1974 Boler Resto. Oops, I did it again... - Page 5 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 06-28-2012, 02:50 PM   #57
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Shower fixtures ordered. Sadly they use their own type quick connects, not standard hose quick connects, but they do offer hose adapters for their style.
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Old 07-04-2012, 05:17 PM   #58
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Every day we are making slow but steady progress...

In regards to the fiberglass body work and repairs, most of the heavy lifting has been accomplished. We now have the bottom shell mounted to the frame. (A layer of high-density RV foam tape went between the frame and the tub. Six carriage bolts run through the floor and frame tightened things down.) Very soon we will be mating the top shell to the bottom and re-glassing the "belly" seam.

We made quite a few "cut-outs" in the bottom shell to accommodate the side markers, access hatches, and utility ports. To ensure that these components can be secured well to the shell, we glassed-in wood "backers" that framed all of the holes on the inside. Now I can run my SS fasteners through the shell wall and into solid material for a strong hold.

We also glassed-in what I call "cleats" wood blocks that will allow us to mount the cabinetry framework to the shell without drilling through it.

All of these backers and cleats are "glued" to the shell wall with a thick layer of resin-saturated FG matt, and held tightly in place with a few screws until dry.

The exterior of all of these cut-outs and screw holes will be dressed up and made pretty with body filler before we go to paint.
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Old 07-04-2012, 06:01 PM   #59
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Awesome, cant wait to find another Boler I can rebuild my way just as you are doing. I look forward to seeing your pics as you progress through the build.
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Old 07-06-2012, 04:55 PM   #60
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We also glassed-in what I call "cleats" wood blocks that will allow us to mount the cabinetry framework to the shell without drilling through it.
I'd love more info on your "cleats" because I want to do exactly that. Attach shelves, shower curtains etc. without a hole in the shell.

I was thinking of just wrapping a bolt head in fiberglass cloth and sticking it on there. I have the added disadvantage of wanting to do this with the reflextix and fur in place.

A thread I started on this specific subject.
http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/f...-it-52994.html
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Old 07-08-2012, 06:56 PM   #61
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With my fiberglass body man sick this past week, I've jumped my standard re-build queue by a few steps and got started on some interior and mechanical details.

With all of the fiberglass work completed to the inside of the bottom shell and tub, the undercarriage completed undercoated, and all of my subfloors installed topside, it was time to mate the shell with the frame. Six big bolts into the floor and through the frame should be good. I decided to use galvanized hardware this time around 'cuz mounting stainless nuts to stainless bolts can sometimes create some kind of molecular bond where the two metals seize together. (Go ask an engineer!)

With the bottom shell mounted to the frame I decided to coat all surfaces inside with epoxy paint. Makes everything look nice and clean, plus should give me a good surface to glue my insulation and flooring, etc. (You'll note the the paint does not go to the top edge. We still have to glass the bottom shell to the top at the belly joint...)
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Old 07-08-2012, 07:04 PM   #62
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Moving on to the install of some of the rough utilities.

First up, a Tekonsha Prodigy "RF" brake controller. This is cool 'cuz it's operated by a remote handheld device plugged into a CLA power port inside the TV. Which means that the remote can be moved to and from ANY TV without hard wiring each vehicle with a separate controller.

With the controller bolted to the front of the frame, I could then bring the 7-pin harness up through the floor in front and lock it down for connection to my DOT applications. I use two separate buss blocks, with one dedicated to all of the ground connections. The ground buss is tied directly to the frame. (I have a second redundant ground buss near the cabin's yet-to-come on-board electrical set-up in the rear, also tied to the frame.)

The inside DOT wiring has been secured to the floor and waits until the body and paint have been completed and the lights are installed.
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Old 07-08-2012, 07:18 PM   #63
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keeping the "cleat" technology to yourself Robert?

Can you comment if you think I'm on a possibly useful technique here?
Attach points on the shell without piercing it?

Epoxy paint?? Is that a two part mix? Or a solvent based dries out of the can type thing? Because I want my plywood floor completely sealed and waterproofed. Not any of this "water resistant" stuff.

I find it amazing Scamp built this awesome moisture proof fiberglass trailer and put in a floor that starts to swell and disintegrate when it get's a glass of water spilled on it. How much would it have cost them to use marine plywood or to seal the top with a layer of glass or at least a coat of resin?? And they glued down open celled foam on top of that so any moisture is held to that cheap plywood for ages until it dries, no quick way of stopping moisture from soaking in?

I have a can of polyurethane sealer/coating, but I've been looking for a more serious epoxy like substance.

Awesome and inspiring work Robert, as always!!!

PS, the RF brake controller looks awesome! I trust CBs and mobile phones will not interfere?! I still haven't wired my brake controller in.
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Old 07-08-2012, 07:30 PM   #64
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The two-stage propane regulators required by law are ugly and sometimes vulnerable to road debris when attached at or near the front-loaded propane tanks. I prefer to mount mine to the frame, tucked up out of the way. A short connection redirects the gas up into the cabin for future distribution to my three gas appliances tankless water heater, cooktop and space heater.

Though I like the 3-way Dometic refrigerators, I don't like the hassle of switching power sources, and I don't like the ugly intake and exhaust vents. So I'm going with an Engel AC/DC frig. I'll let you know if I live to regret this decision.

And though I also like the Olympia Wave3 cat heater, in reality I rarely use it. And engineering a custom "built-in" look is, well, complicated. So this time around I decided to simply keep the heater on its proprietary stand in a cabinet until needed. A quick-connect hose system will provide the gas.

(BTW, I hate to throw away old or superfluous hardware or fittings. I "re-purpose" all kinds of things to make a job cleaner. In this case, some plumbing fittings made for a tight pass-through for the copper propane line.)
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Old 07-08-2012, 07:32 PM   #65
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the photos...
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Old 07-08-2012, 07:40 PM   #66
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Speaking of re-purposing...

Bigger, more powerful water pumps are great for delivering good pressure to sink faucets and showers. But they can be very noisy, AND transmit vibration through the surface to which it is attached.

To help mitigate this problem, I glued some dense packing foam from a shipping box to a piece of scrap wood and slipped it under the pump for some added shock absorption.
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Old 07-08-2012, 07:46 PM   #67
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In your situation, Dylan, in order for the cleats to work, you need to cut away both the rat fur and insulation, then prep/clean the FG wall. Then it's a matter of slathering on the FG resin onto the wall and your block, sticking it in position and waiting for it to harden up.

The epoxy paint I use is a one-part product the same tough stuff used to seal concrete floors in garages.
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Old 07-08-2012, 07:55 PM   #68
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In your situation, Dylan, in order for the cleats to work, you need to cut away both the rat fur and insulation, then prep/clean the FG wall. Then it's a matter of slathering on the FG resin onto the wall and your block, sticking it in position and waiting for it to harden up.

The epoxy paint I use is a one-part product the same tough stuff used to seal concrete floors in garages.
Excellent, thanks. So you think those attach points I've made will hold as long as I get a good bond to the shell? I'm not ready to pull all my fur and reflectix down. So we shall see if I can get behind there with a small incision or if I'm just delusional.

I'll look for some of that Epoxy paint.
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Old 07-08-2012, 07:59 PM   #69
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Last item on this week's progress (and then I'll shut up already...):
gray water drain from the yet-to-be-installed galley sink...

Since I am not keen on creating holes in a freshly painted shell, I tried to pre-determine a good location for the sink drain. Turns out the best spot for me was through the floor, rather than the shell, just inside the front curbside corner apron. Easy enough to reach and out of the way, nice and tidy.
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Old 07-12-2012, 04:08 PM   #70
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This has been a great thread Robert! It just so happens that I'm a few steps behind you on my reno so this has helped immensely. Thanks
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