16' 1981 Scamp frame off restoration/rebuild - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 05-22-2013, 12:41 PM   #15
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Name: Carol
Trailer: 22' Airstream Formerly 16' Scamp
British Columbia
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Originally Posted by KevinPete View Post
OK, thanks Carol- my fridge is under my stove. Didn't stop to think that the 16 layout is different.
No problem I am not sure myself as to what 16' layout the OP has but looking at the cabinet units they pulled out it appears that the layout is similar to my trailer with the stove/oven ahead of the fridge up beside the side bathroom wall.
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Old 05-23-2013, 09:30 PM   #16
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Name: Ken
Trailer: 1981 16' Scamp
Idaho
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The hole in the floor was under the stove. When I took everything out I noticed that the vent for the oven was not connected to the stove. The vent had been covered with duct tape. Also, the vent for the refrigerator allowed quite a bit of water to enter. I need to make sure that isn't a problem when I put things back together.
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Old 05-24-2013, 12:28 PM   #17
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Name: Randy
Trailer: 1980Trillium 1300
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Originally Posted by IdahoScamper View Post
My wife and I bought a 16' 1981 Scamp last year and I've decided to really work on refurbishing as much of it as I can since it turns out to need a new axle that I have ordered from Scamp.

Yesterday I took the back fiberglass modules out and found what I thought I was going to find... water damage. Especially on the left of the trailer where the oven/stove and refrigerator were. I'm guessing that neither of these appliances were the originals but it is possible that they were. The oven/stove is pink and the old refrigerator is a Dometic. Ever since I got it these two appliances haven't fit right due to a sagging floor and screws keep popping out.

Presumably this means I need to take the trailer off of the frame and replace the floor but I haven't seen many in depth articles about doing this. While I'm doing this I am going to have the frame sand blasted and repainted.

I'd like to keep everything original but I think I may have to build a new module for the stove and refrigerator since it seems to have been cut up quite a bit to fit the stove and refrigerator.

There are also some issues with sagging around the door and some poorly done patches to the roof that I'd like to address.

Does anyone have any tips on what to watch out for as I proceed down this long road? I'm particularly concerned about the floor repairs on the raised sections because of the attachment to the shell. I've never done much of this kind of work but I think, with lots of research and some tips from people here who have done this, I can do the work. I'm totally new to fiberglass work and hope I'm not getting myself in too deep.
I might got the same problem like yours. In my case, the previous owner had leak from front window( one screw was missed the inside wooden rail and make a hole. When I lift the interior out, I could see the light from inside of the shell). That hole after closely 30years damaged the floor at front left corner. When I took fridge and stove out, I also found out there is one drain hose for the fridge that didn't go thru the hole on the floor as it is supposed to. So that floor corner is rotten badly. Luckily I found out and fixed all the problems. Here is the photo of this area in my Trillium, the marker line is where I will cut and replace with new plywood after fixing and sealing the front window..
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Old 05-31-2013, 01:34 PM   #18
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Trailer: 1981 16' Scamp
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Okay, got the frame back from the welder and I'm going to sandblast and paint this weekend. Anyone have suggestions on what type of paint to use?
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Old 05-31-2013, 10:57 PM   #19
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I got some rustoleum primer and finish paint for the trailer today.

One thing I noticed while doing a little prep work tonight is that there was one area near the front that had some butyl tape between the floor and the frame. There was no rust there at all even though there was bare metal under the tape. I'm thinking maybe I should put that between the frame and the floor once I'm ready to install it.
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Old 06-04-2013, 09:05 AM   #20
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I got the new axle welded on the frame last week. The neighbor who does body work, and knows who did the work, recommended that I take it back to have them do better welds though. Meanwhile, I used a grinder with several different attachments to get the old paint and rust off the frame. What seemed to work best was the 24 grit sanding disks and then one of those wire brushes with the bristles that are twisted for tighter places. After this I used naval jelly to get what rust I couldn't get. It's not perfect but it should last another 20 years or so. There was no damage to the frame.

I bought 3 sheets of 5/8 marine plywood and my dad helped me by making some patterns of the old floor that I still need to take out. I'm still trying to decide whether to treat the top and the bottom of the new floor with resin. According to some posts here, if I treat both sides and water gets in, there isn't a way for it to get out. I don't want that. However, I'm not sure what to do about the bottom. I think it needs something to cover it so that it can breath. A friend suggested linseed oil. Does anyone have any suggestions?
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Old 06-04-2013, 09:13 AM   #21
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I will probably get dinged for this but they sell the rubber sealant like FlexSeal all over now for about $12 a can. They spray a screen door with it and float a boat after it cures. I have seen a rustoleum version also. I am thinking about it for my bottom side. Perhaps you can seal the edges of the wood and not sure what to do with the top. I would seal it too as I hope to make my floor water tight. JMHO.
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Old 06-04-2013, 09:36 AM   #22
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Wow. Looking pretty nice. I'm contemplating the same project maybe next summer. The one thing I really don't get though, is how to get the shell off. Since you've clearly just done it I'm hoping you might answer two questions. 1. How did you detach the shell from the frame? 2. How did you lift it off?
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Old 06-04-2013, 10:07 AM   #23
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Originally Posted by GrregP View Post
Wow. Looking pretty nice. I'm contemplating the same project maybe next summer. The one thing I really don't get though, is how to get the shell off. Since you've clearly just done it I'm hoping you might answer two questions. 1. How did you detach the shell from the frame? 2. How did you lift it off?
To detach the shell from the frame I had to use a hole cutting drill around each screw that connected the floor to the frame because the screws were so rusted in. After that I had to do one cut near the door because there was a piece of wood was there that connected to the frame and had been fiberglassed into place. I couldn't get this out without cutting through the floor and that wood. There is also some wiring to the brakes that I had to remove.

To raise the body off of the frame I lifted the whole thing up, supported the body on the sides, then lowered the back end of the frame first so that I could slide in a support under the back end of the body. After that I lowered the front end and did the same thing. When the frame was completely lowered I took the wheels off the frame and rolled it out on the drums from underneath.

Before I did this I watched this video:

Part 9. Removing the frame on a 17 ft. Boler trailer - YouTube
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Old 06-04-2013, 10:29 AM   #24
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Thanks for the detailed info! I'll watch the video this evening after work. So of I understand you correctly, the floor stayed with the shell when you dropped the frame down? Will you then have to cut the fiberglass that holds the floor to the shell? Sorry if I'm peppering you with too many questions, I'm just fascinated with the idea of doing this. If the video answers them then I'll find out tonight.
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Old 06-04-2013, 10:47 AM   #25
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Yes, the floor is fiberglassed directly to the fiberglass body.
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