1973 Compact II by Hunter - Page 3 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 11-30-2005, 09:53 PM   #29
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Name: Darrel
Trailer: 73 13 ft Hunter Compact II
Nevada
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Hello Brian BP thanks for your thumbs up on the hitch mod. I actually borrowed the idea from off road trailer units that I have seen. By using a receiver tube I can change the type of tow hitch. I have a regular ball hitch for highway use and a pintle ring for off road towing. The pintle ring or lunette eye as it is known is a donut shaped steel ring which locks loosly into the tow pintle type hitch which allows more severe angle while towing off road. Because this fits loosly there is some bangs and jerks between the hitch and the eye but it is at low speed and off road where it is expected. The conventional ball mount option would limit this angle off road but mounts more solidly to the tow ball hitch while towing on road thus eliminating the bangs and jerks while traveling at highway speeds. The adjustment allows for different tows even those not set up with a receiver, like a bumper mounted ball.
My camping options, when I am completed, will include table or awning mounts or other not yet planned uses, by removing the hitch and sliding them into the receiver.This could also be used to extend the tongue even more by allowing a hitch extender to be usedfor bike carriers tire mounts etc. For security the whole thing could be removed while camping or parked thus preventing unauthorized tow aways.

Here are a couple of closer pictures of the on and off road hitch set ups.


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Old 11-30-2005, 09:55 PM   #30
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On road towing:


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Old 11-30-2005, 09:57 PM   #31
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off road towing:


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Old 11-30-2005, 09:59 PM   #32
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Here are some other pictures of my rebuild

This is the 12 volt distribution box:


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Old 11-30-2005, 10:02 PM   #33
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110 volt panel:


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Old 11-30-2005, 10:04 PM   #34
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This picture shows the diamond sewn vinyl over the dinette/bed area:


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Old 11-30-2005, 10:07 PM   #35
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This is a view of the left water service side of the trailer:




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Old 11-30-2005, 10:11 PM   #36
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Here is a close up of the raised roof:





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Old 11-30-2005, 10:21 PM   #37
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Trailer: 73 13 ft Hunter Compact II
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Here is a trailer magazine advertisment for small trailers and a motor home which someone posted on the forum BH (BEFORE HACKERS). This is the only before picture I have of my trailer. Fortunately it turned out to be red like mine.



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Old 12-01-2005, 08:28 AM   #38
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Darrel,
Excellent work! The II looks better than when it left Chatsworth, CA. I like the Bronco, but you should keep an eye out for a "Starsky & Hutch" Torino in red and white. It'd be a perfect match.
'
Hunter Structures had some 'interesting' ideas about color both outside and inside the Compacts. My Jr. must have looked like something from "Hawaii Five O" with its lime green gelcoat and flowered upholstry. Tom Trostel

http://albums.photo.epson.com/j/ViewPhoto?...0373&p=70829561
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Old 12-01-2005, 05:29 PM   #39
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Trailer: 16 ft Casita and 1973 Compact Jr / 2002 Dodge Ram 1500
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Darrel what is the distance from the body of the camper to the end of the tongue? I'm planning to add three feet to my tongue (with heavier material of course) to mount a catch-all tool box there.
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Old 12-01-2005, 07:15 PM   #40
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Trailer: 73 13 ft Hunter Compact II
Nevada
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Hello Emmit

I dont remember the exact dimensions but I believe it is about 48 inches to the buldog ball coupler from the frame. I will get exact if you need.

Three feet additional tongue framing would definately give you plenty of room. Will that be in addition to the existing tongue. If so that would make about 6 feet total tongue length. Great for backing and lots of room and definately plenty of tongue weight.

I plan to add about 300 pounds on my tongue but plan to counter that with about 120 pounds in back. so should net about 180 pounds of actual tongue weight. I dont know what my actual total and tongue weight will be until I finish my mods and have it weighed. I know my frame has added more weight than the original frame but I will be cutting down on interior mods to compensate.

Darrel
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Old 12-01-2005, 07:48 PM   #41
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Trailer: Boler (B1700RGH) 1979
Alberta
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Quote:
... I plan to add about 300 pounds on my tongue but plan to counter that with about 120 pounds in back. so should net about 180 pounds of actual tongue weight...
Since anything added to the back will be closer to the axle than the additions on the tongue, the net effect won't be just the difference. It's a matter of balancing torques, and torque is distance multiplied by force.

This is how I would go about estimating the net effect:
  1. I would measure from the axle to the rear weight location, multiply that by the rear weight added, and call that the torque tilting the trailer back.
  2. I would do the same at the front (distance from axle to tongue area mulitplied by weight added to the tongue) and call that the torque tilting the trailer forward.
  3. Subtract, and I'd have the net effect (as torque)
  4. Divide net torque by the distance from the axle to the ball, and the result is how much weight will be carried by the hitch - the rest will be carried by the axle.
For example,
  1. 120 lbs 4 ft behind the axle is 480 lb-ft tilting back
  2. 300 lbs on the tongue 8 ft ahead of the axle is 2400 lb-ft tiliting forward
  3. 2400 minus 480 is 1920 lb-ft net torque
  4. 1920 lb-ft divided by 10 feet from axle to ball means 192 lb net hitch weight increase
My distances are only guesses, but my guess is somewhat higher than the result of just subracting 120 from 300. Darrel, your subtraction doesn't account for the fact that the tonque weight is further from the axle than the rear weight, but you also didn't account for the fact that the coupler is further from the axle than the added weight on the tongue area, so the two factors partially cancel each other out. I'll assume you took that into account...

An extra couple hundred pounds sounds to me like a lot of extra hitch weight for a Bronco II, but I don't know what its limits are.
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Old 12-01-2005, 07:58 PM   #42
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Darrel, thanks for the detailed information about the interchangeable coupling hardware. Now that I realize your're using a pintle-and-hook for offroad conditions, it all makes sense.

Some commercial trailers use pintle rings like Darrel's, bolted into a channel the same way. I have seen trailers which mount a ball coupler the same way, which would allow interchanging without needing the 2" square receiver setup. I guess an advantage of Darrel's receiver is that the changeover is an easy one-pin operation with a spring clip, instead of two bolts with nuts.


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The image shows the coupler of a Trailtech L270HD, with a 12' dump box and 14,000 lb of axle capacity - a little bit heavier-duty than our eggs, but the principles are the same.

There are also special couplers for trailers which go off-road, some of which do not use a ball at all and still don't have the free play of a pintle setup. As an alternative, some people set up the ball coupler on the end of a section of round tubing which is free to rotate, so that it doesn't hit a limit as the rig twists; I don't know how smoothly that handles twisting while the rig turns a corner.
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