Robert,
Great job on the boler. Just have a question about all the cabnetery. How did you go about attaching all the cabinets you had built to the fiberglass shell.
Thanks
Jason.
Robert,
Great job on the boler. Just have a question about all the cabnetery. How did you go about attaching all the cabinets you had built to the fiberglass shell.
Thanks
Jason.
I'm not Robert, but he posted that information on page 6... post #80: Direct Link
I bookmarked the info, just incase anyone else asked the same kind of question in a different thread
__________________
Donna D.
Ten Forward - 2014 Escape 5.0 TA
Double Yolk - 1988 16' Scamp Deluxe
While attempting to hang my upper cabinets to the wood anchor blocks I had cemented to the shell (as described earlier) the glue failed and the blocks broke free!
I do not know if this was user-error or if I was expecting too much performance from the cement, in any case, I had to find another way to attach the blocks to the shell with complete confidence that they would not fall.
(BTW, this was not an issue for the blocks used to keep the LOWER cabinetry tight and in place. Gravity and floor attachment points did not allow as much stress on the wall blocks as the UPPERs were creating.)
My solution? Three stainless steel carriage bolts. It' a bit complicated, but here's what I did to insure a strong and leak-proof connection:
1) Through the shell I drilled a hole to the exact width of the bolt shank.
2) To this hole I took a small flat file and made the round hole "square" in order to receive the square neck of the carriage bolt. This step insures that carriage bolt could seat into the shell and NOT spin.
3) I then wrapped the top end of the bolt's threads and neck with a bead of butyl putty, pushed the bolt through the square hole until it "seated" tightly against the FG. Inside I added a small SS washer and nut, then tightened until the butyl putty eased out. The tight fit and putty should prevent any water infiltration.
4) To my new plywood block I bored a hole for the bolt shank AND a shallow void to allow the nut/washer at the shell to "countersink" into the block.
5) With a liberal amount of construction adhesive applied onto the block and filling the countersink hole, the block got pushed onto the shaft and squeezed to the shell. (This glue will also help prevent water leaks around the bolt, should the butyl putty fail.)
6) Another SS washer and nut then got spun onto the bolt shaft and the block was tightened to the shell. BUT not TOO tight, just enough to squeeze out a little adhesive. Overtightening could either distort or crack the shell exterior.
7) With the adhesive dry, and the bolt insuring that there was no way for the block to pull away, the block was now firmly affixed to the shell, and ready to use as an anchor for my cabinets.
While attempting to hang my upper cabinets to the wood anchor blocks I had cemented to the shell (as described earlier) the glue failed and the blocks broke free!
...........
Robert, what kind of glue were you using? Do you ever use 3M 5200?
Robert, Truly this is the Most Amazing redo, rebuild, project I have ever seen!
You are a talented atistc craftsman! A Plus! Will bookmark this one. Love the finger holes in the cabinets.
The floorplan makes so much sense. I saw a tab trailer a few years ago, small space but the floor plan was similiar to yours in relation to the location of the bed and the L shape kitchen with long counter top and lots of cabinets.
While attempting to hang my upper cabinets to the wood anchor blocks I had cemented to the shell (as described earlier) the glue failed and the blocks broke free!
Robert, that's a bummer about the blocks/glue failing. I am planning to anchor my cabinets the same as your initial design - glue. I was thinking that I would additionally reinforce the blocks with straps of fiberglass mat (in a cross pattern). Do you figure this would prevent the blocks from ripping out? I really don't want to put holes in the body...
Robert, that's a bummer about the blocks/glue failing. I am planning to anchor my cabinets the same as your initial design - glue. I was thinking that I would additionally reinforce the blocks with straps of fiberglass mat (in a cross pattern). Do you figure this would prevent the blocks from ripping out? I really don't want to put holes in the body...
Trillium did something similar for some of their accessories. I am thinking of the Bunk bar to keep kids from falling out of the top bunk.
Hey Robert just a quick question to you or any one that knows the answer .. when you insulated and put on the hull liner how did you manage to curve it around the beveled corners of the shell with out having wrinkles . I want to rip the ugly foam off my walls and do the same but i don't understand how you were able to do it
Hey Robert just a quick question to you or any one that knows the answer .. when you insulated and put on the hull liner how did you manage to curve it around the beveled corners of the shell with out having wrinkles . I want to rip the ugly foam off my walls and do the same but i don't understand how you were able to do it
I am curious about the walls. What was used for insulation, covering?
My rat fur has got to go! May be my spring project!
Also, you have some type of clasp/lock for all the drawers? Or so do they just magically stay in place while traveling?
Slav,
You know, I'm not sure what happened... I think my blocks probably failed due to pilot error — not enough time or attention to the surface prep. It's also possible that I put too much pressure driving fasteners into the blocks. Nevertheless, next time I'll prep very diligently, use a quick drying glue to hold the blocks in position, and tightly wrap resin/matt around the blocks. Then I'll be more careful when attaching the cabinets to the blocks.
Farmer,
Hulliner does NOT stretch like "rat fur," so working the corners is tricky. You have to carefully plan out your cuts. I was able to hide a lot of seams behind cabinetry. And where seams are visible, butting two very clean and straight edges together doesn't look too bad.
(BTW, Reflectix as an insulator is more efficient WITHOUT a wall covering over it. So, hidden wall areas are better off uncovered.)
Dylan,
I use "rooster" latches on the inside of all doors and drawers. These are accessible through the finger holes.
"Wandering Violet"....Ozzy has been reassigned.
1985 U-Haul (Sold) CT
Scamp 16 (current)
Perris Pacer
Scamper
Trailswest Campster
Cantaloupe
Launch Pad
Life Support
Wedding Gift
Linear Mode
