1975 Boler Complete Restoration....my once in a lifetime project! - Page 4 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 11-21-2018, 12:37 PM   #43
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Name: Shannon
Trailer: 1975 13' Boler
British Columbia
Posts: 85
I made similar templates for the side windows and re-cut those...
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Side windows prepped for re-cutting for radius windows 1.jpg   Side windows prepped for re-cutting for radius windows 2.jpg  

Side window with radiused corners 1.jpg   Side window with radiused corners 2.jpg  

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Old 11-21-2018, 12:39 PM   #44
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Name: Shannon
Trailer: 1975 13' Boler
British Columbia
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Interior view of the new window cut outs....
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Interior view of radius corner windows 1.jpg   Interior view of radius corner windows 2.jpg  

Interior view of radius corner windows 3.jpg   Interior view of radius corner windows 4.jpg  

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Old 11-21-2018, 12:43 PM   #45
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Name: Rob
Trailer: boler & Acorn
British Columbia
Posts: 65
I like those windows.. and the Max vent is one of my favorites.. I'm going to fill in the small vent and center a proper 14 " one.

Keeping the 13 " wheels and have ordered baby moons. I lifted the axle 2" so the smaller size works. New tires of coarse.. I like those rims... You are modernizing you boler.. that's good.. I installed one of those electronic mini fridges in the Boler.. it struggled this summer in the 30+ heat. So I'm spending $$$ on a 12 v compressor truck fridge.
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Old 11-21-2018, 10:52 PM   #46
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Name: Shannon
Trailer: 1975 13' Boler
British Columbia
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Now to tackle the door. Not wanting to have future cracks in the body from stress from the door, I decided to build and attach a solid frame around the door. I made templates to fit the curves on the right and left sides then glued layers of baltic birch plywood cut to match the curve of the templates (router with a flush cutting template bit). Using Proform Pliogrip urethane structural adhesive and every clamp I owned, I glued one side and the top to the body of the trailer. Clamps off...it held!! Glued on the second side and I now have a very strong frame around this opening.
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Door template 1.jpg   Door template 2.jpg  

Clamp up part 1.jpg   Door frame complete.jpg  

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Old 11-21-2018, 11:22 PM   #47
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Name: Shannon
Trailer: 1975 13' Boler
British Columbia
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My original plan for attaching cabinets was to glue a number of blocks along the lay-out lines for the various cabinets. Since the angle of the walls is not consistent, I needed a way to determine the angle to make the face on the block either level or plumb. I hope the photos depict this adequately...
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Block angle jig 1.jpg   Block angle jig 2.jpg  

Measuring block angle.jpg   Block angle jig 3.jpg  

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Old 11-21-2018, 11:26 PM   #48
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Name: Shannon
Trailer: 1975 13' Boler
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Here's one of the blocks with a scored face to increase the surface area for the Pliogrip to adhere to...
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Block.jpg  
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Old 11-21-2018, 11:34 PM   #49
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Name: Shannon
Trailer: 1975 13' Boler
British Columbia
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After a lot of time determining the angles, cutting and preparing the blocks, they are all in place!
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Blocks in place 1.jpg   Blocks in place 2.jpg  

blocks in place 3.jpg  
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Old 11-21-2018, 11:35 PM   #50
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Name: Shannon
Trailer: 1975 13' Boler
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More pics...
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Blocks in place 4.jpg   Blocks in place 5.jpg  

Blocks in place 6.jpg  
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Old 11-21-2018, 11:45 PM   #51
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Name: Shannon
Trailer: 1975 13' Boler
British Columbia
Posts: 85
The plan was to adhere 1/2" polyethylene foam (recommended insulation from Escape Trailers) to the hull and then adhere a liner of some description to that foam. I found several choices for marine hull liners and got samples to check the appearance and test the adhesion to the foam. I was determined not to use a solvent based contact cement to adhere the foam and liner...just too stinky and awful! I tested the adhesion of the foam to the fibreglass and some of the liners to the foam using water based contact cement. They adhered but with enough force, could be pulled apart. Not super confident with this system but couldn't come up with any other solutions. A lot of cutting and fitting of foam and hull liner seemed to be in my future.
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Old 11-21-2018, 11:57 PM   #52
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Name: Shannon
Trailer: 1975 13' Boler
British Columbia
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After a bit of a break from the restoration I went back into Boler. To my dismay, I found that many of the blocks that I glued on were quite easily removed! I expect the small area of the blocks was inadequate to support against much force. Not wanting to fibreglass all of these blocks and not feeling very confident that the polyethylene foam or fabric were going to strongly adhere with the contact cement, it was time to go back to the drawing board! After further research into adhesives, here's what I came up with:
1) glue strips of 1/4" bendable plywood to the hull of the Boler with Sikaflex 252. The representative at Sikaflex assured me it would be more than strong enough for what I was doing
2) Glue 3 additional layers of 1/4" bendable plywood to the first layer using Titebond III and 23 gauge pin nails
3) Insulate with spray foam insulation between the 1" thick strips adhered to the interior
4) Use 3 mm bending plywood as panelling attached to the strips
5) Attach cabinets to the 1" thick strips
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Old 11-22-2018, 12:05 AM   #53
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Name: Shannon
Trailer: 1975 13' Boler
British Columbia
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The Sikaflex 252 was super strong!! As you can see, the plywood broke before the adhesive! Purchased my first 2 sheets of 1/4" bending plywood (super flexible!!). Ready to start...again. I knew there was lots of work ahead of me but I felt much more confident in the strength of the adhesive and knew that I would get better insulation with the spray foam. Adhering pieces of bending plywood wood as panelling would likely be no more work than cutting and gluing hull liner and would give me a great interior!
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Sikaflex 252 test.jpg   Bending plywood.jpg  

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Old 11-22-2018, 01:09 AM   #54
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Trailer: 2009 Escape 17B '08 RAV4 SPORT V6
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All I can say is "Wow".
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Old 11-22-2018, 08:40 AM   #55
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Name: Shannon
Trailer: 1975 13' Boler
British Columbia
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The Sikaflex rep that I spoke to was extremely helpful and advised me that the fibreglass should be prepped by giving it a rough sanding and then clean with warm water and a little bit of dish soap (non-scented to avoid oils). I did that and went as far as to spray the interior to rinse it off well. That led to an unhappy discovery....more on than later. The rep also said this adhesive works best leaving it as a bead at least 1/8th" thick (i.e. don't press the strips tight to the hull). I think one of the things I most enjoy in this project (and any project), is the problem solving that is required! In order to ensure that I left a 1/8" thick bead, I cut 3/8" wide spacers from 1/8" thick baltic birch plywood that I attached to the strips of bending ply spaced approximately 3" apart. I made the spacers slightly less long than the width of the plywood strips (1" or 1 1/2"). I had elaborate plans of making adjustable length braces to hold the first layer of strips in place. On further thought, this seemed slow and cumbersome! How to get the 1/8" spacers to stick to fibreglass...
I tried double sided tape....not strong enough. What about hot melt glue?! More than strong enough (in fact it sticks really well!!) but with a very short open time, i was limited to gluing 12" long strips. That was ok! The very repetitious process began...
1) Prep 12" long strips of bending ply by nailing spacers 3" apart with 3/8" 23 gauge pin nails (my poor pin nailer owes me no favours now )
2) Apply beads of Sikaflex 252 between the spacers (I didn't skimp on adhesive). I discovered that this adhesive is so thick that a special caulking gun was required. Even with that it was very hard work to use a manual gun. No way I could do the whole trailer with a manual gun! My new best friend...a Ryobi cordless caulking gun!! Set on a very slow speed it worked awesomely!!
3) Apply hot glue to the 4 spacers per strip and very quickly press it into place pressing the spacers tight to the hull. The strips adhered very well and followed the curves of the trailer beautifully
4) Repeat over and over and over....
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Old 11-22-2018, 08:51 AM   #56
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Name: Shannon
Trailer: 1975 13' Boler
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I started with the windows. I first applied the corner pieces then filled in with straight strips between...
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Windows 2.jpg   Windows 1.jpg  

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