1976 scamp restoration - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 11-15-2009, 07:37 PM   #15
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Name: Dan
Trailer: 1976 Scamp 13 ft "Siesta"
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I ordered a pair of "T Marine 13X17 hatches" a couple of weeks ago, and plan to follow Peters great example on how to install. I received them last week and put them against the trailer and paper template I had made. They looked to small and I measured them and they were only 11X15. I looked at the box and it also measured 11X15, but was marked as 13X17 (this is printed on the box from the factory). I called up "A base boat store" and they said they would send me the correct ones at no shipping charge. I called back 4 days latter to check on the status and was told that their entire stock was miss marked from the factory and they would be getting in new stock last friday. Really nice people to work with.

Below is a picture my wife took of me while working on the trailer. I said the caption should be "Would you let your daughter go out on a date with someone like this".
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Old 11-15-2009, 09:03 PM   #16
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Trailer: 1974 Boler 13 ft (Neonex/Winnipeg)
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Classic shot! You might as well get a boat too now
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Old 11-24-2009, 07:07 PM   #17
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Well, my back hurts and I'm very tired, but very happy. Over the last week I've faired out the shell, thanks to raya's fairing tip, the top skylight hole matches the contours of the top. I filled in over a hundred holes with PC11 and figured a way for the lower black trim around the bottom to stay on. It was originally riveted, but I took some of the PC11 and made a fillet every 12" on the back side of the bottom fiberglass that will grab the inside hook of the black trim. It is about an 1/8" wide and 3/8" high. I tried it after it dried, and it seems to works well holding the trim on tight.

Today I got the shell put on the frame and it fits through the garage door with 3/8" clearance, this is without it loaded up. I first put the shell on to drill all new screw holes, lifted the shell back up and put in a bead of "PL concrete and masonry sealant". A friend that does wooden boats told me about this product and PL construction adhesive. Apparently a lot of boat builders us the adhesive, and the concrete stuff works great on wood and metal with a seal that stays rubbery and lasts in a water environment, home depot had it. Bringing the shell down the second time had one of the 2X4 blocks slip of a jack and the trailer fell 1 1/2" to the jack stand, no big deal but it scared me half to death, and now I know that the shell bounces. After screwing it all together I pushed it out the door, all my measuring and re-measuring for the axel and tires payed off. With the trailer fully loaded, it should go down another 1" or so.

After cleaning the garage, I realized I forgot the door since it was removed long ago and stored. I did a quick dry test and it fits top to bottom, yea. So now, it's work on the door tomorrow.

A quick question, I was going to change the position of the door hinges and move them down 3" to get into new fiberglass, will this cause problems? I could reuse the newly filled holes, but the other owners had put 3 different locations of holes to adjust the door.



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Old 11-24-2009, 07:28 PM   #18
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Trailer: 1974 Boler 13 ft (Neonex/Winnipeg)
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Hi Danny,

Good on you for all the work you've accomplished so far Epoxy can be kind of fun once you thicken it and make it do things, can't it

I can't say for sure whether you can move your hinges or not, but what I have noticed is that some of the Boler 13s shifted hinge locations between the early and late 70s. They went from being highest and lowest to the top being not so high and the bottom one being not so low (at least on some trailers).

I think I may know at least on of the reasons for this: On the earlier Bolers, ones with the horizontal, Hehr brand crank out window (square edges with an oval looking inside part), I had noticed that many of the window frames looked a bit "chewed up" on the lower, front corner. Huh

Well, I found out why: Just try opening the door with that window partially opened. Yep, it catches on the top door hinge. So I'm thinking maybe they then decided to move it down a little. Then, I have the feeling that the upper and lower hinges have to kind of "match" as far as where they are in "in/out" orientation (in other words, a theoretical vertical pin should go through both hinges in the same place), so they had to raise the lower one the same amount they lowered the upper one, is what I'm thinking.

So, there is precedent for the hinges in a few different locations; but there may be something to having them both "match" in their location (vis-a-vis the theoretical vertical pin). I don't know that for sure; just guessing on that one.

Here is an example of the older hinge spacing. You can see how the window and hinge could interfere with each other:


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And here is an example of the (sometimes) later hinge spacing. Now there can't be a collision with the open window. You can also see how the lower hinge has moved up, possibly because of the "pin" alignment issue (?)


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Again, congrats on what you've done so far!

You know, now that you are good at working with epoxy, you might consider not making all the new rivet holes (assuming those are some of the ones you filled in), but instead tabbing the furniture in on the inside, with fiberglass tape and epoxy resin. Stronger and cannot leak, plus no rivets to see or to need to maintain.

Raya
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Old 11-24-2009, 10:42 PM   #19
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Raya, thanks for the information on the door hinges. I have a small crank out window in the door like the one on your photo, and it also has an edge that was chewed up a little, now I know why. I think I will also move the hinge down a little. I'm ahead of you in putting the tabs in, I was going to do this fron the start. The only holes I should have after restoration is around windows, exterior lights and a couple of other minor things. Now I need to start looking at how to build the inside cabinetts.
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Old 11-24-2009, 11:14 PM   #20
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Danny,

You are a step ahead! Sounds like you're doing a first class job

I sure wouldn't mind seeing more photos, if you have the time

I plan to tab my cabinets in whenever I decide to work on the trailer (no rush as it's doing fine now, but when the time comes.....)

Raya
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Old 12-07-2009, 03:56 PM   #21
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Danny,
How's it going?

Can you describe the steps necessary to remove the shell from the frame on your Scamp? Thanks.

RJ
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Old 07-29-2010, 04:39 PM   #22
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Have the paint done!

I have the paint finally done. I ended up with 2 coats of primer and 4 coats of finished. I'm going to give it a week to fully cure before I start on the inside lineing. The one thing I thought about was if I wanted a slight orange peel look to the paint from the undercoat, and decided I liked (and my wife) the effect. It hid a lot of little problem areas that would show up if it was shinny smooth. I also painted in a nice 3 inch red stripe above the middle joint, as it does not interfere with any vents or holes (it was easy to do). Here are a couple of shots.
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