1976 Trillium 1300 Remodel - For Caitlin - Page 3 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 01-21-2015, 08:00 AM   #29
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Things are moving along....slowly.

The trailer is cleaned and stripped of everything. I have had the roof supports made, and will be installing them, then pulling the body off the frame.

Glass repairs have begun. Once that is done, it will be painted, and all put back together again.....slowly!

We share progress photos as I go.
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Old 01-26-2015, 06:32 PM   #30
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Selling

if you do not sell your trailer befor the spring , Please call me and I will come down from Thunder Bay and buy it . Jim Rayner .
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Old 01-26-2015, 07:23 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jvrayner View Post
if you do not sell your trailer befor the spring , Please call me and I will come down from Thunder Bay and buy it . Jim Rayner .
After all the work put into this trailer, it will definitely not be for sale. It is a wedding present for my daughter, Caitlin.
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Old 01-27-2015, 09:09 PM   #32
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Smile sorry

Not good on computers , sent to wrong person
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Old 03-05-2015, 05:41 PM   #33
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It has been a while, just about time for an update. The work has continued, albeit quite slowly.

This is a closer shot of the custom bike rack a previous owner had built. It was kinda cool the way they built the arms to extend past the spare tire mount (you can see the whole thing in a photo above). Originally, I was going to fix it and save it, as my daughter wants the capacity to carry bikes, but I decided to instead rebuild just the tire mount, ensuring it was nice and strong, and she can use a tire mounted bike rack when needed.




As though i didn't have enough to do, I decided I would get rid of the belly band, and glass the center band where the two halves came together, and give it a nice smooth look. Here is a shot with the trim removed. On the right, you can see the grunge that was under the trim.



I used a hand grinder to gouge out the center, giving me a place to do the fibreglass repairs, and to remove the clips that were installed on the inside of the joint. I set up my dust collector to suck up most of the huge volume of dust I treated. In dome places between the clips, I ended up grinding right through the thin glass the manufacturer put on when joining the two haves.




I then taped off the edges, and installed a band of fibreglass cloth, for strength, and to give the next coats of fibreglass matt some backing where I ground through.



I then laid two layers of heavy fibreglass matt down (all done with polyester resin). The first was the full width of the joint, and the second about 1/2" narrower. I pulled the tape before the resin set, and trimmed up the edges with a sharp knife. Once this set, I used Bondo Fibreglass Filler, which is a polyester resin filler with fibreglass strands in it, to bring the band roughly to flush. As it started to set firm, I used a sharp 1 1/2" wood chisel, to pare off any high spots, to save lots of sanding later. This worked like a charm, slicing through the near firm resin and fibres like butter.

In this photo, you can see the glassed joint on the right, and the filler added on the left.

After the filler completely set, I sanded it down with a sanding block and 80 grit paper until there were no high spots.



I then used an Interlux epoxy filler, to fill in all the depressions. You can see here I coated the entire band with a thin coat.



I then sanded this smooth with the sanding blocks, and reapplied in the low spots. Wherever there had been a backing clip, there was a good sized divot. As you can see on this photo of it sanded out, there are a few new patches of filler on these low spots. I actually did this process once more.



I looks pretty darn nice now. After priming, I will check once again for little imperfections.
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Old 03-05-2015, 05:53 PM   #34
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Looking good Jim. Where did you buy your Fiberglass supplies?
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Old 03-05-2015, 06:04 PM   #35
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I also glassed over the access ports for the city water, gravity water fill, grey waste water, and electrical, as the new ones I am installing are a different size, and will be in different locations.

I first ground out the 3 1/2" holes from a thin edge, tapered to flush with the hull about 1 1/2" out from the hole. This was done to accommodate successive layers of glass matt to be built up, covering the hole.





I first glassed a layer of fibreglass cloth on the inside of the hull to act as a backer. Here is a shot of the pieces I used.



Here is a shot for the outside showing the backer in place. I used a light inside to highlight it, as it is quite clear and hard to see.



I then cut out circles of matt for the glassing, with the first the full size of the ground out area, then the next successively smaller. I actually added a fourth layer to build the height up.



Here are photos of the glasswork, before sanding.





I then used the Bondo filler, and Interlux filler on top of that to bring it flush. Here is a shot of a near complete one, just a bit more sanding. These patches I will check again to see if any more spots need a bit of filler, after the primer is on.

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Old 03-05-2015, 06:06 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Clayton View Post
Looking good Jim. Where did you buy your Fiberglass supplies?
The glass and resin from Industrial Plastics & Paint, and the Bondo filler from Princess Auto.
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Old 03-05-2015, 06:20 PM   #37
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Old 03-05-2015, 06:24 PM   #38
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Not busy enough though.
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Old 03-05-2015, 06:47 PM   #39
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Another thing I have done, is to provide support for the sunken part of the roof on the drivers side. The roof sunk down over an inch, most likely due to snow load over its many winters outside.

Originally, I had thought to bring support down the the lower part of the galley, but as that fibreglass is quite thin, I instead opted to take the support right down to the floor, directly over the frame. I used a two piece system.

I rounded over the edges of a 2x4 so it wouldn't damage the ensolite to use as a temporary roof support, and slowly over a couple days, lifted the roof until it was to where I wanted it.



Here is a photo of the supports in place. I wanted them in before starting to prep for the exterior paint, as I wanted the roof held in its final resting spot while I did that. The tabs you see against the upper cabinets hold the top stable.



And here is a shot of the top end supporting the roof. The steel is 1/4" thick, so will not bend with the minimal weight on it.I am contemplating putting some kind of trim around this top piece, but we'll see.



I used 1/4" bolts through the shell of the galley, with the lower part hidden from sight. This is the view from the inside.



And the view from the outside.

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Old 03-05-2015, 06:52 PM   #40
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My daughter and her fiancé (in a typical pose) in the trailer. Caitlin has been doing lots of cleaning of the 39 years of grunge that was allowed to collect.



I cleaned and sprayed the stovetop with a white heat resistant paint. Not sure if I will use it now, as I am planning to do a whole new countertop, and may upgrade the sink and stove.

http://bearleealive.smugmug.com/Proj...MG_0005-XL.jpg
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Old 03-05-2015, 06:54 PM   #41
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I am impressed Jim.

It is a bit late now, but I found that cutting the metal tabs in half, with a Dremel, made it possible to pull them out with out it being necessary to grind the glass to expose them.

Grinding through the bandage that connects the top half to the bottom half is unavoidable.
My Second Belly Band Thread
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Old 03-05-2015, 07:01 PM   #42
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Another thing I have been doing, is grinding out the worst cracks. Most are just in the gelcoat, but a few from the sunken roof, projected slightly into the fibreglass to. I gouged them out to about half the thickness of the shell. This is where they are at right now, but I plan to use the Bondo Fiberglass Filler, which I am real impressed with, to fill and fair.

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