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Old 02-13-2011, 12:51 PM   #1
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1971 Boler Custom renovation有et the fun begin!

As mentioned in previously placed posts, I have begun a total, ground-up restoration of a 1971 Boler. The only positive things I can say about this trailer is that MOST of the body/shell is intact, and the owners are terrific people with true vision and faith...

When the Boler arrived I noticed a serious lean to the streetside. Upon closer inspection, I discovered the subfloor on that side was nearly completely rotten. Originally, the subfloor is "glassed" to the shell用roviding both rigidity and support. But now there is nothing holding that side of the shell up.

Here's what it looked like when it arrived at The Egg Plant. I've circled some areas that will require some special attention...
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B2.jpg   B1.jpg  

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Old 02-13-2011, 12:57 PM   #2
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First order of business was to remove all of the interior furniture modules in order to get to the floor.

This required:
a) drilling out all of the original rivets; b) cutting through most of the rusted hold-down screws and bolts; and, c) cutting through areas where the modules where glassed to the rotten floor or the shell itself.
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Int4.jpg   Int8.jpg  

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Old 02-13-2011, 01:02 PM   #3
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Removing the subfloor meant more cutting around the glassed-in perimeter, and breaking loose all of the old hold-down screws and bolts. After supporting the corners of the shell with blocks, I eventually I got all of the old, rotten plywood off the frame. With these old Boler's, it's the subfloor that mates the shell to the frame. With the floor now gone, I can pull the frame out from under the shell.
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Old 02-13-2011, 01:23 PM   #4
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Party on, Bob!
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Old 02-13-2011, 02:00 PM   #5
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Our 1978 unit has a full 3/16th inch thick fiberglass sub-floor? Has ply and linoleum on top of that.

Will you add a fiberglass subfloor to protect the plywood?
Frame looks like new is in order.

Should be worth it when done though.
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Old 02-13-2011, 02:41 PM   #6
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As Borden has already keenly observed, the frame is history. Evidently, there had been some damage in the past, and some previous owner had done a terrible job "sistering" in a repair. Plus lots of rust, and a sag to the back that has displaced over 3" from square! I may be able to salvage the axle, as it is a "relatively" new Dexter TorFlex. I will, however, update the hubs, seals and bearings to accommodate new 15" wheels and tires.
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Old 02-13-2011, 02:53 PM   #7
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For those of you interested in the details, here's a drawing of my plans for the new frame.
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Old 02-13-2011, 03:09 PM   #8
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Now that the shell and frame are separated, I can begin to address the ensolite insulation/wall covering. Over the years, many patches to the seams and many coats of paint (trying to hide the flaws) had been applied. It was a mess and has to be replaced.

This, however, has become the most difficult task to date. Because of weakened rivets in the roof, water had infiltrated the shell over the years, creating pockets of water waiting to be released by a sharp knife! Joy. In other places, the original adhesive is still so strong I can only tear it loose by using a power tool.

When all of the ensolite is scraped clean from the fiberglass I will use a high-pressure water sprayer to remove any residue. Then I can prep the shell walls for any and all fiberglass repairs.
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Old 02-13-2011, 03:28 PM   #9
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Speaking of fiberglass repairs, here are a few of the problem areas that will need serious attention.

Of course, a new subfloor needs to be installed and glassed in as well. Unlike newer models, these older Bolers did not feature a fiberglass layer between the frame and subfloor. Which, obviously, makes the plywood extremely vulnerable, as was the case here.

To protect the new floor I will do a couple things: 1) the exposed "outside" surface will get a generous coating of resin (as will the ply edges and any pre-drilled holes); and 2) everything gets another coating of two-part marine epoxy.

In fact, after the fiberglass repairs are made to the body, and the new subfloor and all of my planned furniture mounting brackets/cleats are also glassed into place (no more through-shell rivets!), the entire interior is coated with the epoxy— making everything water-tight before the new insulation and wall coverings are installed.
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Old 02-13-2011, 03:42 PM   #10
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Here are some drawings of what I have in mind for the exterior—if everything comes together as I hope...

You may have noticed that the styling of this 1971 model is much like that of contemporary Scamps, and actually predates the recessed taillight feature of later Bolers. But I'm considering doing some custom body work to emulate that iconic look.

Also of note, the client has also asked for radius-cornered modern windows. Because of the custom interior design, I plan on using a "Perris Pacer"-size window for the street-side.
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Old 02-13-2011, 03:42 PM   #11
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I have that same crack above my door.
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Old 02-13-2011, 04:01 PM   #12
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And this is what we have planned for the interior...
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Old 02-13-2011, 05:59 PM   #13
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Really like the layout!
Meets the two main needs very well.
Is the stove sink unit a picture of the new unit?
The bed extender is a great idea; with lots of counter space for cooking

The Maple leaf at back has the Wow factor.

Will you put the drinking and grey water above grade?
Wish ours was or at the least had insulation between the outside and tanks for those colder days. (we winter camp and it gets cold in Canada)

Will you add fridge under counter, hot water and what about furnace for heating?

P.S. the retro rear light idea would also be trick. It would give the boler signature.
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Old 02-13-2011, 06:07 PM   #14
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Can't wait to watch your progress, Robert. Do you know how wide your layout will make the bed?

Melissa
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