1975 Boler Complete Restoration....my once in a lifetime project!

[Shanos]

Just a quick update! At last, the weather is warming up here and I can get back to my project! I glued in the first panel yesterday at it went quite well except for a small crack where the radius was quite tight. It will be hidden in a cabinet and can be made nearly invisible with some epoxy putty! I used PL Premium along the strips with 1/16" spacers approximately 8 - 10" intervals to leave a little gap between the strips on the trailer and the back of the panel (I wanted to avoid completely squeezing the adhesive out). The little blocks are small clamping pads which will be removed after the PL Premium has cured. I used Titebond III to glue the panel around the window. I'll use a router to flush trim the panel to the window after I remove the clamps.

[Shanos]

Also, I got my door back from the fellow that fibreglassed it for me. He did a great job (Chris at wetworksglassing.com)!! Doesn't look much different in this photo but it's completely waterproof now and glassy smooth!

[Shanos]

And lastly....I've decided to have a new frame built for my Boler. I had a few modifications in mind for the existing one but got to thinking that "while I'm at it"... Now is the time!! I've posted an ad in the classified section to sell the old frame with the relatively new 2000 lb Dexter axle for anyone that might be interested.

[Dan-NS27]

Your project is looking good. Nice the door came out well.

I've been looking at replacing the frame for my burro. Been deciding between the Dexter and Flexiride axles. Both look pretty good.

[blueruby]

Your efforts are amazing!!! Looking forward to your continued success in restoring your vision for this one of a kind trailer!

Bruce

[Shanos]

Thanks Bruce and Daniel! I looked at both brands of torsion axles and will go with the Flexiride. The deciding factors for me were the ability to adjust the height of each individual arm considering that the trailer may be heavier on one side and that it will only take 1 week to get the Flexiride axle...4 - 6 weeks for the Dexter. Will be starting the frame next week so will need the axle ASAP.

[Dan-NS27]

Originally Posted by Shanos

Thanks Bruce and Daniel! I looked at both brands of torsion axles and will go with the Flexiride. The deciding factors for me were the ability to adjust the height of each individual arm considering that the trailer may be heavier on one side and that it will only take 1 week to get the Flexiride axle...4 - 6 weeks for the Dexter. Will be starting the frame next week so will need the axle ASAP.

Didn't realize it'll take a week to get the Flexiride. Getting it at the Southwest Wheel place?

[Shanos]

I'm in British Columbia...getting it at a local shop that supplies springs and axles

[Dan-NS27]

Ah, ok.

Still, I need to get measurements of my burro frame soon so I can find a welder to make me a new frame. Thanks to threads like yours, I'm getting some good ideas to work on my camper.

[Shanos]

Onwards...
The new frame for my Boler is now complete! Took about a month from start to finish, cost more than I was anticipating (or hoping ) but I'm really pleased with the finished product!! Now I have complete confidence that all of the effort I'm putting into the body is matched by a solid frame! I purchased a new 2000 lb Flexiride axle with electric brakes. The plan by Ian Giles from Proud Canadian website was a very useful guide but measuring and checking from my own Boler was critical since the measurements from Ian's plan did not match my particular trailer.

[Shanos]

Sandblasted!....

[Shanos]

Finished frame! Decided to have it hot dipped galvanized which turned out very well and was quite reasonably priced. Should be very durable. Still have to have a bumper made and will get a box made for the tongue to store batteries and a propane tank. The tongue ended up being about 4 1/2' long so there will be lots of room!

[Tenneille M.]

Awesome rebuild and very helpful to have these photos showing progress. . How did you go about getting the trailer certified? Just take in for an inspection? How did you cap off the rails at the back? In the photo they are open.

[Shanos]

Hi Tenneille,
Thank you Glad you're finding the photos helpful. I have gotten many great ideas from this forum as well!!
The trailer has not been certified. I'll look into that process once it's getting closer to being finished. I see you're in British Columbia...if you find out any information on that, would you mind sharing?
The open rails at the back are there for a bolt on bumper that will be built. The new curved bumper will have tabs that slide into those rails and will be bolted to be secured.

[FRED SMAILES]

Been hoping to see pics of any progress,,, ?
Fred

[Shanos]

Hi Fred,
Yes, there has been lots of progress but it just seems like lots of the same to me (cut, fit, prep, install panels...repeat) Trailer is now bolted back onto the frame, about 2/3 of the paneling done on the inside, an arduous door installation (getting the hinges to work when installing on two opposite angled surfaces required some head-scratching solutions...more on that in another post very soon) and lots of details to be done before handing it off to a body shop for prep and painting near the end of July. Very exciting!! I'll post some pictures in the next week

[Shanos]

Very pivotal point in this renovation reached yesterday!!! I towed my Boler to Mike's Quality Bodyworks in Mapleridge, B.C. for body prep and painting!! There was a LOT of work to finish before paint...as much of the paneling on the inside as possible as well as all the other details that needed to be complete before paint (hang the door, drill all through holes, cut plexiglass windows etc). Finishing and hanging the door was very challenging! My biggest mistake (but I didn't know any better) was not supporting the roof of the Boler after removing the interior components and door. As a result, the "egg" flattened, especially around the door (very noticeable when comparing pictures of the original trailer shape to the current). The offshoot of this was discovered after the first door hanging attempt...the angles of the pins/bolts of the top and bottom hinges were opposite of each other resulting in the door binding as it was opened. The door needs to pivot on two pins that line up vertically with each other. The solution....wedges under the hinges. I used a small torpedo level taped to a bolt to find how much angle was required to have the bolt sit plumb. I then made test wedges for each of the hinge components and did my second fitting...success!

[Shanos]

The second challenge with the door was discovering that once it was hung, it was not sitting flat against the door frame...the top hit first and the bottom was sitting out about an inch! Not a good situation for keeping water out!! Fortunately, I hadn't yet put the 1/8" plywood on the inside of the door. Solution...with the door sitting inside face up on my work bench, block/clamp the hinge-side exactly as it was sitting and then move the top of the door out and push the bottom of the door in on the latch-side enough to have it sit flush to the outside of the trailer (measured while the door was sitting on the trailer). I then blocked/clamped it in the new shape and screwed a piece of 1/8" plywood on the inside face to hold the new shape. Success with the test fit!! Tweaked it a little, then committed with glueing a piece of 1/8" plywood to the inside face. A little more tweaking of the hinges to get an even reveal all the way around. The body shop guys will do any other fine tuning to get a great fit with gasket in place. I want to make sure no water will be getting in around the door!!

[Shanos]

Here are some before pictures inside and out! The body shop will also do some filling and faring to the paneling on the inside of the trailer...they are the experts and it's one of those times where that is money well spent.

[Shanos]

Exterior...