrners. I saw one rig where the guy used tile and looked great.. But I doubt it will hold up. I assume your toilet has the black tank on the bottom of it. You will need to pull the whole thing out and cut a hole in the shower pan to work for the drain on the black tank. (If there is one) You can either install a Grey tank (If there is not one allready) or you can have the drain pipe come to a port where you can have it dump into a portable tank. In this situation is it ok to have the water feed pipes going up the wall of the bathroom. If you use PEX or somekind of plastic tubing they look ok. If you have the room to do so you could ferr out the wall on that side, and have the tubing and facucet mounted into the wall. Choose a shower head that is on a hose so you can pull it off the wall. Some of them have a valve on the sprayer so that you can consurve water. This is the case on my outside shower. Main thing to remember is that if water or moisture get under your panals or walls or the like it will mold or rott. You should also consider installing a vent into the ceeling above the shower if the bathroom does not already have one. I can give you more information on the outside shower installation if you would like.

BTW can you post some detailed pictures of your bathroom? I am courious how it exactly lays out. I might have a better idea for you!

Thank you!
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Old 03-15-2010, 10:14 AM   #12
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I added a furnace over the weekend. It works fantastic too. Although it is indeed pretty loud it will be alot safer for the kids. The install went pretty good and I am pleased with the outcome. The dealrship had to order me a grill for it and that will be in Tuesday. Once I put that on I can finish in around it and make the cabinet look finished again. You can see some of the pictures from the install in the thread "Adding a Furnace"

Shortly after I finished the furnace I decited to repair the door trim & gasket. I scraped and scraped and washed and washed. The gasket adhesive off. I readjusted the door and uest SS machine screws to reatach the strike plate. The door actualy works pretty good now. I realized that my door has not relaxed all that much. I beleive the real cause for the gaps is all the gasket was rotten and hard. I will be appling the new gasket tonight I hope. That is if I can find a good material around town.




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Old 03-15-2010, 10:14 AM   #13
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I added a furnace over the weekend. It works fantastic too. Although it is indeed pretty loud it will be alot safer for the kids. The install went pretty good and I am pleased with the outcome. The dealrship had to order me a grill for it and that will be in Tuesday. Once I put that on I can finish in around it and make the cabinet look finished again. You can see some of the pictures from the install in the thread "Adding a Furnace"

Shortly after I finished the furnace I decited to repair the door trim & gasket. I scraped and scraped and washed and washed. The gasket adhesive off. I readjusted the door and uest SS machine screws to reatach the strike plate. The door actualy works pretty good now. I realized that my door has not relaxed all that much. I beleive the real cause for the gaps is all the gasket was rotten and hard. I will be appling the new gasket tonight I hope. That is if I can find a good material around town.




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Old 03-15-2010, 10:14 AM   #14
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Trailer: 1977 Scamp 13 ft
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I added a furnace over the weekend. It works fantastic too. Although it is indeed pretty loud it will be alot safer for the kids. The install went pretty good and I am pleased with the outcome. The dealrship had to order me a grill for it and that will be in Tuesday. Once I put that on I can finish in around it and make the cabinet look finished again. You can see some of the pictures from the install in the thread "Adding a Furnace"

Shortly after I finished the furnace I decited to repair the door trim & gasket. I scraped and scraped and washed and washed. The gasket adhesive off. I readjusted the door and uest SS machine screws to reatach the strike plate. The door actualy works pretty good now. I realized that my door has not relaxed all that much. I beleive the real cause for the gaps is all the gasket was rotten and hard. I will be appling the new gasket tonight I hope. That is if I can find a good material around town.




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