1974 Boler Resto. Oops, I did it again... - Page 6 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 07-12-2012, 07:14 PM   #71
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Cool. Paul! I hope I've been a help... I'd love to hear more about your project.

Today we muscled the top shell onto the bottom, clamped it into alignment, and fiberglassed the "belly" seam on the inside. (Of course the shell was prepped to receive the new FG/resin combo.) You'll notice a band about 5" wide does the trick. The heavy-duty FG material is quite thick, almost an 1/8", so when thoroughly saturated, is super-strong when all cured.
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Old 07-12-2012, 07:24 PM   #72
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I'm very excited about the "frenched" taillight pots on this Boler. My body guy did a really nice job on them, as well as on the edges around my "built-in" hatch and covers. Obviously, these items take extra labor/time, but what am I gonna do?
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Old 07-14-2012, 04:30 PM   #73
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What do you call the connector that is handling the incoming 7-wire?
I can see a ground/common bus for the white wires, and there is a very tidy connector next to it for the green/brown/yellow/etc wire. What's that called?



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Moving on to the install of some of the rough utilities.

First up, a Tekonsha Prodigy "RF" brake controller. This is cool 'cuz it's operated by a remote handheld device plugged into a CLA power port inside the TV. Which means that the remote can be moved to and from ANY TV without hard wiring each vehicle with a separate controller.

With the controller bolted to the front of the frame, I could then bring the 7-pin harness up through the floor in front and lock it down for connection to my DOT applications. I use two separate buss blocks, with one dedicated to all of the ground connections. The ground buss is tied directly to the frame. (I have a second redundant ground buss near the cabin's yet-to-come on-board electrical set-up in the rear, also tied to the frame.)

The inside DOT wiring has been secured to the floor and waits until the body and paint have been completed and the lights are installed.
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Old 07-14-2012, 06:22 PM   #74
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I refer to it as a buss block, but the labeling on a similar product calls it a connector block. I guess either is more descriptive than thingamajig.
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Old 07-14-2012, 08:48 PM   #75
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My current spaghetti nest of wire nuts was too ugly. I like the tidyness of your connections, and I think that it will come in handy to be able to undo things later.

I ended up ordering this thing-a-ma-jig:

"Screw Connector Electric Barrier Terminal Block"

Amazon.com: 600V 15A Dual Row 8P Screw Connector Electric Barrier Terminal Block: Car Electronics
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Old 07-14-2012, 10:15 PM   #76
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Electric barrier terminal block! That's what I meant to say!
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Old 07-15-2012, 06:22 PM   #77
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I saw these photos and I am in shock and awe! I am just new to the fiberglass trailer world so of course I am scared, but I admire your drive! Wow!
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Old 07-15-2012, 11:11 PM   #78
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I saw these photos and I am in shock and awe! I am just new to the fiberglass trailer world so of course I am scared, but I admire your drive! Wow!
Why are you scared? You should have no fear! There is no doubt this will turn out fantastic.

Or are YOU about to pull apart a trailer?
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Old 07-15-2012, 11:15 PM   #79
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I'm very excited about the "frenched" taillight pots on this Boler. My body guy did a really nice job on them, as well as on the edges around my "built-in" hatch and covers.
I love the details, can't wait to see it painted. What color/colors? Or is that a surprise?


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Obviously, these items take extra labor/time, but what am I gonna do?
I'm finding much of the really cool stuff I want to/am doing to mine takes MUCH longer than I'd have guessed. Just hope it's worth it. (For me, I have no doubt it will be worth it for you.)
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Old 07-17-2012, 10:39 PM   #80
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Here are a couple of shots for those curious about mounting anchor blocks to the inside of a shell without drilling new holes.

With my interior plan drawn up with pretty tight dimensions, I have a very clear idea where my cabinetry will be placed, and subsequently, where my support "cleats" need to be placed.

I use an industrial automotive 2-part epoxy to "glue" 2x2x.75" plywood blocks to pre-determined points marked on the shell. This stuff dries hard in 90 seconds, so ya gotta work fast.

In order to mount cabinetry at 90 to the horizontal and vertical planes, some blocks have square edges, others are beveled in varying degrees to accommodate for the curvature of the shell body.
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Old 07-17-2012, 10:58 PM   #81
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A thick swath of FG matte and resin inside reattaching the top and bottom shells has now ensured complete water-proofing at the belly seam.

However, the shells' molding "flanges" that are usually covered with the aluminum belly band are very misshapen and ill-fitting. In time water and dirt could migrate into the gaps of the seam. So to keep the crud out of the seam, I filled all the gaps with a sealer.

Now with all of the exterior body work complete, next stop, paint booth!
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Old 07-18-2012, 03:25 PM   #82
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Here are a couple of shots for those curious about mounting anchor blocks to the inside of a shell without drilling new holes.

With my interior plan drawn up with pretty tight dimensions, I have a very clear idea where my cabinetry will be placed, and subsequently, where my support "cleats" need to be placed.

I use an industrial automotive 2-part epoxy to "glue" 2x2x.75" plywood blocks to pre-determined points marked on the shell. This stuff dries hard in 90 seconds, so ya gotta work fast.

In order to mount cabinetry at 90 to the horizontal and vertical planes, some blocks have square edges, others are beveled in varying degrees to accommodate for the curvature of the shell body.
Very cool, thanks for that info!

My larger new woodwork will mostly be anchored to the floor, and my shelves I was hoping to support with something small, something mostly invisible when the shelf is not in place. But long wood strips cut to shape might make good supports. But how to do it without replacing all my rat fur or leaving ugly disturbances in it. Hmmm....
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Old 07-18-2012, 03:26 PM   #83
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Now with all of the exterior body work complete, next stop, paint booth!
Can't wait!!!!

If you don't mind me asking, just ballpark, how much does a good 13' egg repaint cost?

I guess having the prep done before going to the painters lowers that cost considerably.
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Old 08-04-2012, 06:13 PM   #84
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Paint complete!

Brought the Boler home from the paint shop on Thursday. Looks great. Got busy right away attaching components to the shell, and installing the DOT lighting. (LED all around.)

The entire shell was first prepped using a polyester-based primer known as "Slick Sand." Evidently, it's a bit thicker than most and hides a multitude of sins. The top half was painted a bright white, slightly on the cool (blue) side. The bottom half got treated with a tinted "bed-liner" texture coat, then topped off with a Lexus color called "Bamboo" mostly silver with a touch of green.

I'm not a big fan of the look of uncoordinated "add-ons", so I did my best to integrate the ancillary ports and hatches into the shell.
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