1974 Boler Resto. Oops, I did it again... - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 05-07-2012, 04:03 PM   #15
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I was thinking about a carbon fiber Boler. Carbon is 1/3 the weight of fiberglass. What does all the fiberglass weigh?

I have been thinking the same thing for years. would be amazing. but expensive seems to be the trend on carbon fiber.
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Old 06-16-2012, 10:52 AM   #16
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I've been steadily, if slowly, making progress on the restoration of the fiberglass shell of this 74 Boler. When last we visited, the top half had been removed from the bottom. In the interim, I discovered that the seams holding the floor pan to the bottom shell were also in very bad shape. So, again, out came the Multi-tool and the two forms were separated.

Flipping the pan over revealed a lot of problems with the 38 year old floor construction. Weaknesses in the original FG had allowed some of the wood "stiffeners" to warp and rot over the years.

All the bad wood was cut out and replaced with new lumber. All vulnerable areas of the FG were reglassed.
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Old 06-16-2012, 10:58 AM   #17
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We've put the floor pan and the bottom shell back together and reglassed the entire inner seam. Then we flipped the unit back over to get to the underside again in order to reglass that same seam from underneath. Absolutely no chance of water infiltration, and tremendous shell strength integrity.
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Old 06-16-2012, 11:06 AM   #18
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I had a new frame built. A spare tire carrier is integrated onto the rear bumper. It will go to the powder-coater next week.

A new Dexter Tor-Flex axle with e-brakes has been mounted to the frame. Because I choose to run 15" wheels and tires, I have 10" (rather than standard 7") brakes for extra stopping power.
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Old 06-16-2012, 11:14 AM   #19
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I've discovered that one of the hardest issues to resolve with these restorations is getting a really good fit between the shell and entry door.

With the shell in separate pieces, we were able to lock the door and the bottom shell together, more or less forcing the two pieces to conform tightly, before any of the reglassing was done. When the new glass dried and hardened, the curve of the door and shell were as close as we could hope to get them.
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Old 06-16-2012, 12:06 PM   #20
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cracked egg

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Originally Posted by Spanke View Post
Cracked open like a soft boiled egg! You must be Yoking!:

Spanke

Good One! I needed that!
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Old 06-16-2012, 12:23 PM   #21
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Robert can you buy resin that is thicker or sets differently, so that it doesn't run and stays put on vertical surfaces?
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Old 06-16-2012, 02:49 PM   #22
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I am certainly no expert on the chemical properties of FG resin, but I have experienced mixtures that have differing viscosities.

But there's not much one can do about keeping resin on a vertical surface except to infuse it into FG cloth or mat. Sometimes FG "fillers" can be added to create a very thick paste that can then be spread onto a vertical surface with little sag.
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Old 06-16-2012, 06:22 PM   #23
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..............Because I choose to run 15" wheels and tires, I have 10" (rather than standard 7") brakes for extra stopping power.
Nice work! I am impressed with the depth that you have taken this.

When I was messing with my UHaul I discovered that 10" electric brakes will fit into a 13" or larger wheel - just for others' reference.
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Old 06-16-2012, 09:04 PM   #24
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Really great work Robert! That is going to be one very fine little egg.
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Old 06-23-2012, 06:10 PM   #25
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After the floor pan was completely re-glassed to the bottom shell, the entire bottom surface was coated with undercoating to further ensure protection from water. Perhaps overkill, but the undercoating will fill any tiny holes or gaps I couldn't exactly see, help protect any exposed hardware, and give the bottom a finished look.
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Old 06-23-2012, 06:30 PM   #26
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With the bottom now water tight, I made templates and cut patterns for the new subfloor. 3/4" plywood was bonded to the FG pan with construction adhesive and SS screws. I managed to get a pretty snug fit around the perimeter, but for good measure I sealed all of the gaps with caulk.

With the subfloor now locked down, I can layout floor-mounted "cleats" etc. in anticipation of the future furniture modules. Any exposed plywood gets a coating of 2-part epoxy paint or finished surface material such as linoleum or cork tiles in the visible areas, or "outdoor" carpet for the hidden areas under benches, etc...
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Old 06-23-2012, 06:32 PM   #27
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I love overkill!
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Old 06-23-2012, 06:38 PM   #28
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Since there has been a fair amount of work required to get the shell in shape for paint, I decided to "french" the Boler's taillight pot forms into the body for a custom look.

We saturated small strips of heavy gauge FG cloth with resin, then sandwiched them between the shell and the pots. Screws were used to hold them together until it all set-up and dried. After removing the screws, the pots were then fiberglassed again on the backside.

Next step is to bondo the outside seams and work the material into a nice, smooth look.

Also note the disk of plywood FG'ed to the backside of the pots. This gives me a lot of material to securely mount my taillights.
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