1974 boler restoration (start to finish) - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 03-18-2012, 11:33 AM   #15
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Name: Brayden
Trailer: Boler
Alberta
Posts: 144
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ann cody
Hi Brayden. Your amazing! Great work. I'm curious as to how you can put the cupboards back in, and rivet free. How do you make it rivet free. Something that I might want to do to ours. Hmmm.
To get rid of all the rivets
I cut a 1" line in the insolite between the cupboard and the fiberglass shell
Sand both the cupboard and the shell than clean it off.
Than I use a 3.5 min 2 part urethane glue
To glue both together.
Keep in mind you need to use a two part for it to be structurally sound as well. (carry weight)
The glue I use is the same glue they have in AUTOBODY shops to glue body panels together
It's from proform products
I have been using it for a long time and still love it
It's paintable and strong strong strong

I will be doing pictures of this when I get to that point
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Old 03-18-2012, 06:39 PM   #16
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Name: Brayden
Trailer: Boler
Alberta
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ok everyone another day done working on the boler.
i didn't get all i wanted done but what can you do there is always another day.
today i started on the two big holes in the boler where the vents were for the fridge.
as well as the front which had a large heat crack, and the back were the spare tire bracket was. the one on the back looked to be repaired before using some spot putty. (shrinks in large areas).
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Old 03-18-2012, 06:45 PM   #17
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Name: Brayden
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Alberta
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i first started out grinding the areas so when i glue back together it will have somthing to bond to not just the old paint.
than i took some old fiberglass form a broken closit and cut that to frame the large holes. i could have used fiberglass and resin to to it but this was alot faster and stronger nowing the fiberglass lasted this long lol. after gluing the peices in using the pf glue i sanded it down.
i also used the glue to repair the large crack by the weel well and anywhere else there was a good brake in the fiberglass.
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Old 03-18-2012, 06:53 PM   #18
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Name: Brayden
Trailer: Boler
Alberta
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after the urethane was dry and sanded i applied a two part fiberglass bondo to get most of the leveling done. here is a picture of the products i am using at this time. as you see the glue needs a specific gun that most bodyshop supply stores have. we sell them for $60 or have rent and return deal so im sure others would do the same
as for the fiberglass bondo its made by u-pol spreads and sands great (first time trying it).
o i also glued in the taillight pots so there wont be any rivits but i still need to fill those holes.
the last picture is of the inside of one of the big holes. the inside is not finished off yet i will be putting a nice bead of glue around the edge.
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Old 03-18-2012, 06:57 PM   #19
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Name: Brayden
Trailer: Boler
Alberta
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last thing i did today was taking off the water tank from underneath. i will be building another shelf for it later.
i also removed the two smaller windows. one form the door and the other in the kitchen area.
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Old 03-20-2012, 12:51 AM   #20
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Name: Peter
Trailer: 2013 Escape 17B
Vancouver Island
Posts: 12
Looking at your picture of the door, I see you have installed the 3 point hinges from Scamp. I took our door off our '73 Boler (Peace River model), and found that as well as the brass ball bearings there were two half bearings (one each hinge) stuck in there. I had never heard of that before...did yours have that? Of course I am trying to realign the door using the existing 2 point hinge, but so far not so good but at least the new brass balls slow the closure movement of the door down to a more manageable pace.
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Old 03-20-2012, 12:59 AM   #21
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Name: Peter
Trailer: 2013 Escape 17B
Vancouver Island
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I should add that I am currently also replacing the can door latch assembly with one I ordered from Vintage Trailer Supply on-line and find it is an exact duplicate of the original.
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Old 03-21-2012, 12:36 AM   #22
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Name: Joel
Trailer: 1981 Boler
Sarnia, Ontario
Posts: 190
siris,

where did u get a fantastic vent that doesnt hang 1.5" or so into the trailer, if u look at those vents the flange where it bolts to the roof is placed so high up the vent that they hang inside the trailer without adding a big ring onto the outside of the roof to compensate. most ppl seem to just add these not so good looking wooded trim rings onto the inside of the trialer to take up the difference. it not only loos bad but taller ppl hit theirs heads on it.

let me know, would really appreciate it

joel
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Old 03-22-2012, 05:12 PM   #23
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Name: Rick
Trailer: 1973 Bugeyed Boler
British Columbia
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Peter

I own a 1973 Peace River Boler. (GF795) I replaced the bolt and brass ball in the hinges. I did not have extra bearings in mine. I had to realign the door. Fill the existing bolt holes and move the door up. The existing bolt holes were worn oversize at the bottom. I also replaced the door handle. I found that the wood spacer inside the hollow door had rotted. I cut a slot inside the door, removed the existing wood and replaced it with new plywood. I used fiberglass resin to stick the new plywood in place. It worked very well. The door now lines up with the striker and the new handle works great. I also found when I removed the door it had water inside. They did not add drain holes from the factory. Two new 3/16" holes on the inside to drain any water that may enter through the window.
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Old 03-22-2012, 11:50 PM   #24
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Name: Brayden
Trailer: Boler
Alberta
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Quote:
Originally Posted by idiotsniff
siris,

where did u get a fantastic vent that doesnt hang 1.5" or so into the trailer, if u look at those vents the flange where it bolts to the roof is placed so high up the vent that they hang inside the trailer without adding a big ring onto the outside of the roof to compensate. most ppl seem to just add these not so good looking wooded trim rings onto the inside of the trialer to take up the difference. it not only loos bad but taller ppl hit theirs heads on it.

let me know, would really appreciate it

joel
I also make a ring of wood.
But mine is on the roof and I have the wood glued down and than i fiberglass the wood on an angle all around so it gives it a better appearance
Not to mention it will help strengthen the roof from cutting a big Hole in it .
I will post pictures when that is done as well
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Old 03-22-2012, 11:52 PM   #25
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Name: Brayden
Trailer: Boler
Alberta
Posts: 144
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Quote:
Originally Posted by peter
Looking at your picture of the door, I see you have installed the 3 point hinges from Scamp. I took our door off our '73 Boler (Peace River model), and found that as well as the brass ball bearings there were two half bearings (one each hinge) stuck in there. I had never heard of that before...did yours have that? Of course I am trying to realign the door using the existing 2 point hinge, but so far not so good but at least the new brass balls slow the closure movement of the door down to a more manageable pace.
The door and hinges came on it when I got the boler
I do have these same hinges to go back on but I fill all the holes and move the hinges closer to the middle.
I also use backing plates I make so the hinges are out farther to even the door.
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Old 03-27-2012, 03:33 AM   #26
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Name: Joel
Trailer: 1981 Boler
Sarnia, Ontario
Posts: 190
siris, thanks for the info on the fantastic vent
I asked about it because the picture of the vent on the outside of your boler i dont see that wood ring, the vent must just be sitting there not installed yet.

have another question for you, can u tell me if that crack above the road/drivers side of the trailers wheel well is in fact a crack? or is it just a scratch? im talking about the one running horizontally down the trailer about the same length as the wheel. i have a crack like this and have seen it on others.

I'm wondering if you know the cause of it? the crack on mine looks like something is pushing the body out from the inside, i just saw this on yours and thought u might know the cause if it is actually a crack on yours and not just a scratch?

anyways, appreciate your time.

joel
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Old 03-27-2012, 08:27 AM   #27
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Name: Brayden
Trailer: Boler
Alberta
Posts: 144
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Quote:
Originally Posted by idiotsniff
siris, thanks for the info on the fantastic vent
I asked about it because the picture of the vent on the outside of your boler i dont see that wood ring, the vent must just be sitting there not installed yet.

have another question for you, can u tell me if that crack above the road/drivers side of the trailers wheel well is in fact a crack? or is it just a scratch? im talking about the one running horizontally down the trailer about the same length as the wheel. i have a crack like this and have seen it on others.

I'm wondering if you know the cause of it? the crack on mine looks like something is pushing the body out from the inside, i just saw this on yours and thought u might know the cause if it is actually a crack on yours and not just a scratch?

anyways, appreciate your time.

joel
Joel that's not a problem I love helping people
It's y I'm posting

As for the stress crack on the side
It is caused from a lack of support from the frame

If you look at your frame it's esentualy
A square and it sits about a foot in, all around the boler

The most heavy places on the boler is the sides
And without support (because the frame is so far in) they sag down on the sides bending around the wheel well and cracking
Big boler flaw

To fix it you can 1 cover it up but It will keep going over time or 2 you can add support on ether side of the wheel well Attaching to the frame

That's y on most bolers you also see that crack on the top right of the doorway to
Hope this helps
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Old 03-27-2012, 10:53 PM   #28
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Name: Jude
Trailer: 1973 Honey Boler...
Alberta
Posts: 42
Quote:
Originally Posted by Siris View Post
To fix it you can 1 cover it up but It will keep going over time or 2 you can add support on ether side of the wheel well Attaching to the frame

That's y on most bolers you also see that crack on the top right of the doorway to
Hope this helps
I would love to see a picture of how you did this, what the mods looks like. I'm just about to rebuild my frame and I'd like to show the welder what you're describing.
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