1974 Boler Resto. Oops, I did it again...

[Robert Johans]

With my fiberglass body man sick this past week, I've jumped my standard re-build queue by a few steps and got started on some interior and mechanical details.

With all of the fiberglass work completed to the inside of the bottom shell and tub, the undercarriage completed undercoated, and all of my subfloors installed topside, it was time to mate the shell with the frame. Six big bolts into the floor and through the frame should be good. I decided to use galvanized hardware this time around 'cuz mounting stainless nuts to stainless bolts can sometimes create some kind of molecular bond where the two metals seize together. (Go ask an engineer!)

With the bottom shell mounted to the frame I decided to coat all surfaces inside with epoxy paint. Makes everything look nice and clean, plus should give me a good surface to glue my insulation and flooring, etc. (You'll note the the paint does not go to the top edge. We still have to glass the bottom shell to the top at the belly joint...)

[Robert Johans]

Moving on to the install of some of the rough utilities.

First up, a Tekonsha Prodigy "RF" brake controller. This is cool 'cuz it's operated by a remote handheld device plugged into a CLA power port inside the TV. Which means that the remote can be moved to and from ANY TV without hard wiring each vehicle with a separate controller.

With the controller bolted to the front of the frame, I could then bring the 7-pin harness up through the floor in front and lock it down for connection to my DOT applications. I use two separate buss blocks, with one dedicated to all of the ground connections. The ground buss is tied directly to the frame. (I have a second redundant ground buss near the cabin's yet-to-come on-board electrical set-up in the rear, also tied to the frame.)

The inside DOT wiring has been secured to the floor and waits until the body and paint have been completed and the lights are installed.

[dylanear]

keeping the "cleat" technology to yourself Robert?

Can you comment if you think I'm on a possibly useful technique here?
http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/f...tml#post320234

Epoxy paint?? Is that a two part mix? Or a solvent based dries out of the can type thing? Because I want my plywood floor completely sealed and waterproofed. Not any of this "water resistant" stuff.

I find it amazing Scamp built this awesome moisture proof fiberglass trailer and put in a floor that starts to swell and disintegrate when it get's a glass of water spilled on it. How much would it have cost them to use marine plywood or to seal the top with a layer of glass or at least a coat of resin?? And they glued down open celled foam on top of that so any moisture is held to that cheap plywood for ages until it dries, no quick way of stopping moisture from soaking in?

I have a can of polyurethane sealer/coating, but I've been looking for a more serious epoxy like substance.

Awesome and inspiring work Robert, as always!!!

PS, the RF brake controller looks awesome! I trust CBs and mobile phones will not interfere?! I still haven't wired my brake controller in.

[Robert Johans]

The two-stage propane regulators required by law are ugly and sometimes vulnerable to road debris when attached at or near the front-loaded propane tanks. I prefer to mount mine to the frame, tucked up out of the way. A short connection redirects the gas up into the cabin for future distribution to my three gas appliances — tankless water heater, cooktop and space heater.

Though I like the 3-way Dometic refrigerators, I don't like the hassle of switching power sources, and I don't like the ugly intake and exhaust vents. So I'm going with an Engel AC/DC frig. I'll let you know if I live to regret this decision.

And though I also like the Olympia Wave3 cat heater, in reality I rarely use it. And engineering a custom "built-in" look is, well, complicated. So this time around I decided to simply keep the heater on its proprietary stand in a cabinet until needed. A quick-connect hose system will provide the gas.

(BTW, I hate to throw away old or superfluous hardware or fittings. I "re-purpose" all kinds of things to make a job cleaner. In this case, some plumbing fittings made for a tight pass-through for the copper propane line.)

[Robert Johans]

the photos...

[Robert Johans]

Speaking of re-purposing...

Bigger, more powerful water pumps are great for delivering good pressure to sink faucets and showers. But they can be very noisy, AND transmit vibration through the surface to which it is attached.

To help mitigate this problem, I glued some dense packing foam from a shipping box to a piece of scrap wood and slipped it under the pump for some added shock absorption.

[Robert Johans]

In your situation, Dylan, in order for the cleats to work, you need to cut away both the rat fur and insulation, then prep/clean the FG wall. Then it's a matter of slathering on the FG resin onto the wall and your block, sticking it in position and waiting for it to harden up.

The epoxy paint I use is a one-part product — the same tough stuff used to seal concrete floors in garages.

[dylanear]

Originally Posted by Robert Johans

In your situation, Dylan, in order for the cleats to work, you need to cut away both the rat fur and insulation, then prep/clean the FG wall. Then it's a matter of slathering on the FG resin onto the wall and your block, sticking it in position and waiting for it to harden up.

The epoxy paint I use is a one-part product — the same tough stuff used to seal concrete floors in garages.

Excellent, thanks. So you think those attach points I've made will hold as long as I get a good bond to the shell? I'm not ready to pull all my fur and reflectix down. So we shall see if I can get behind there with a small incision or if I'm just delusional.

I'll look for some of that Epoxy paint.

[Robert Johans]

Last item on this week's progress (and then I'll shut up already...):
gray water drain from the yet-to-be-installed galley sink...

Since I am not keen on creating holes in a freshly painted shell, I tried to pre-determine a good location for the sink drain. Turns out the best spot for me was through the floor, rather than the shell, just inside the front curbside corner apron. Easy enough to reach and out of the way, nice and tidy.

[Paul7]

This has been a great thread Robert! It just so happens that I'm a few steps behind you on my reno so this has helped immensely. Thanks

[Robert Johans]

Cool. Paul! I hope I've been a help... I'd love to hear more about your project.

Today we muscled the top shell onto the bottom, clamped it into alignment, and fiberglassed the "belly" seam on the inside. (Of course the shell was prepped to receive the new FG/resin combo.) You'll notice a band about 5" wide does the trick. The heavy-duty FG material is quite thick, almost an 1/8", so when thoroughly saturated, is super-strong when all cured.

[Robert Johans]

I'm very excited about the "frenched" taillight pots on this Boler. My body guy did a really nice job on them, as well as on the edges around my "built-in" hatch and covers. Obviously, these items take extra labor/time, but what am I gonna do?

[freddo411]

What do you call the connector that is handling the incoming 7-wire?
I can see a ground/common bus for the white wires, and there is a very tidy connector next to it for the green/brown/yellow/etc wire. What's that called?

Originally Posted by Robert Johans

Moving on to the install of some of the rough utilities.

First up, a Tekonsha Prodigy "RF" brake controller. This is cool 'cuz it's operated by a remote handheld device plugged into a CLA power port inside the TV. Which means that the remote can be moved to and from ANY TV without hard wiring each vehicle with a separate controller.

With the controller bolted to the front of the frame, I could then bring the 7-pin harness up through the floor in front and lock it down for connection to my DOT applications. I use two separate buss blocks, with one dedicated to all of the ground connections. The ground buss is tied directly to the frame. (I have a second redundant ground buss near the cabin's yet-to-come on-board electrical set-up in the rear, also tied to the frame.)

The inside DOT wiring has been secured to the floor and waits until the body and paint have been completed and the lights are installed.

[Robert Johans]

I refer to it as a buss block, but the labeling on a similar product calls it a connector block. I guess either is more descriptive than thingamajig.

[freddo411]

My current spaghetti nest of wire nuts was too ugly. I like the tidyness of your connections, and I think that it will come in handy to be able to undo things later.

I ended up ordering this thing-a-ma-jig:

"Screw Connector Electric Barrier Terminal Block"

Amazon.com: 600V 15A Dual Row 8P Screw Connector Electric Barrier Terminal Block: Car Electronics

[Robert Johans]

Electric barrier terminal block! That's what I meant to say!

[Jill_Schroeder]

I saw these photos and I am in shock and awe! I am just new to the fiberglass trailer world so of course I am scared, but I admire your drive! Wow!

[dylanear]

Originally Posted by Jill_Schroeder

I saw these photos and I am in shock and awe! I am just new to the fiberglass trailer world so of course I am scared, but I admire your drive! Wow!

Why are you scared? You should have no fear! There is no doubt this will turn out fantastic.

Or are YOU about to pull apart a trailer?

[dylanear]

Originally Posted by Robert Johans

I'm very excited about the "frenched" taillight pots on this Boler. My body guy did a really nice job on them, as well as on the edges around my "built-in" hatch and covers.

I love the details, can't wait to see it painted. What color/colors? Or is that a surprise?

Originally Posted by Robert Johans

Obviously, these items take extra labor/time, but what am I gonna do?

I'm finding much of the really cool stuff I want to/am doing to mine takes MUCH longer than I'd have guessed. Just hope it's worth it. (For me, I have no doubt it will be worth it for you.)

[Robert Johans]

Here are a couple of shots for those curious about mounting anchor blocks to the inside of a shell without drilling new holes.

With my interior plan drawn up with pretty tight dimensions, I have a very clear idea where my cabinetry will be placed, and subsequently, where my support "cleats" need to be placed.

I use an industrial automotive 2-part epoxy to "glue" 2x2x.75" plywood blocks to pre-determined points marked on the shell. This stuff dries hard in 90 seconds, so ya gotta work fast.

In order to mount cabinetry at 90° to the horizontal and vertical planes, some blocks have square edges, others are beveled in varying degrees to accommodate for the curvature of the shell body.